just getting back into the honda world, and i have a few questions..
iam currently building a 92si eg hatch,

2k si b16 trans
b18b1 bottom end golden eagle convversion.
90 b16a head gsr cams.
type r sly
arp head studs and mls head gasket.

i have arp rod bolts, oem itr pistons, itr valve springs plans to get the stock rods shop pined and have the crank knife cut with the assembly balanced.
and a after market intake mani.

i figured i would build this untill i find the time to do a turbo build.

my problems so far are the head, i cant get the motor to crack hard, there is good oil flow to the head, good sly, all wired up correct, i had the bottom end together before with a b16a2 head and it cracked hard, even with the b16 cams, now with this b16a head with the gsr cams its basically a ls, ive ran a type r lay out and a gsr lay out, no change, any ideas on what it could be?

maybe its time for a new head..

 

Well save yourself the trouble and dont worry about shot-peening the rods OR knife edging that crank. Its not need or worth it. Also I wouldnt rush into a aftermarket IM for a stock build, especially if you plan on going boost in the future. Save the money for that.
As for the "cracking hard issue" is there a noticable vtec engagement? What is it set at? Is the motor tuned?
Im also trying to figure out what a "type r sly" is.

 

the vtec solenoid is off a type r, i know no diffrence just coolness..
there is little to no change in the vtec. this is not my first build just been out for a while,

the motor was tuned, but no change, so i started messin around with diffren oe lay outs. i am currently running a gsr lay out with the vtec at 5400, little high for the vtec but just wanted to try it, i also tryed a type r lay out and still no change. i really dont plan on running boost on this bottom end if i do the type r pistons. ive done that already on a c5 and its not worth toasting the bottom end.

 

Type r vtec does not engage til 5800 to 6000. you may have it set too low.

 

i am running the gsr lay out, i put the ecu i have now in one of out test cars, another eg with the d15z1 and it ran and drove awsome and it cracked hard in that.. pretty funny.

i lower it to like 4500 tomorrow and see what happens.

 

If you have swapped cams make sure the little o-ring under cam cap #3 is there and not damaged.

 

i think i might just swap the head.. i did everything and still no change. kinda running out of options. might trade it for a gsr head and stock intake mani

 

Did your tuner look at the low/ high cam profiles and is your VTEC actually engaging?

 

i got a code 22 today.. vtec sly, any ideas? maybe a bad oil pan. something stupid.

 

i had this problem on my last build there was a sludge from the assembly lube in the oil pan it took me months to figure it out i dropped the pan cleaned it and took a dent out the bottom from sitting on the pan out of the car and vwola!
MAJOR CRACKAGE.....

 

i changed the sly and no change.. so today i am pullin it apart. itr pistons goin in. going to beat out the oil pan and clean it up.

 

ok its all together, and still no vtec.
there is good oil psi. and the ecu is kickin on the vtec sly. but still no change in sound or vtec not workin. i am lost.

 

You obviously ran/wired something incorrectly.

 

sat vtec to 2k once car was warm it hit 2 k and there was power to the sly. idk what could be wrong.