I have a BONE STOCK 1989 hatch. I Started getting like every code so i swapped the ecu and now I only get one code "8". So I put a new dizzy and still get the code.

I discovered that I have Battery Voltage about 12.4volts at all of the grounds and even if i touch a test lead to the block I have battery voltage. Has anyone ever had this problem? Where should I start looking. I thought it was a bad (underhood) fuse box so i swapped it out and still have voltage everywhere?

Need help...I have a 40mile commute to school every day and this is my daily.

 

when u test the voltage are u putting one lead to the positive then it shows that u have voltage to the block? im just trying to see if u are testing it right.....as for the code 8, restart the ecu by removing the ecu fuse under the hood for about a min. should clear the code

 

All I got to say is wow lmao lear how to use a volt meter and test light lol.

 

One test lead to the negative battery post with the negative cable removed and the positve cable still attached and when i touch the other test lead too any spot on the engine I have battery voltage. I do that same test with a test light and it lights up when I touch it anywhere on the engine or to any ground.

 

How am I not using it right?

If you're not here to help then bounce hater!

 

I forgot to mention that even things like the struts have 12.4 volts running through them.

 

sooo one lead to the neg battery post then the other to any metal engine/car part and pow!? you got voltage?

 

Yupp about 12.4-5 volts. Total battery voltage

 

Well in you first post you did not say where you where grounding the volt meter or test light so I figured you had it to a power source.. because if you did that would mean when you would touch any ground surface or ground wire it would show volts. Now you posted you have it grounded to the neg battery post with the neg cable off and it showing volts that's a diffrent story I was not hating. you where just not clear and some people I could see making the mistake I just stated in no way was I hating. But to me it sounds like a short to ground some where are any fuses blowing or battery dieing?

 

hook up your leads like you have been. pull fuses until voltage disappears to find your short

 

The negative battery terminal should be connected while testing for ground. Think about it, if you disconnect the negative battery lead, and connect the meter to the neg bat terminal and any piece of metal that was normally grounded you are just completing the circuit. anything that uses a ground when off will draw power, ie clock, ecu memory, radio memory, etc.

the way you are testing right now, is good for finding amp loads when the car is off, ie battery drains.

to test for good grounding, connect both terminals of the battery, and touch one lead to the negative and one to the ground you want to test and check for continuity. the alternative is to connect the test lead currently connected to the ground terminal to the positive terminal, and just check for voltage (just like a test light)

to test a voltage source, connect one lead to the ground terminal, and the other to the voltage source you want to check, and check for voltage.

 

Sorry for snapping.

No blown fuses or battery dying issues. car was running fine up until the other day when I started getting code "16" and "8". I replaced the Main Relay and cleared the codes and code "8" stuck around. I did all of the test from the dealer manual and decided to swap out the dizzy because the resistance readings were off. I swapped the ecu cause I have a bunch sitting around and I still have code "8".

 

I will try this first thing in the morning. I will update tomorrow. Thanks everyone.

 

Perfect answer

 

Like cpl rampage said, you have to have the negative battery cable hooked to the battery when testing any electrical on the car because the battery is the source of voltage in a circuit, without the battery hooked up there wont be any voltage in the circuit. Unless for some reason you need to check resistance in a circuit or component using your ohm meter, then there should be no voltage in that circuit (unhook the ground calbe on the battery). And its just my .02 but never use a test light, always use a multimeter. Hope you have better luck with your testing tomorrow!

 

Found the problem! Some mickey mouse piece of wire from the harness to the alternator was bare and touching that metal bracket that holds the IM to the Block. It was arching off of it for a long time I guess cause it was like welded on there.

SO NEW PROBLEM! I am still getting CEL Code 8 so I put in a BRAND NEW dizzy from my other hatch and still have code 8. Can it be a timing issue? Cause it will start but is very rough and when I accelerate it dies.

 

it could be a wiring issue. trace the tdc wires back to the ecu. here is a link to tell u which wires are which.......http://media.photobucket.com/image/d...izzyConn-3.jpg

 

I checked the wires nothing wrong with them. I have continuity between all ends and resistance readings for dizzy and ecu at those wires match specs.