I have a question about rod bearings . I have a 96 integra with 1.8 dohc no v-tech. I recently replaced the head and 1 piston. The old rod bearings were stamped with these numbers PR4 and D5e. are these standard size bearings or .005 over or these markings are just part numbers ? the bearings the head shop gave me were standard size and it sounds like i may have a slight rod knock. and no i didnt plastigauge the new ones, which was my stupid mistake. lol and so far im impressed with your website very nice.

 

That number tells you this much:

B18A/B18B/B20 Rod bearings
13211-PR4-A02 BLUE
13212-PR4-A02 BLACK
13213-PR4-A02 BROWN
13214-PR4-A02 GREEN
13215-PR4-A02 YELLOW
13216-PR4-A02 PINK
13217-PR4-A02 RED

Found here searching w/Google for: PR4 D5E honda bearings

Here's the link: http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=409

You'd have to have measured the bearing, and/or looked at the color on the bearing to know where it fell.

The whole range of codes is largely fine tuning that you only get with OEM. If you choose an aftermarket such as ACL you essentially get 'green' or whatever is required to get you center range given the crank and block codes.

I'd be less concerned about clearances due to bearing choice and perhaps look at other potential issues.

For example: The rods are rather particular about torque, so if you don't use a bolt stretch gauge on the rod bolts you should be even more careful with the torque wrench, lube, and technique. More is *not* better, for example, as it eats clearances and causes spun bearings.

Also, did you check the rod journals on the crank to see if the previous failed rod had caused any damage?

Attention to detail is very important, and it sounds from the brief description that some may have been missed. If you go back in - read a lot more before starting! ; ' ) There's an incredible amount of experience and expertise on tap in here.

Good luck,

Mark

 

to add, are you sure this isn't piston slap? did you measure ring end gaps with a feeler?
check the cylinder bore for out of round/taper?

 

also, as stated, how did the old rod bearing look? did it show signs of a distorted rod bore/connecting rod journal? if that were the case, throwing a new rod/bearing on may be more damaging than leaving the old one on.
gotta mic the crank pin for out of round if you see signs of it on the bearing
and as i'm sure you've realized, absolutely should have plastigaged before torquing to spec

 

thnakyou for the info. i see now that there is a little more prescision required on these engines. its not like the old cast iron chevy. where you can just put together, torque it down and go. lol when i have more time ill post the story of how i got to this point with the acura. there is a forum for stories correct ? should be a good chuckle for most. i know i can laugh about it now.

 

post it here...please

 

Yes - the story can also help guide diagnostics and recommendations from the rest of us, which could be helpful during your wrenching!

Good luck - Mark

 

ok so heres my story. i work in an auto repair shop in mission viejo CA. one day a young lady comes in and says my boyfriend tried to change my sparkplugs and i think he screwed them up. well he did he stripped #2 and tried to put a sparkplug insert in the head but stripped that too. i tell her i can try the insert one more time myself but its probly not gonna hold. it lasted 2 days and blew out. so now her father gets involved and says honey how about a new car. so i ask him what he wants to do with the integra. he says ill have the salvage yard pick it up. so i tell him ill give him more than the junk yard offers him, get some quotes and ill beat it. so he thinks thats a good deal so he calls around and says they'll give him $350. obviously i realize this is the deal of a lifetime and knowing my son will be 16 in about 4 months, i offer him $450 for the car. ok done deal. i figure all i have to do is put a head on it and ill have a nice cheap car for my son for his first car. the paint was a little oxidized but the interior was in perfect condition, a/c worked, 179000 miles,all stock except the jvc stereo in the dash . what a plus. so i didnt have time right at the moment to put a head on it so i took a 3/4 brass plumbing fitting and tapped it to hold a spark plug insert and then tapped the head to put the fitting into. i figured what the hell i gotta buy a head anyways. well to my amazement it worked. didnt miss and ran great, i even smogged it that way. so one night at 11:30 im getting on the 241 toll road from the 91 fwy. nice little uphill grade to see what this car and my little fix will do. i thought worse case the insert will blow out of the hole and i already know i need a head so lets push it. i take it up to 4000 rpm then 4500 then 5000 . wow this little 4cyl screams then 5500 and all of a sudden i start loosing speed i cant keep it running for nothing it quits and i coast over to the side of the road. now im about half way up the hill, its midnight, and anyone that knows the toll road knows its pretty dark. so i figure im just gonna get it to the top of the hill and park it in the toll booth parking lot and come get it next day. so i call my buddy to come pull me up the hill. he stops at the gas station and buys a rope. now this rope come to find out is made of recycled material, cardboard and such i guess. so its dark and i reach down under the front bumper and find the tow loop, double up the rope and it breaks. ok now we doubled it twice which is qauddrouple it i guess. any way away we go almost to the top of the hill something goes snap---psssssssssss. that wasnt a tow hook that was the high pressure line to the condensor for the a/c. aawwww crap there goes my good working a/c. ok no biggie just a line i can fix it. so we get it to the top park it and i get home about 2:00 am.

ok i pull the head next day cuz half price day is coming up at pick your part and i wanna get the right head. after i pull the head there was a hole burned through #2 piston and a bunch of splatter stuff stuck to the piston. i assume what happened was the brass started to burn and melt and pre-ignition burned a hole through the piston i guess. but any way i goto half price day (what a madhouse that is) and find a head laying under the hood where some one took the engine. it look clean and recently put on. so i dont know why they left just the head i guess cuz half price day the try and get you for every little part you want. so i grab the head, gather up all the cam caps and bolts thank god they were all there and most of the rocker arms. goto the window and she wants to charge me for each rocker arm so i tell her screw it i dont want them. so i get outta there with a nice head for $25 and i didnt even have to take it off. i sent it to the head shop to surface it and have it checked out. came back good no cracks. i also had them find me one new piston and press it with my old rod, and they got me a set of rings and rod bearings. so to make a short story long i put it all together and now i have a knock when its cold and kinda goes away when it warms up. only knocks under acceleration not coasting. now that you mention piston slap el crapitan i think thats what i might be hearing. i did hafta hone that cylinder alot to get some scratches out. and no just like the plastigauge thing i didnt check my ring gap either. so my cheap deal is costing a little more than expected but when i get it straightened out it will still be a nice car for my son. and if he wrecks it ill kill him. lol thanks for your help guys

 

oh by the way thats why i was asking about rod bearing identification. the old bearings were not knocking or making noise. i just thought while i was in there id do them all. i thought the numbers might tell if they were oversize or not. but i think they were original so they were probly standard i assume

 

sounds like that cylinder got pretty damned hot. may have to take it back apart and check the deviation of the bore. follow the manual specs on cylinder bore out of round and taper, ring gap. and have a good look at that connecting rod bearing/journal. and of course, take all required measurements and compare to spec. good luck