LS turbo CRX won't start
We just got done rebuilding the LS motor, got everything hooked up, and now it won't start. It will crank just fine, but won't turn over. The timing is spot on, no CEL codes, fuses are all good, but I'm not getting fire to the distributor/plugs. The main relay is new, the distributor is new.
I relocated the battery to the trunk and have a ground from battery to frame, on the valve cover, and the thermostat. Do I need one on the transmission also? It ran fine before with no ground here, so I don't think thats the problem.
I'm kind of stumped on this one. I'm sure its something simple but I can't figure it out.
I relocated the battery to the trunk and have a ground from battery to frame, on the valve cover, and the thermostat. Do I need one on the transmission also? It ran fine before with no ground here, so I don't think thats the problem.
I'm kind of stumped on this one. I'm sure its something simple but I can't figure it out.
Yeah I can smell the fuel and hear the pump prime. The ECU is a stock P75 with Hondata S200 installed in it. The car sat for about a year, but I don't see how the ECU could go bad.
if your not getting spark, check your coil or igniter, (inside the dizzy) even though you said the dizzy is new... its electrical... the parts can go out at any point of time. new or used....
good luck.
good luck.
So the car still won't start, and I did put a ground on the transmission. The car is OBD1 and gives a code 15 after I try to crank it, and a solid CEL when the service connector is jumped. This means the ECU is okay right?
I tried my old distributor and a new Distributor King unit, but I can't believe both are bad. How would I go about testing the coil and ignitor? On the DK unit, it has plastic surrounding the internals so you can't get to them.
Also I'm getting 12 volts at the black/yellow ignitor harness wire with the key on, but very low voltage on the other color wires, is this normal?
I tried my old distributor and a new Distributor King unit, but I can't believe both are bad. How would I go about testing the coil and ignitor? On the DK unit, it has plastic surrounding the internals so you can't get to them.
Also I'm getting 12 volts at the black/yellow ignitor harness wire with the key on, but very low voltage on the other color wires, is this normal?
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