99 GSR ( B18c1 ) 100k miles
70mm TB
Stage 5 competition clutch
Cometic 3 layer headgasket
ARP headstuds
A.R 50 trim turbo t3/t4
38mm Tial wastegate
HKS BOV
750cc injectors
Walboro 255 fuel pump
Treadstone intercooler kit
3" Catless exhaust

What hp range would i be safe at? What additions can i make without building the engine to increase power?

 

with your question worded that way, on this forum, your answer will be "leave stock", you need to be more specific if you dont want to be flamed

 

How much hp before stuff goes wrong?

 

There is no answer to your question.

You mean how much can a stock block handle? Quite a bit.

 

If anything I would invest some money on the head a little more. The block will probably be able to take the abuse quite well. Get some high performance double valve springs I forgot what tuners call them. LOL Not flaming. They are meant to reduce valve float if you rev your engine too high and will prevent your piston from making any undesired contact with them.

Other than that, regular maintenance. Since you are running Turbo, change your oil often, this time every 3000-4000 miles. I would go for regular high performance oil something that is pretty thick like a 20W-40. Periodically check your turbo too. Inspect the compressor blades and the turbine wheels for excessive oil. You will need to clean the turbo if it gets too dirty. Then later on invest in a turbo timer, it will help improve the life of your turbo by letting it cool down.

I do not own a turbo car, this is just knowledge I have at the top of my head.

 

Tuning will save you 90% of the time.

Stock Gsr with 10lbs of boost. You're probably at maybe 300whp.
Only thing you'll need to get is bigger injectors and an EMS and maybe some other minor ****.

I know people who have run 10psi on stock z6 motors. Running 12.6 with drag radials.

 

300whp?! At 10psi? Are you positive?

For someone like me who has gone through some of the physics involved with "horse power" the amount of power you actually make at the wheels varies by a lot of factors.

First of all there is the friction coefficient the engine must over come, then there is the amount of force required to turn all the components(inertia). Then there is the force required to move the car forward. At a dyno the power predicted is only static and not dynamic. For dynamic power air resistance plays another role in creating drag, another force your vehicle must overcome. All this leads to lower horse power ratings and then there are a dozen different ways to measure horse power! LOL

I do not want to flame anyone, but what I would be concerned more with is the amount of torque the engine can produce. Torque determines the amount of mass or weight it can move per feet over time. HP just refers to the work it can produce.

 

If not 300, its fairly close.

 

I somehow doubt anywhere near 300hp.

There is a lot of technicality involved when determining HP.

For starters compression and combustion: You need to know the correct amount of fuel to be mixed to the correct amount of air. The stoichiometric combustion is 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel which is considered perfect or ideal combustion. Compression increases the amount of power released from combustion. Every type of fuel has a specific self ignition point. For every pound per square inch that you increase the compression, temperature goes up 3 degrees(Fahrenheit). At 10 psi, you would have increased the combustion temperature by 30 degrees Fahrenheit. The stock compression without the forced induction also increases the temperature. Typically on Honda B-Series motors compression in the cylinders is around 160-175 psi. Now multiply that by 3 and you get around 500 degrees Fahrenheit just from the engine's compression. Regular gasoline will ignite around that temperature. You are adding 30 degrees to the compression temperature which is at or after gasoline has self ignited. You need to be careful, this is where you get pinging and detonation.

Ignition Timing: This is where things get complicated.. You see you need to ignite the fuel before the compression actually reaches its max. This is where degrees, valve timing and ignition timing come into play. Both the Intake and the Exhaust valves remained closed for around 100+ degrees of crankshaft rotation. During that time is when the mixture is compressed. Typical ignition timing is 8 degrees to 10 degrees before TDC. This advanced spark reduces the compression or the self ignition point of the gasoline.

Now as the compression goes up the amount of power produced by combustion goes up too. But you do not want to go to high as there are peaks or limits to this.

The formula for compression ratio is this: Volume in cylinder at BDC(Bottom Dead Center) ÷ Volume in cylinder at TDC. This is where you get your 9:1.0 ratios etc

Volume formula of a cylinder is: πr²h (pi x radius of cylinder squared x the height of cylinder).

This is why typically it is advised to lower your compression by reducing your stroke to compensate or reduce the temperature inside the engine. Detonation will destroy your engine if you are not careful with it. Also it would be wise to run higher than normal octane or advance your spark timing. Honda motors with variable valve timing should be run with 91 octane, because they run hot. Heat or residual heat is something else that is relative to pressure as said before for every PSI of air, temperature goes up 3 degrees, the same can be said backwards, for every 3 degrees of temperature increase, pressure increases by 1. Also this is why a lot of people who want power do not have AC or powersteering. They lower the amount of inertia or friction the engine needs to overcome to power the wheels.

There is a lot of math involved when figuring all this out which only tells you the kinetic energy an engine has per cylinder or in all cylinders. Again you have to take into account friction from moving parts(piston pin friction, crankshaft main and rod journal friction, piston skirt to cylinder wall friction, weight of rods, piston heads, pins, and counter weights, inertia needed to rotate the flywheel, flywheel to flexplate/clutch plate friction, inertia to rotate transmission gears, transmission gear friction, then there is the friction and inertia needed to turn the differential, axles and finally your tires or wheels. Also accessories need to be turned and boy there is just tons of stuff I can name.) and inertia which all reduce the total power you put out at the wheels.

There are tons of factors involved. I would not truly rest on a dyno to tell me power as it doesn't even take into consideration the inertia the entire powertrain must overcome to move the vehicle forward, air resistance, the coefficient of friction the tires must overcome. This is why you should only ever truly trust torque.

Finally here is some advice I would recommend as I am in this field. Boosting decreases engine vacuum while you are stuck with turbo lag or as the turbo spools. This is something a lot of people over see, but power braking on most Hondas is done with a vacuum booster using engine vacuum(venturi/intake manifold vacuum). The booster works on the principles of pressure difference to multiply braking power by allowing air pressure which is coincidentally 14.7 psi at sea level or at 68 degrees Fahrenheit to push against a diaphragm where there is a vacuum on the opposite side. Braking power is multiplied by the surface area of the diaphragm in square inches minus the difference in vacuum. This tells you the amount of pressure the booster will produce. Since your vacuum decreases with forced induction, I would recommend at looking at either switching to a hydroboost system, or using a mechanical vacuum pump(which diesels use) to create the vacuum needed by the booster. The last thing you want going through your mind as your are speeding past 120 mph is to say why aren't my brakes working and then you loose control and well we all know how that ends.

Okay, I am severely tired and sleepy and have to go to work in a bit. Haha it was fun to waste time here.

 

Feels like you copy and pasted it. I've read this somewhere before. But whatever 300whp for a boosted stock gsr is not hard at all.



For example this setup made 360whp at 13psi. 3 psi will not drop you 60whp.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsKzaJdl02k

Like stated above, tuning is key.

 

LOL I do? Haha, its probably because I learned this in class. All automotive classes that are Natef and ASE certified use the same books. I just translated what I learned from theory, outside bench and lab work. I just love the technical things involved with cars. Haha There is lots of ways if you do things right to have your cake and eat it too.

For example if you know fuel trim to boost and compression ratios you can go a long way into fine tuning your car. I am not saying I do not believe you I just have some old friends who were boosting 12-15 psi and barely made 300-320 hp according to them. They took their cars to get tuned and have everything professionally installed.

As for me, I plan on putting some of my physics knowledge to use and see how much more finer I can possibly tune the car in the future once the money rolls in.

Here is a question though, sensory inputs? I have not witnessed how the "flashing" or "chipping" works, but do they correct and adjust all the fuel tables according to boost increases? The reason I am asking is because I see and hear a lot of people talking about removing the catalytic converter and making their entire exhaust system straight pipe along with placing several things that throw sensors off. There is an oxygen sensor that works in conjunction with with fuel delivery at the exhaust. It tells the engine if it is running to lean or too rich. When your remove it, the ECM or computer stops receiving that input so it corrects the missing signal by using a base input from its tables. Is that corrected when tunning?

 

Correct it is corrected when tuning.

 

10psi on one turbo will not net you the same power on another turbo. A gt35r at 10psi will give you a lot more power than a t3o4 at 10psi. From there your power will be limited by your tune and engine health. I don't know much about the b series but I have a turbo k and have done a lot of research on it and 300whp on a k is cake. From what I hear about a b series, 300whp should not be the engine's physical limitation.