Does anybody know what type of circuit my 97 honda civic uses for the power door locks?
1.) Polarity Reversing - Negative Switch / Trigger A
2.) Polarity Reversing - Negative Switch / Trigger B
OR 3.) Polartity Reversing - Positive Switch / Trigger
Any help would be appreciated.

 

It just needs a negative pulse to the Green/White wire in the blue plug in the drivers kick, and a negative pulse to the Green/Orange at the same location to unlock.

Note: Both of those wires can also be found in the green plug behind the radio (if you don't currently have the factory alarm installed, the green plug will be taped back to the radio harness)

 

I don't have a switch, just a drivers door lock actuator. I know both the wht/red and the yel/red from the actuator are Negative pulse inputs to the actuator, lock and unlock respectively. I guess it doesn't matter what type. Thanks anyways though !!

 

... is the actuator factory or after market? 96-98 civic are dead simple. If you don't have a switch then I'm guessing you've added your own actuator... I can't say in all the years I've done 96-98 Civics I've come across one without a switch and/or one that doesn't have the alarm harness strapped behind the radio you could tag. Heck even the info above I gave you is right from Directed Electronics (From their DirectWire)

If you *really have to* tag it at the actuator, just see what voltage the wires rest at. If they sit at +12, then you need to do a "5-wire" setup where the wire to the motor connects to pin 30, the other side of the motor wire (the side away from the motor) connects to 87A, and you'd connect ground to 87. Then you connect your coil pins (85 and 86) to whatever will work with your alarm/remote start (IE> if you have negative lock outputs then you'd use a +12 feed to 85 and your alarm's wire to 86).

You do the same for both sides of the motor. You may have to switch your lock and unlock feeds from the alarm/remote start as you may drive the wrong side of the motor for the function you want.

What this does is allow one side of the motor to stay at +12, but breaks the +12 feed to the other side and instead feeds a ground. You can't just feed it a ground without breaking the wire or you'll short it out.

Edit> It's always a good idea to stick a 10 or 20 amp fuse inline with the wires going to pin 87 of both relays (they'll be a common ground or common +12 feed). Reason is in case you tag the wrong side of the wire feeding the motor you'll blow the fuse and not something else in the car

If the wires sit at around, it's the same as above but connect pin 87 to +12 instead of ground.

 

I paid a shop $15 to rewire it so it works now. I have a DX that I put a factory actuator on the drivers door only. Only using lock / unlock functions. Haven't installed it in the car yet though. I'm using a Viper 211HV remote which comes with the shittiest instructions and NO tech Support except for dealers. Thanks for trying to help.

 

http://www.directeddealers.com/manua...412V_01-05.pdf 94

 

ahh ok that make a lot more sense now.. And it would have been an easy wiring job for you to do. Just let us know on the next one you're installing the actuator and we'll be able to tell you which wires where next time

 

more testimate to the shittiest instructions.

the say that the module 211hv can power the actuators directly. built in relays.

 

So, what? Your saying it can't??? 94