I've had this for a while and thought I was going to sell it and get something a little more expensive (G35/STI/EVO) but seeing as I'm in college... It makes a hell of a lot more sense to stay with something that's paid off. It's a 94 GSR with 95k miles on it right now and running as good as ever.

This is from the forsale ad about 3 years ago:





Back when I first bought the car, I didn't have an exhaust at all. So first thing I did was buy a Skunk 2 catback. Oh, the ricer days! After getting a few tickets with it, I decided to take it off and sell it. We had a good 6 month run, haha.



A little progress...can't really see it, but I swapped out the entire sound system with Alpine Type-S components, Headunit w/ Ipod Interface and a 12" PowerBass Sub in the trunk. Finally got some Amber corners as well...





Update: Suspension came in the mail today, Function and Form Type 1's and BLOX LCA's. I know...blox...but they were free, so I'm not really worried about it. Plenty of people have used them with no problems whatsoever.







Looks a little better -- still need to tweak the height a bit, but 100x better than before:

 

Next on the list is a set of wheels and long-awaited body work...this has gotta go




Little Update -- Decided to take the GSR wing off and try wingless for a bit.



Decided to refinish my Fat Fives:
Before

During

After


Most Recent Pics, as she sits. (Still Waiting on Body Work)



Any suggestions on wheels or anything else?

 

Looks very clean. Keep it safe. Also, keep an eye on the bushings in the blox lca's. As you already know, they are known for going bad. Honestly, the fives look great on it.

 

that looks really clean. i love the dropped oem look. look awesome

 

Looks great. A lip i think would look great on there

 

looks real nice, wish my car was still red. What size are your tires?

 

Yeah, when the car goes in for paint I plan on putting an Si-VTEC front lip on and a 98 rear bumper as well. Possibly a set of yellow SIR Fog's, but I haven't really decided yet.

As far as wheels, I want something a little more aggressive. Maybe a set of Axis OG's or something similar. The tires are mismatched right now 195/50 in the front and 195/55 in the rear.

 

ohhh that's why the rear is tucking so much haha

I prefer 195/50 myself. I hate my current 195/55 tires on my OEM wheels.

 

Need a little help guys, car's throwing CEL43 - "Fuel Supply System" Basically, when driving it drives fine up until around 3500/4000k rpms and then it begins to stutter like it's not getting enough fuel.

I've ran B12 Chemtool through the tank, which seemed to make it run smoother (Making me think it's not the injectors), changed the fuel filter and spark plugs... Does this sound like the fuel pump? or more an 02 Sensor issue??

 

Sounds like fuel pump on its way out. Is there any way you can get a fuel pressure gauge on it to see if its running on the low end?

If you had a bad O2 sensor, you'd be throwing an O2 code, not fuel system.

If you find that it is infact the fuel pump, throw a walbro 255 in it. It will easily support any future upgrades to the fuel system if you decide to build the motor and up the injector size.

Good Luck

 

Updates! Well, I failed inspection recently for trailing arm bushings, so I decided to start a little side project cleaning up the rear end and doing a few small modifications.

HTrailing Arm right after I pulled it off:



Cleaned/Undercoated/Painted:


New Wicked Tuning Toe Arms, OEM Honda Toe Bolts and Walbro Fuel Pump to hopefully fix my fuel issues.



I'm working on cleaning everything up more and re-undercoating the wheel wells and a few other areas on the car. Should be going to paint in a week or so! SOO Excited!

 

Here's a few updates on everything now I got it back together and inspected. Finished the undercoating/painting of the trailing arms and installed everything I've had so far.





Going to pick up a 98+ Rear Bumper and OEM Rear Valances this weekend, so everything is finally coming together before it goes into the booth. I've been tossing around the idea of getting a rear fog as well, still undecided.

Need some opinions on wheels as well....Here's my options at the moment:

 

Car looks good, it'd be ashame to let those fat fives go to waste...they look good on red.

 

They don't look bad by any means, I just want a more aggressive wheel/tire setup. This is no longer my daily driver so I can have a little fun with it

It's running a little weird right now. It feels REALLY down on power, yet I've done a full tune up : Battery, Fuel Filter, Walbro Pump, Spark Plugs, Plug Wires, 02 Sensor and Air Filter. I'm getting horrible gas milage as well, so something is definately wrong... 19/20mpg doesn't sound right for a 4cyl motor.

I've noticed my EVAP Purge Solenoid is cracked and sounds like a vacuumn leak when the car is running. Could this have that much of an effect on performance?? From what I've read, most people say it doesn't do much at all, but I don't know much about how the system works. Here's what I'm seeing:



Any help would be awesome!!

 

Ugh, I REALLY should've cleaned/painted my RTAs when I had them off but I really didn't feel like it, lol...

Don't know about the solenoid crack, but one thing to check is cam timing. You can get symptoms like that when the TB slips a tooth on the cam sprockets.

 

That's my main guess actually. My fuel pump was actually bad (Had CEL for it) but now there are no CEL's and the car still runs bad, so I'll look into that this weekend.

Is there an easy way to check cam timing?? Or do you have to take the entire belt off??

 

It's easy to check. You just have to get the upper timing belt cover off and get a view of the indicator on the crank pulley. Set TDC by checking the mark on the crank pulley and then make sure the cams are more or less at TDC. You might have to crank them slightly if you aren't accurate on the crank mark. It should be obvious if things aren't lining up.

Edit remember to only turn the cam gears clockwise! In which case it's best to turn the intake cam.

 

Well it's been forever since I've updated this, but here's where the car currently stands The last few years I've been pressed for time with work and school. But ow things are settling down again, I can get back into building this the way I want.

Well, first things first -about a year or so ago, I did get the car painted. Unfortunately it was a disaster. A guy I worked with at the time had agreed to paint it. I'd seen his work before and was happy with the quality and figured he would do a good job. So I started working with him -- paying for the supplies, booth rental, etc. up front. A few weeks later he quit his job and disappeared. Fortunately, he never started working on the car. After tracking him down, I had to summons him to court before finally receiving the money and supplies he purchased back. He ended up buying all cheap Nason products, when I had explicitly told him I wanted PPG or Dupont. I was bummed, but it could have been way worse.

Because of that, I had to find a replacement painter quick. I ended up using a friend's uncle. He used what the previous guy had bought, but ended up doing a crappy job as well. He only managed to get 1 coat of clear on the car and there were several dents, sanding scratches that should have been taken care of with guide coat. He did shave my side moldings (the correct way) and fixed a few other issues as well. Not a complete loss, but still FAR from the quality I expected. Car looks OK at 10 feet away, but when you're right up on it it's awful. Definitely will be redone before I'm finished with this.

When I first got it back:



I'm planning on repainting the car after installing a JDM Front later this year. I'll do all the body work myself, then have a local shop (Who I should have used in the first place, but cheaped out ) paint/clear coat it. Sometimes the only way to get things right is to do it yourself. Apparently that old addage is still true.

Today, the paint is getting worse -- lots of solvent pop / dirt in the clear that can't be sanded out without burning through.
Plus, I had rust in my quarters, so his idea of "rolling" them was to just cut and fold my rusty lips. I'll be doing new wheel wells on both sides, all jambs with all glass pulled when I fix this mess.

 

Enough about the past problems -- Here's what I'm doing to fix it!

Bought a cheap set of 16" Rota Circuit 8's to tie me over until I can get a 5-Lug conversion and 16" ITR wheels or BBS/Volks.





I had the car parked for about a year after running into the typical rusty hardlines under the car (Where the plastic mounting clips hold the lines to the car)



So, given that I have to fix them, I'm going to flare in new sections temporarily until I have time to pull the motor and run all new stainless AN lines from front to rear. I'm getting ready to move later this year, so I don't want to jump into anything too crazy at the moment. Especially, when we'll have a nice pole barn with a lift in just a few months. That'll definitely make this ALOT easier!

For now, A new Matco 47 deg. flaring tool will do the trick:



Started removing the fuel tank and a few items in the way. Decided it would be a good idea to POR15 the undercarriage while I have it this far apart.







Removed the bumper, found a rusty bumper crash bar and support. Will be replacing these and POR15'ing them to prevent any future damage.



How the car currently sits -- and a few goodies waiting to go on



New Exhaust -- Bought a cheap ITR replica header to tie me over until I decide to go turbo. Along with a 3" Kteller piping kit, Magnaflow Hi-Flow Cat, Vibrant Resonator and a 3" Apexi WS2 Turbo Muffler. Full V-Band setup. Should sound really nice when it is all together. Exhaust will be TIG welded at a buddies shop in the next few weeks.





And of course some new OEM hardware to replace those rusty license plate light mounts -- as well as some new Fuel Tank hardware I needed.



Decided the Blox LCA's were crap and upgraded. Full Function 7 setup along with an ASR 24mm SwayBar. Blox Spherical Endlinks are already installed on the car.



Engine Bay needs some love -- Stock other than a BWR Fuel Pressure Gauge, NGK Wire, Header and a few wrinkle black accents powdercoated by me.

Will post some more updates as soon as I get the POR15 and Undercoating finished. I'll need to grab some Slim Fan's as well, as it looks like I have some clearance issues with the new header. I also have an SI-Vtec lip in the box that will go on soon as well.