I am looking for someone who might have a few moments to look over a tune I have. Long story short, my engine failed and suffered catastrophic damage. I have over 1000.00 in tuning and it's 6 years old. The car sat for several years after blowing. I have rebuilt the car and dropped the new engine in. I do not want to run the car until I know the tune is not the issue. I am a novice to say the most. I have been reading and trying to study up on the tuning, but lack the skills to determine if the tune is the culprit.
If you have a few moments that you can spare and possibly help me out; or at least point me in the correct direction, I would sincerely appreciate it.
Below is the final Dyno tune on the car. I have a dozen or so cal. files, but I am almost positive this was final.
Some information about the car:

As far as engine, here is a little information:

B18a1 .20 over balanced/blueprinted block
ACL Complete Bearing set
GE Block guard
JE Pistons
Eagle rods /ARP rod bolts
JE rings
ARP Studs
Balanced/ Micro-polished Crank
Fully ported B18b1 Head (Port matched intake to JG runners, exhaust to manifold runners)
3 Angle valve job
Crower SS oversized valves
Crower titanium retainers
Crower dual valve springs
B18b Polished cams
JG Edelbrock Victor X Intake manifold
AEM Fuel rail
AEM Fuel filter
AEM Fuel pressure regulator
Walbro 255 lph High flow fuel pump
780cc Precision injectors
AEM EMS
AEM Uego w/ Custom mounting plate
Garrett/Air research 60-1 78 trim turbo (.48ar/.70ar)
HKS SSQV Blow off valve
Tial 35mm Silver Waste gate
Equal Length Stainless Turbo manifold
Stainless 3" Down pipe
Thermal Research & Development 3" Stainless Turbo Catback
MSD 6al Ignition
MSD Digital Blaster coil
Custom Ignition mounting plate/bracket
MSD Distributor external cap and wire
MSD Plug wires 8.5mm
RPS 470 ft lbs torque clutch/pressure plate
NGK Plugs 7* colder
RevHard Stage III Intercooler (32x9x3)

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Unfortunately, I cannot upload the files as they are not valid file extensions for h-t. If you can help, I would be more than happy to email them to you!
I am really appreciative for any and all help!

 

What Series of AEM EMS are you running ? ,

Aem EMS is amazing, but if you are worried about the tune, I would go to a reputable tuner that HAS AEM experience.

Also might be worth investing in a T1 Cam Gear trigger kit , this will give a 100% solid ignition signal to the AEM ( a problem some people have experienced when trying to pick up the OEM distributor signal ).

expensive, but worth its weight in gold.

 

oh and to upload the cal files, zip them. And then upload them.

H-t accepts zipped files.

 

The setup you have seems reliable, I reviewed it a couple times. If anything you either had a temporary fuel delivery issue or a minor mechanical failure that caused the catastrophy, I'd review smaller parts to make sure they're fully functional - otherwise there's a fair possibility it's your tune but there's little we could detect unless there's something extremely out of place; I've tuned similar boosted Hondas that have as much as 18* timing differences and completely incomparable fuel maps.

 

DVD-R:
I am running the older box. The car was built 6-7 years ago now. I can run out and pull the kick panel to check the exact model number if that helps.

The triggering kit looks nice, but I am still running power steering and ac, so its a tight fit and I need them bolt holes! lol.
I will attach the current file zipped I just downloaded from the ems. ;-) TY!

Vegas: Odd you should mention a fuel problem.... I just tried starting the car and found a few issues that I am currently trying to solve. I started a thread about that here:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...7#post44757197

Again, the tune is attached as a zip file. Any help would be great!

 

Current Cal file:

 

This was uploaded via the newest version of AEM Pro and its an older cal file. Also, the serial cable had to be adapter to a converter to USB. I am not sure how these may effect the tune or the way the cal file reads.
I have read a few posts about problems with the serial to usb cables.

One odd thing I did not understand is the engine load was reading 96.6 kPa and the car was not even on. This may be nothing, but I do not recall it doing this years ago when I would connect.

Thanks you!

 

Si integra, If you want to keep the AC , then go with AEM EPM. but this will force you to go Coil on plug = a much bigger expense now ( you need :

aem epm , 4 coils ( aem or cbr ), twin fire or similar , ( then move a jumper or two in your box , IF its not that old ( aprox 7-5 years ago they had jumpers )





Using an usb to serial adapter wont change anything in the tune.

 

Si integra, If you want to keep the AC , then go with AEM EPM. but this will force you to go Coil on plug = a much bigger expense now ( you need :

aem epm , 4 coils ( aem or cbr ), twin fire or similar , ( then move a jumper or two in your box , IF its not that old ( aprox 7-5 years ago they had jumpers )





Using an usb to serial adapter wont change anything in the tune.

 

That looks like a nice setup!I have always hated the bulky distributor/wires. Ironically I was just talking about doing away with the distributor a few days ago. Does it make any difference if you use CBR or AEM coils?
I see a lot of CBR Coils in the 50.00 Range and AEM in the 300.00 range.

 

I just search and found this thread. WOW, the tune is all off whack, the fuel maps looks horrible, the timing map looks like hell, why the hell did you let this person tune your car? the boost corect table is all 0, and the fuel tables from 26psi on up is crazy. who in there right mind will do this? just look at your tables, fuel and timing, it's nothing like it should be, a good advice, put a base map on and go to a good tuner, someone who has an aem and someone who knows what there doing. good luck