I read several posts on this and some folks say to apply hondabond/rtv on both the pan surface as well as the gasket side meeting the block while others say just put the gasket on dry except some rtv around the oil pump housing. Which way is considered the correct/better way?I even saw a magazine article where they installed the gasket dry.

 

Thin layer of hondabond on the pan before you set the gasket on the pan. Dont cover up the holes for the bolts with hondabond. It helps to seal it and prevent it from moving when you go to put the pan on.

What ever you do will work fine. There is no set way, this is just how i do it.

 

Running mine with no hb/rtv and have no leaks......but my block was fresh from machine shop so surface was extremely clean.

 

you're going to get all kinds of opinions, i believe the helms manual says to use hondabond where the oil pump and main seal housing meets the block. Honda knows best.

 

RTV on the pan then add gasket let it dry for 5min then criss cross tight the bolts torque to spec.

 

Thanks guys

 

personally, aside from the oil pump, i'd go dry and clean.
just make sure to use an oem gasket. those fel-pro's are complete ****

 

Same here. No rtv at all on mine. No leaks since 2005 gasket change out. Also no torquing. I just used a quarter inch ratchet and tightened snugly. Don't over tighten.

 

well, I tried the honda bond on the pan and then on the oil pump area and torqued to specs. It is leaking from the main seal/flywheel area. I guess I will have to apply gasket maker around that area to stop the seal. It did not leak anywhere else...I did not expect it to leak with a brand new gasket.

 

I have done mine 2 times already dry and with RTV and i'm still getting very slight drips, like maybe a dime size drip after sitting for a day or 2 in the same spot. Ugggg I hate leaks!!

 

My leak is bigger than that. I am going to try this one more time with ultra grey on both sides of the gasket, if not, I suspect there is something going on with the 11 year old pan.

 

Exactly.

 

dont torque oil pan or valve cover, just snug it up.

 

I used a 1/4 ratchet and was very careful not to overtighten and still got a leak with a new gasket...I am going to apply RTV on top of the gasket now and see if that cures the issue.

 

Where did you buy that torque wrench? I went to 4 Sears, three Autozones, a NAPA, Northern tools, and none have a 1/4" torque wrench....I got one at Harbor Freight and will be returning it today since it does not really work (9 ft lbs of torque should not feel like 20)

 

Honda DOES NOT call for any sealant on the oil pan gasket! They DO call for it on the oil pump. I replaced the oil pan gasket and front and rear main seals on my engine during its 270,000 mile service back in 2008. I did just like the Helms showed, Permatex Ultra Gray (same as HB) on the oil pump and rear main housing, and none on the oil pan gasket. But then again I also had the engine upside down on a stand so installing the oil pan and new gasket was extremely easy.

Engine is about to turn 300,000 miles next month and is 100% dry underneath.

My wife's 96 Corolla, on the other hand, doesn't have an oil pan gasket at all, and instead just relies on sealant. I used the same Permatex Ultra Grey on it back in November and it finally got rid of its massive oil pan leaks. I just hate Toyota for using allen bolts for 2/3 of the oil pan bolts and regular hex bolts for the other 1/3

 

save the silicone for the small breast lol

 

I did mines no sealant dry install no leaks. If you think about it and put sealant only on one part of the oil pan the surface is not even all the way around.

 

had the same problem still trying to find which way will work better

 

no sealant on the gasket or on the pan, i followed these idiots instructions on here telling me to honda bond it up and the gasket leaked like a *****, had to take it back off and get another gasket and clean all the **** off and do it again with no "hondabond" and it has sealed perfectly

 

I think I may have solved the mistery. I removed the pan and gasket and put a light on all the studs one by one to check. I found what looked like a blurr around one stud on the side of the flyweheel seal and press it with my fingernal, voila, there was a metal ring embedded deep down against the block from the original gasket (new one has no metal inserts at all). It was not visible to the naked eye. I was able to get it out with needle nose pliers. This must be why I was having a leak on that side. I willl clean it up and reinstall the gasket DRY and see what happens.

 

No metal rings on the new gasket? Did you not get an OEM one?

 

I ordered one from the del ray acura folks and it came like that, no metal rings anywhere...

 

hm maybe mine didn't have the ring either. Oh well, yeah I'm sure that's what was causing your leak.

 

I sent a note to the del ray people to clarify why it did not come with the rings...I know when I used to do the D-series gaskets, they always came with rings.