Changed HeadGasket, having issues
changed my head gasket..and oil seeping out from between the block and head, i didn't have time to surface my head...should i take it to go get surfaced, and i also didn't buy new head bolts..do i need to get some of those too??...also ever since i changed the head gasket its been bogging like crazy if i have more than just me in the car..can anyone help me out??
Sounds like you didn't get a good seal when you changed it. Did you check if the block/head were warped?
Sometimes the head bolts can stretch which could be the reason you aren't getting a proper seal. Did you torque them to spec using the proper tightening pattern?
The bogging is most likely because you don't have a proper seal and therefore are loosing compression/power.
Sometimes the head bolts can stretch which could be the reason you aren't getting a proper seal. Did you torque them to spec using the proper tightening pattern?
The bogging is most likely because you don't have a proper seal and therefore are loosing compression/power.
yeah i went by the pattern, i didn't re-torque after it ran for awhile, got a compression test done and the shop said it was 160lbs+...but it only acts up with a passenger..its wierd..it didn't over heat when the head gasket blew, so i figured the bolts didn't stretch..idk..its getting irritating, loss of torque, smokes, bogs..then randomly clears up when the passenger shifts weight, then goes back to acting up..idk =[ i don't wanna get rid of it
Sounds like it didn't seal rite and for the bogging down could be a tooth off on timing or u said it only does it with a passenger? My d15b2 is doing the same thing and I can't figure it out just replaced headgasket and water pump and it idels perfect but when u punch it th the floor it Boggs down but I believe it's only a tps sensor I'd try to re torq the head bolts when I reuse stock head bolts I always go a couple lbs over
kk thanks, i was thinking it may be out of time..sun started going down and i was working on it outside, was lacking light at the end..im gonna try to retorque it just gotta find my torque wrench and retime it..if that don't fix it..ill take it to get surfaced and do i need a new head gasket? if so what kind should i get? and do i have to take the valves out when i take it to get surfaced?
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Remove the head. Send it to a shop to get decked. Buy a good quality head gasket. Buy new head bolts as Honda revised the bolt design. Make sure you replace the O ring for the oil jet. Make sure your dowel pins are in the correct places in the block. Tighten bolts down with a good torque wrench. Go 55 lbs. Make sure when you attach the timing belt that you tension it properly - too much tension on the waterpump side will cause premature pump failure..
there isn't any certian way to bolt the dizzy on is there? cause i just bolted it up..it was getting dark and no light, and had to be at work in the morning, i don't have another car or can afford to take off to get my head surfaced, should i check the maps and tps?..idk it ran perfect before i changed the head gasket
Did you make sure to use a vacuum or air compressor to get all of the coolant and oil out of the holes for the head bolts before putting it back together? My friend and I made this mistake the first time changing a head gasket and the bolts were not able to torque down properly.
nope, didn't do that..honestly i didn't take the intake off, i just unbolted, tilted on its side, cleaned the block and bottom of the head, put some tempature sealant around the ports (moms bf sugested that to help seal..idk im new to working on cars), sun was down by this time, put it all back together and suprisingly it started, with it its fine..sometimes it starts to bogg at constant speed, accelerate and it clears up, but if i have a passenger, i gotta fight it to stay running at a stop, rmp jumps from .01-1..and it bogs and smokes bad
nope, didn't do that..honestly i didn't take the intake off, i just unbolted, tilted on its side, cleaned the block and bottom of the head, put some tempature sealant around the ports (moms bf sugested that to help seal..idk im new to working on cars), sun was down by this time, put it all back together and suprisingly it started, with it its fine..sometimes it starts to bogg at constant speed, accelerate and it clears up, but if i have a passenger, i gotta fight it to stay running at a stop, rmp jumps from .01-1..and it bogs and smokes bad
The car wouldn't run if the cam was 180* off.
The timing belt keeps the top and bottom half of the engine in sequence with each other, and the belt runs over the cam gears at the top and the crank at the bottom.
You need to find Top Dead Center for your engine by rotating the crank counter clockwise until the white mark on the crank is lined up with your timing case. Then line up the cam gears and make sure they're in the right position (the two marks should line up with the mark on the head which is between the cam gears). If you're asking what a cam is i can't believe you took on the job of replacing a head gasket.
Good luck with it.
The timing belt keeps the top and bottom half of the engine in sequence with each other, and the belt runs over the cam gears at the top and the crank at the bottom.
You need to find Top Dead Center for your engine by rotating the crank counter clockwise until the white mark on the crank is lined up with your timing case. Then line up the cam gears and make sure they're in the right position (the two marks should line up with the mark on the head which is between the cam gears). If you're asking what a cam is i can't believe you took on the job of replacing a head gasket.
Good luck with it.
Lol i know what a cam is, kk thanks, someone told me to make sure the 1st piston is all the way up too, by laying a screw driver in it and turn until its to the time...idk
Line the crank up first, and check that the arrow on the cam gears are facing up and the piston in cyl #1 will be at the top.
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darthcrab
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