help!
89 civic wagon 1.5l auto 2wd
the problem im having is the car will stall after it is warmed up, it gives me a hard time to start, i have to give it gas for it to to stay on or else the rpms will drop all the way to 0 very slowly, i replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignitor, ignition coil, fuel filter, took the injectors out and soaked them in carb cleaner ( there working fine) checked all the fuses ( all checked out ok), checked the ohms on the injectors ( checked out perfect) replaced the main relay, no check engine codes, when car runs i hear the fuel pump working fine, took the fuel line that goes into the trottle body (dual point injection) and turn the key witout starting the car and a half a cup of fuel came out ( check out ok) when the car heats up completely thats when it dies. it feels like its studdering, when i floor the gas then it stays on... NOW THERES ONE THING I NOTICED! when i pulled the positive cable off the battery when the car was running it shut off, DOESNT THAT MEAN THE ALTERNATOR IS BAD? check the alternator fuse its fine, checked the connections to the alternator and there clean, and the battery isnt dead nor low on life... would the atlernator make the car stall when its hot or give me a hard time starting??? also i noticed when the car is warming up and i put the headlights on the rpms drop and when the headlights and highbeam is on the rpm drops a half of an rpm, after i cleaned the injectors the car was on for 10 mins and ran great no hesitation to start and then died and the battery light and oil light came on, but the battery light was very very dim and look like it was quivering, then it would go off then go on very dim....Idk wat else to do... MY QUESTION is will the alternator cause the car to do this, i just dont want to change the alternator and its something else :? its driving me insane lol any help would be greatly appreciated
the problem im having is the car will stall after it is warmed up, it gives me a hard time to start, i have to give it gas for it to to stay on or else the rpms will drop all the way to 0 very slowly, i replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignitor, ignition coil, fuel filter, took the injectors out and soaked them in carb cleaner ( there working fine) checked all the fuses ( all checked out ok), checked the ohms on the injectors ( checked out perfect) replaced the main relay, no check engine codes, when car runs i hear the fuel pump working fine, took the fuel line that goes into the trottle body (dual point injection) and turn the key witout starting the car and a half a cup of fuel came out ( check out ok) when the car heats up completely thats when it dies. it feels like its studdering, when i floor the gas then it stays on... NOW THERES ONE THING I NOTICED! when i pulled the positive cable off the battery when the car was running it shut off, DOESNT THAT MEAN THE ALTERNATOR IS BAD? check the alternator fuse its fine, checked the connections to the alternator and there clean, and the battery isnt dead nor low on life... would the atlernator make the car stall when its hot or give me a hard time starting??? also i noticed when the car is warming up and i put the headlights on the rpms drop and when the headlights and highbeam is on the rpm drops a half of an rpm, after i cleaned the injectors the car was on for 10 mins and ran great no hesitation to start and then died and the battery light and oil light came on, but the battery light was very very dim and look like it was quivering, then it would go off then go on very dim....Idk wat else to do... MY QUESTION is will the alternator cause the car to do this, i just dont want to change the alternator and its something else :? its driving me insane lol any help would be greatly appreciated
no sir i have not, there was oil leaking to the 3rd plug but i took car of that it was just the seal on the valve thats apart of the valve cover, i just dont understand if its been my alternator the whole time how come my battery is still fully charged and ive had this problem for 2 weeks?
If you can get the car running check the battery voltage with a digital multi meter and see what you get.
You can get a cheap DMM from Harbour freight tools for about $5 if you don't have one.
You can get a cheap DMM from Harbour freight tools for about $5 if you don't have one.
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Thanksalot bro, I checked it wit a volt meter and the volts checked out where they should b according to the repair manual
also this all started after the tune up i did! the lady that sold me the car said it would stall, i replaced the main relay and it was fine for a week and a half, then i did a tune up and **** started going down hill from there
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