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NEED ANSWERS...main studs and head studs

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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 08:31 PM
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t-del28's Avatar
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From: paradise, chi
Post NEED ANSWERS...main studs and head studs

Hello,

i am trying to figure it out.....What is the DIFFERENT between MAIN studs and HEAD studs??

For b18c1 GSR motor...
explain to me clearly




one more thing, is it good idea to use OEM oil filter and Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic Motor Oil 5w-30 on stock GSR motor????

need be clearly of your opinions...
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 09:59 PM
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Default Re: NEED ANSWERS...main studs and head studs

Head studs go in the head as replacements of cylinder head bolts, while main studs are the ones that go in the main journals holding your crankshaft, and you should be great with that oil and filter though when i used mobil 1 synthetic on my type r it seemed like it burned oil, you may wanna go a little thicker but your str8, oh and the studs to go with are always ARP
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 11:49 PM
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Default Re: NEED ANSWERS...main studs and head studs

oil filter relocation kit, more efficient filtration and cooler oil.. think about it. BTW ARP studs are more than enough to go crazy.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 06:12 AM
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Default Re: NEED ANSWERS...main studs and head studs

I recommend Mobil1 0w-30 oil. In no case would I ever recommend going with an oil thicker than 30 weight, as the oil will have problems getting in between all the crank and rod bearings at operating temperature. As for the 5w vs. 10w debate, well that's just the oil viscosity when cold. The thicker the oil is when cold, the more engine wear happens during cold engine startup. 0w-30, 5w-30, and 10w-30 all have the same viscosity at operating temperature, around 212° F.

Engines would likely last a good bit longer if people used 0w-30 to replace 5w or 10w-30, or 0w-20 to replace 5w-20 oil.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 10:05 AM
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From: paradise, chi
Default Re: NEED ANSWERS...main studs and head studs

Originally Posted by PatrickGSR94
I recommend Mobil1 0w-30 oil. In no case would I ever recommend going with an oil thicker than 30 weight, as the oil will have problems getting in between all the crank and rod bearings at operating temperature. As for the 5w vs. 10w debate, well that's just the oil viscosity when cold. The thicker the oil is when cold, the more engine wear happens during cold engine startup. 0w-30, 5w-30, and 10w-30 all have the same viscosity at operating temperature, around 212° F.

Engines would likely last a good bit longer if people used 0w-30 to replace 5w or 10w-30, or 0w-20 to replace 5w-20 oil.
oh i see, i never thought of that, thanks for your advice
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