I am going to re-torque my head studs. They call for 70 ft-lbs. They are arp. I have a 12 inch extension I have to use (I don't have a shorter one). Is this going to affect my torque reading? Btw, where can I get the order of which ones to tighten first - last?

 

it doesnt matter if your using a torque wrench

 

oh and for the torque sequence look at your service manual

 

Don't have one

 

Don't have what? A torque wrench, or a Factory service manual?

Buy a torque wrench from the store, FSM's can be downloaded. I would check out google.com for a search.

 

I have a torque wrench, I don't have a manual. Can I still go off the manual although I have alot of aftermarket parts and pushing 360 hp?

 

Yes you go by the manual.

Here is the sequence for b series
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0192_large.jpg

And for d series
http://img293.imageshack.us/i/32802424wj7.png/sr=1

 

Which engine do I have?

 

d series engine. your pushing 360 horse and dont know what kind of engine you have?

 

The kid that sold it to me told me to torque them to 70ft/lbs... The diagram says 47. I just bought it saturday. Is this a good engne to be pushing that much horse?

 

Cheesus! Your really asking that question? Torque them down to 70+ depending on how much boost you are on and if you are using the ARP lubricant.

 

The recommended torque is with lubricant. If you torque them dry they will be under-torqued. Always use what they recommend

 

I'm sorry for all the stupid questions... I'm new to all of this. I am on 25 pounds of boost. How do I know if I am using ARP lube? Is it lube that you put on everytime you torque the bolts? The reason I'm re-torqueing the bolts is because I have some oil leaking... But I'm not sure where it was coming from, so the guy that sold it to me told me to re-torque the head bolts.

 

Can you see where the oil is leaking from?

 

25 psi? lol.

 

I'm not sure... I wipe off oil in front of the engine and a couple hours later its there again. I can't see any drips or marks of where the oil is coming from, its just all over the front.

 

Why lol?

 

check you valve cover, id go buy a gasket, their like 15 bucks, replace that.
check the head, hit it with brake clean, start the motor up and look for oil.

 

I took my valve cover off and put some red silicone on it... I don't think its coming from the valve cover... That is about the only dry spot on the whole engine... I really hope its not a head gasket. Is it normal to have to re-torque the head studs after a couple thousand miles on a rebuild?

 

its surely not implausible, but the likeliness of the fact the guy who had it didnt torque them in sequence or right torque could have been the case.. so yeah, id just go ahead and retorque to arp specs and give it a go.

 

Should I loosen them and then re-torque them in sequence (20 lbs to 40 to 70)? Or should I just not loosen them and just retorque to 70?

 

loosen them