Car wont crank!
sup ht,
i just turned 17, and getting into the game. Ive had my db8 about 3 months now and it was fine, but then two days ago i got out and came back and it wouldnt turn over or start. so i had my dad come jump it, and still wouldnt turn over. so we tried to push start it and it turned on. so i got the starter tested and it was bad, so i replaced it. still wont turn over. the battery and alternator are fine and i dont know what else it could be. help!!
i just turned 17, and getting into the game. Ive had my db8 about 3 months now and it was fine, but then two days ago i got out and came back and it wouldnt turn over or start. so i had my dad come jump it, and still wouldnt turn over. so we tried to push start it and it turned on. so i got the starter tested and it was bad, so i replaced it. still wont turn over. the battery and alternator are fine and i dont know what else it could be. help!!
Here's a list to review.. to get you started:
1) New starter is also bad - it happens!
2) Battery has an internal, partial short and won't produce enough current - appears fine otherwise
3) Battery cable has corroded under insulation - won't spin starter but engine runs
4) Wiring problem - frayed or shorted somewhere in the harness? Make sure you put (connector) it back on (and correctly) when you re-installed the starter.
Diagnostics - do you have a voltmeter?
For #2, check voltage at the battery. It should be 12.6V when nothing is on, and 10-ish while cranking. You should at least see it drop while turning the key to start, if the starter is getting any current at all.
If the voltage at the battery remains around 12V while turning the key, check at the starter terminal.. is there 12V? Does it drop when you turn the key to start? A bad cable would show up as a very low voltage here when it should be cranking.
Is there voltage at the connector? There should be a signal making it to the starter to engage the solenoid - you should hear a loud click, but if the starter is bad internally you might see voltage but no activity or sound.
Beyond that - any interlocks or alarm systems that may be interrupting the start signal?
Hope this gets you started.
Mark
1) New starter is also bad - it happens!
2) Battery has an internal, partial short and won't produce enough current - appears fine otherwise
3) Battery cable has corroded under insulation - won't spin starter but engine runs
4) Wiring problem - frayed or shorted somewhere in the harness? Make sure you put (connector) it back on (and correctly) when you re-installed the starter.
Diagnostics - do you have a voltmeter?
For #2, check voltage at the battery. It should be 12.6V when nothing is on, and 10-ish while cranking. You should at least see it drop while turning the key to start, if the starter is getting any current at all.
If the voltage at the battery remains around 12V while turning the key, check at the starter terminal.. is there 12V? Does it drop when you turn the key to start? A bad cable would show up as a very low voltage here when it should be cranking.
Is there voltage at the connector? There should be a signal making it to the starter to engage the solenoid - you should hear a loud click, but if the starter is bad internally you might see voltage but no activity or sound.
Beyond that - any interlocks or alarm systems that may be interrupting the start signal?
Hope this gets you started.
Mark
the battery is fine, but ill check the cables cause they do look corroded. but someone also told me to check the solenoid. ill be up at it tomorrow morning,
so i figured out what the problem is, turns out the starter was fine. but the nuetral safety switch on the clutch pedal was getting pushed in when the clutch was being pushed. it looks like something had fallen out of there. has anyone ever had that happen?
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jorge59la
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Sep 16, 2007 06:28 PM




