I have recently done a JDM B16A swap in a 1990 Honda Civic Standard. I have the motor running but as the title says, I am getting a trouble code 4 for the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I have checked the wiring for the C1 and C2 blue/green and blue/yellow wires that run from the ECU to the distributor. I have also made sure that all spark plug wires are at the correct locations. I have a brand new distributor which is a aftermarket ebay distributor. I currently cannot check the timing with a timing light because I need to get the timing belt cover to line the crankshaft pulley up with the mark on the cover. I have stuck a long screw driver in the number one cylinder to check for top dead center and the cam gears along with the crankshaft pulley seemed to be lined up at the right spot. I have been dealing with this problem for a while and do not know what else to do. Has anyone had this problem that may know what I can do to fix it? It is very frustrating because I have been dealing with this problem for quite some time now. The car will start up and the motor seems to be running pretty smooth, from what I can tell there does not even seem to be a miss. It does have a slight hesitation upon initially opening the throttle up. If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Im having the exact same problem with my 1990 civic std with jdm b16a swap. This is the last code i am running so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

dont really know for civics but for the early 90's accords this among other dizzy related codes is a known problem with aftermarket dizzy's. maybe borrow a oem dizzy from a buddy see if the cel goes away.

 

I just figured my problem out a few weeks ago actually. It ended up being the pinouts. Whenever I did the swap I relocated the pins from b10 and b12 to c1 and c2 and had damaged the pins to where they were not making contact with the male pins on the ecu. They say to just add new pins in the c1 and c2 pinouts. If you have checked for resistance between the two pins for the sensor in the distributor and resistance between the wires from the ecu to the distributor and that checks out then try to either replace those pins or take them out and take a pair of pliers and squeeze them together just a bit but make sure and not damage them too bad if you do that. If you have not checked the continuity for the sensor in the distributor the service manual shows that you can by connecting a volt meter to each pin coming from the distributor. I believe it is like 600-800 ohms is good.

 

hey i am throwing code 4 i have switched out 3 distributors , redid the wiring for b10,b12, and c1 and c2 which pinouts are for the code 4 i just bought this 90 ef from a guy and he had the wires for b10 and b12 in the wrong pins i fixed that.
today i redid all the wiring except for c1 and c2 and c3 and c4 they were already there . i used pins from a stereo harness to pin b10 and 12 does that matter ? anyway so it fired up and ran awesome than 2 minutes later my pr3 starts flashing. and than it dies... ive checked my timing ive checked everything . does the fusible main . in the fusebox in the engine bay have 2 do with anything ? i was checking fuses and wires in the fusebox and my fusible main wasnt lighting up. anyway plz someone give me ideas , its not the dizzy for sure and i doubt three dizzys are bad.