Where do these wires go?
Ok, so I got the connector for my dizzy, and the colors all match up (almost) and I have everything all soldiered and wrapped. The only issue is that the extra wires I have coming from the B connector on the ECU I have no idea where they go, and the connector for the dizzy has an extra wire coming from it and it has no mate coming from the B connector. The extra wire on the dizzy is yellow with a green stripe. The wires I don't have a place for yet are the LG2 logic ground, VSS (this goes on the tranny right?) STS starter signal switch (is this the one that has the little slide on clip connecting to the starter?), and the IGP 1 power ground. Once I get those finished the B connector will be DONE! Well with this connector at least, lol.
What do I need (if anything) with the other end of the shielding?

Here is a shot of the wires all soldiered and wrapped.

This is the yellow wire with the green stripe

And here is a shot of the dizzy connector

Update:
According to this diagram the yellow and green wire is for the ignitor, now is it for the ignitor itself, or is it for a sensor for the ignitor? My B connector doesn't have a yellow green wire, but my D connector does. In position 19 there is a yellow green wire labeled VCC1-Sensor Voltage for MAP. Now if it does go to that (I doubt it does) and if not where exactly do I need to wire it in?
The ignitor wire is the wire that goes to the internal coil right? Does it just need a constant 12V key on wire running to it? If I am wiring it from scratch is there a "best place" to pull it from? Would it be alright to run a constant to it and have a cut-off switch wired in along the way? I have already always wanted to use some stock switch like the A/C button plus a second switch. Thoughts, concerns, am I totally off base with what the wire is? Am I the only one here who is going to post in this thread?
I have been doing more reading on several sites and I am seeing that it needs a lead from the ICM wire. It however is on the A connector, and it is in position 21 and 22. The other issue with this is it is red and green. Is this what I need to be tying into or what?
Now on this diagram, position A12 is yellow green but it just says DIST. So where did it come from exactly?

This is the harness diagram I am working off of:
What do I need (if anything) with the other end of the shielding?

Here is a shot of the wires all soldiered and wrapped.

This is the yellow wire with the green stripe

And here is a shot of the dizzy connector

Update:
According to this diagram the yellow and green wire is for the ignitor, now is it for the ignitor itself, or is it for a sensor for the ignitor? My B connector doesn't have a yellow green wire, but my D connector does. In position 19 there is a yellow green wire labeled VCC1-Sensor Voltage for MAP. Now if it does go to that (I doubt it does) and if not where exactly do I need to wire it in?
The ignitor wire is the wire that goes to the internal coil right? Does it just need a constant 12V key on wire running to it? If I am wiring it from scratch is there a "best place" to pull it from? Would it be alright to run a constant to it and have a cut-off switch wired in along the way? I have already always wanted to use some stock switch like the A/C button plus a second switch. Thoughts, concerns, am I totally off base with what the wire is? Am I the only one here who is going to post in this thread?
I have been doing more reading on several sites and I am seeing that it needs a lead from the ICM wire. It however is on the A connector, and it is in position 21 and 22. The other issue with this is it is red and green. Is this what I need to be tying into or what?
Now on this diagram, position A12 is yellow green but it just says DIST. So where did it come from exactly?

This is the harness diagram I am working off of:
Last edited by H23_del_soul; Dec 20, 2010 at 05:57 PM.
The extra wire on the dizzy is yellow with a green stripe. The wires I don't have a place for yet are the LG2 logic ground, VSS (this goes on the tranny right?) STS starter signal switch (is this the one that has the little slide on clip connecting to the starter?), and the IGP 1 power ground. Once I get those finished the B connector will be DONE! Well with this connector at least, lol.
Update:
According to this diagram the yellow and green wire is for the ignitor, now is it for the ignitor itself, or is it for a sensor for the ignitor? My B connector doesn't have a yellow green wire, but my D connector does. In position 19 there is a yellow green wire labeled VCC1-Sensor Voltage for MAP. Now if it does go to that (I doubt it does) and if not where exactly do I need to wire it in?
The ignitor wire is the wire that goes to the internal coil right? Does it just need a constant 12V key on wire running to it? If I am wiring it from scratch is there a "best place" to pull it from? Would it be alright to run a constant to it and have a cut-off switch wired in along the way? I have already always wanted to use some stock switch like the A/C button plus a second switch. Thoughts, concerns, am I totally off base with what the wire is? Am I the only one here who is going to post in this thread?
I have been doing more reading on several sites and I am seeing that it needs a lead from the ICM wire. It however is on the A connector, and it is in position 21 and 22. The other issue with this is it is red and green. Is this what I need to be tying into or what?
Now on this diagram, position A12 is yellow green but it just says DIST. So where did it come from exactly?

Update:
According to this diagram the yellow and green wire is for the ignitor, now is it for the ignitor itself, or is it for a sensor for the ignitor? My B connector doesn't have a yellow green wire, but my D connector does. In position 19 there is a yellow green wire labeled VCC1-Sensor Voltage for MAP. Now if it does go to that (I doubt it does) and if not where exactly do I need to wire it in?
The ignitor wire is the wire that goes to the internal coil right? Does it just need a constant 12V key on wire running to it? If I am wiring it from scratch is there a "best place" to pull it from? Would it be alright to run a constant to it and have a cut-off switch wired in along the way? I have already always wanted to use some stock switch like the A/C button plus a second switch. Thoughts, concerns, am I totally off base with what the wire is? Am I the only one here who is going to post in this thread?
I have been doing more reading on several sites and I am seeing that it needs a lead from the ICM wire. It however is on the A connector, and it is in position 21 and 22. The other issue with this is it is red and green. Is this what I need to be tying into or what?
Now on this diagram, position A12 is yellow green but it just says DIST. So where did it come from exactly?

Seriously bro...what are you doing? I finally figured out that you are trying to run all your wires without any of the factory junction connectors from the ecu to the sensors/motor. H22a swap into a 95 EG. I don't know why you would want to do that, but with all this grief you are going through it just seems rediculous. Why have you not purchased a Helms manual? www.helminc.com
1. The ICM wire is the wire that goes to the ignitor on the distributor. OBD1 A21 ICM goes to the ignitor wire at the distributor.
2. There are three wires for the VSS, what wires are you confused on? One is ground, one is power and one is signal to ecu.
3. The STS is the wire that goes to the starter.
4. Logic ground.....does this need explaining???
5. IGP1......does this need explaining???
6. VCC1 does not go to the ICM wire. It is a power ref for your MAP sensor.
Seriously bro...what are you doing? I finally figured out that you are trying to run all your wires without any of the factory junction connectors from the ecu to the sensors/motor. H22a swap into a 95 EG. I don't know why you would want to do that, but with all this grief you are going through it just seems rediculous. Why have you not purchased a Helms manual? www.helminc.com
1. The ICM wire is the wire that goes to the ignitor on the distributor. OBD1 A21 ICM goes to the ignitor wire at the distributor.
2. There are three wires for the VSS, what wires are you confused on? One is ground, one is power and one is signal to ecu.
3. The STS is the wire that goes to the starter.
4. Logic ground.....does this need explaining???
5. IGP1......does this need explaining???
6. VCC1 does not go to the ICM wire. It is a power ref for your MAP sensor.
1. The ICM wire is the wire that goes to the ignitor on the distributor. OBD1 A21 ICM goes to the ignitor wire at the distributor.
2. There are three wires for the VSS, what wires are you confused on? One is ground, one is power and one is signal to ecu.
3. The STS is the wire that goes to the starter.
4. Logic ground.....does this need explaining???
5. IGP1......does this need explaining???
6. VCC1 does not go to the ICM wire. It is a power ref for your MAP sensor.
1. I do have a helms manual, I also have 2 other manuals but they're packed up and in storage until we buy a house and I can get them back out. I believe there is a site online that has one scanned, but I'm not sure where it was, I'll look for it today and bookmark it.
2. The ICM wire, A21 I soldiered into the ignitor wire last night. As far as I know, now the dizzy is done.
3. The reason I was asking about the STS is because the OEM one is a larger gauge than the wire I am using, but the wire I am using is also slightly bigger than the harness wire... that's where I get confused.
4. Logic ground. If it is a ground for the ECU just ground it out, got it. But if it is to ground out a sensor I get confused, I never thought about it being for the ECU and that's kind of what was throwing me.
5. IGP1... sadly I do need it explained. All the research I have done makes me think it is a power wire for the ECU. It sounds like a pretty easy solution, but if it isn't I'm sure it would blow the ECU so I would rather hear it from you first... sorry (I really hate asking so many seemingly simple questions)
EDIT:
One more question. I was looking at the schematics again and the A21 and A22 pins are both for the ICM, what the hell do I need to do with the A22 pin?
Also, 3 wires for the VSS right? One comes from the ECU, are the other just common grounds and 12v's?
Last edited by H23_del_soul; Dec 22, 2010 at 04:35 PM.
3. What size and kind of wire are you using?
4. The logic grounds are on two pins from the ecu LG1 and LG2 that are primarily used for shielding only to the sensors. They are tee'd to the PG at G101 typically. Even though both of these are grounded at the same location, the LG uses the ECU as the drain for this shielding.
5. IGP1 and IGP2 should be key on power, 12V.
and your additional questions...
6. The ICM wire for A22 can be jumped with A21. H22a does this and some JDM ecus too.
7. The VSS wires are 12V, ground and the 5V signal wire. The VSS intermittently grounds the 5V wire to generate the pulsed signal.
4. The logic grounds are on two pins from the ecu LG1 and LG2 that are primarily used for shielding only to the sensors. They are tee'd to the PG at G101 typically. Even though both of these are grounded at the same location, the LG uses the ECU as the drain for this shielding.
5. IGP1 and IGP2 should be key on power, 12V.
and your additional questions...
6. The ICM wire for A22 can be jumped with A21. H22a does this and some JDM ecus too.
7. The VSS wires are 12V, ground and the 5V signal wire. The VSS intermittently grounds the 5V wire to generate the pulsed signal.
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16ga copper wire stock, same as this: http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CHsQ8wIwAw#
I am lost in the sauce... start me out on the LG2 logic ground wire, after it hits the shielding do I just need to find a good ground for it? Is the IGP 1 power ground supposed to be LGP1? Did I just label it wrong?
Can I run a dedicated 12v to a switch and then switch it off after I turn the car off like a theft deterrent? I would like to use the AC switch for that, does is lite up and get power with the key in the ACC position or just the ON?
So just soldier them together, right? After I combine them where exactly do I run the single wire after that?
Well we all know the black wire is the ground, do I just give it a common ground on the body? Is the power wire is straight off any 12v line or the ECU? The last question is where does the 5v wire come from? It would make more sense for the 5v to come from the ECU than the 12v to come from there, but I would like to know for sure since you seem to have helped Honda wire up these cars
4. The logic grounds are on two pins from the ecu LG1 and LG2 that are primarily used for shielding only to the sensors. They are tee'd to the PG at G101 typically. Even though both of these are grounded at the same location, the LG uses the ECU as the drain for this shielding.
Can I run a dedicated 12v to a switch and then switch it off after I turn the car off like a theft deterrent? I would like to use the AC switch for that, does is lite up and get power with the key in the ACC position or just the ON?
Last edited by H23_del_soul; Dec 22, 2010 at 07:47 PM.
16ga copper wire stock, same as this: http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CHsQ8wIwAw#
1. I am lost in the sauce... start me out on the LG2 logic ground wire, after it hits the shielding do I just need to find a good ground for it? Is the IGP 1 power ground supposed to be LGP1? Did I just label it wrong?
2. Can I run a dedicated 12v to a switch and then switch it off after I turn the car off like a theft deterrent? I would like to use the AC switch for that, does is lite up and get power with the key in the ACC position or just the ON?
3. So just soldier them together, right? After I combine them where exactly do I run the single wire after that?
4. Well we all know the black wire is the ground, do I just give it a common ground on the body? Is the power wire is straight off any 12v line or the ECU? The last question is where does the 5v wire come from? It would make more sense for the 5v to come from the ECU than the 12v to come from there, but I would like to know for sure since you seem to have helped Honda wire up these cars
1. I am lost in the sauce... start me out on the LG2 logic ground wire, after it hits the shielding do I just need to find a good ground for it? Is the IGP 1 power ground supposed to be LGP1? Did I just label it wrong?
2. Can I run a dedicated 12v to a switch and then switch it off after I turn the car off like a theft deterrent? I would like to use the AC switch for that, does is lite up and get power with the key in the ACC position or just the ON?
3. So just soldier them together, right? After I combine them where exactly do I run the single wire after that?
4. Well we all know the black wire is the ground, do I just give it a common ground on the body? Is the power wire is straight off any 12v line or the ECU? The last question is where does the 5v wire come from? It would make more sense for the 5v to come from the ECU than the 12v to come from there, but I would like to know for sure since you seem to have helped Honda wire up these cars

2. If you are running the main relay, the IGP1/IGP2 power inputs come from the main relay upon switched power. This is the switched power to your ecu. This also is the switched power to your injectors, IACV, etc. Using the AC switch is going to be complicated. The problem with the AC switch is that when pressed, a ground signal is sent out of it.
3. Make the ICM wire from the coil go to both A21 and A22. Or if you want to just try A21 for now, that will probably work fine.
4. Ground to the chassis. Typically done at the thermo housing. Normally the 12V for the VSS comes from a different source than the IGP1/IGP2...but yes it just needs a 12V switched power. The 5V signal is sent from the ECU. This wire goes directly to the VSS pinout at the ecu. Do not tie this into anything else or run this to 12V power or ground.
1. Haha. Lost in the sauce...All of the shielded wires at the sensors should be tee'd into a good chassis ground and then run to the LG1 and LG2 on the ecu. This can share a common ground with the PG1/PG2 (Primary ground) and is usually at the thermostat housing. The wires from that ground need to be run separately to PG1/PG2 and LG1/LG2.
Ok, I found the PG1 & 2, they are both taped up with LG1 & 2. When I get home (have to go meet with the claims adjuster) I need to soldier the logic grounds together, and the power grounds together right? I will go from 4 wires to 2, one for logic grounds and one for power grounds, but NOT 4 into 1, right? You said they can share the same common ground so you mean the place where the ground out, but they need to be run independently of each other to the common ground... I know I am taking your simple instructions and making them WAY simpler, it's just if I can understand this half as well as you do I can do it blindfolded.
2. If you are running the main relay, the IGP1/IGP2 power inputs come from the main relay upon switched power. This is the switched power to your ecu. This also is the switched power to your injectors, IACV, etc. Using the AC switch is going to be complicated. The problem with the AC switch is that when pressed, a ground signal is sent out of it.
4. Ground to the chassis. Typically done at the thermo housing. Normally the 12V for the VSS comes from a different source than the IGP1/IGP2...but yes it just needs a 12V switched power. The 5V signal is sent from the ECU. This wire goes directly to the VSS pinout at the ecu. Do not tie this into anything else or run this to 12V power or ground.
Last edited by H23_del_soul; Dec 23, 2010 at 04:48 PM.
The VSS sensor goes to the ECU, but doesn't it need to go to the cluster also, does anything else need to go to the cluster as well? Does the cluster get anything else need to be wired in?
Well, ****ing puppy got out of her cage and decided that the best thing out of the whole house to chew on was my harness. She bit half the wires right through at the connector and chewed half of the labels off of the ends. It is by far beyond repair, so I'm taking a few days off from this. Come Monday I will go to harbor freight and buy a new soldiering gun, some color coded wire, and an asston of shrink sleeves. I will start over from scratch with all new connectors and wire coming this next week. If you have any answers to anything I have asked let me know, I'm sure it will only take me about a week to get back to where I was and then I can just keep going till it's finished. By the way, the puppy is fine. As much as I wanted to wring her neck I just nicely put her in her cage and closed the door and counted to 10....about 10000 times.
1. Ok, I found the PG1 & 2, they are both taped up with LG1 & 2. I need to soldier the logic grounds together, and the power grounds together right? I will go from 4 wires to 2, one for logic grounds and one for power grounds, but NOT 4 into 1, right? You said they can share the same common ground so you mean the place where the ground out, but they need to be run independently of each other to the common ground...
2. So the IGP 1&2 are both powers, both grounds or one of each? Can I get away with not running the main relay at all, or is it best to use it? Is it the little black box behind the drivers side kick panel, and is it just a plain run of the mill 4 pin relay? If it only goes to those 1 or 2 wires can I remove it from it's current position and mount it next to the ECU so I can run the wires 6 inches instead of 4 feet?
3. I have it run to just the A21 at this time, the diagram said to depin for AEM EMS install and I don't know if I will be running an engine management later on or not so I depined it. For the time being will I see any power difference with both as to the one?
4. So basically (not that anything in this thread has been so far) I just ground out the black wire, 5v from the ECU VSS wire into the white striped wire, and a 12v switched wire to the plain white wire right?
5. The VSS sensor goes to the ECU, but doesn't it need to go to the cluster also, does anything else need to go to the cluster as well? Does the cluster get anything else need to be wired in?
2. So the IGP 1&2 are both powers, both grounds or one of each? Can I get away with not running the main relay at all, or is it best to use it? Is it the little black box behind the drivers side kick panel, and is it just a plain run of the mill 4 pin relay? If it only goes to those 1 or 2 wires can I remove it from it's current position and mount it next to the ECU so I can run the wires 6 inches instead of 4 feet?
3. I have it run to just the A21 at this time, the diagram said to depin for AEM EMS install and I don't know if I will be running an engine management later on or not so I depined it. For the time being will I see any power difference with both as to the one?
4. So basically (not that anything in this thread has been so far) I just ground out the black wire, 5v from the ECU VSS wire into the white striped wire, and a 12v switched wire to the plain white wire right?
5. The VSS sensor goes to the ECU, but doesn't it need to go to the cluster also, does anything else need to go to the cluster as well? Does the cluster get anything else need to be wired in?
1. The two wires at from the ecu for PG....please run them to all the components that require the "PG" ground as referenced in the manual. The two wires that come from the ecu for LG, please run them to the components that require the "LG" as referenced in the manual. Once you have them tied into their respective components, they can then be routed to a common ground in the engine bay. This is typically located on the thermo housing.
2. See above about PG and what it stands for. The main relay is on the right side of the glove box behind the panel. If you choose to remove it, you will have to run seperate relays for the ecu, fan, fuel pump, etc.
3. No power difference with only running one.
4. Judging by the cluster f$@k going so far, I recommend verifying the wire colors are in the correct location. What color wires do you have on your sensor and what are their locations?
5. The wire that goes to the ECU also tees into the cluster.
[QUOTE=Blown90hatcH;44304869]Holy crap dude....lol. My brain hurts reading your responses. Please remove the word power from the abbreviation of PG. You are confusing yourself. PG call it Primary Ground. It is not a power source at all so please only associate this with a ground.
Between this and the stuff you said earlier I am much closer to finishing this. The only problem is my harness was destroyed so I am somewhat starting from scratch. I am going to go to the junkyard on Wed. and get a whole new harness and cut it all to hell and start over. (see below)
If I am taking this the wrong way tell me, but it sounds like you are suggesting I leave well enough alone and just run it the way it is.
Thanks, one it is
About that, I am going to try to de-pin and use the new harness without and new wire stock. The only thing I am going to have to re-use is the dizzy wires due to the shielding.
Are you talking about the VSS, or others as well. Wed. is going to be my start over day. I am building a new work space (thick poster-board on the carpet isn't the best place to soldier) and will print out the schematics and spread everything out and try to figure this out a little on my own... would be nice to know I did more than just soldier up what you tell me to
So anyway, my new harness... I am going to go to the JY and pull a complete harness, ECU to sensors, to cluster. I will label everything as I pull it so I'm not ****ed when I get home. The biggest thing I need to know is out of all the sensors that come out of the ECU what do I actually need to run. Which ones are not needed, and which ones are impossible to do without? I am going to try and run only the OEM wire so the less I have to cut the better. I am going to do this harness backwards than the last one. I am going to take all the connectors for the sensors and plug them in, zip tie them where I want them tucked and at the length I want them tucked. Then I'll take it back off still tied up and start sleeving it with the shrink tube and making an actual harness. Then I'll cut all the wires to length and soldier it to the harness connector, VOILA! ENGINE HARNESS! I'm going to go ahead and wire the V-tec sensor while I'm at it in case I win the ****ing lottery and can afford a 22 head.
1. The two wires at from the ecu for PG....please run them to all the components that require the "PG" ground as referenced in the manual. The two wires that come from the ecu for LG, please run them to the components that require the "LG" as referenced in the manual. Once you have them tied into their respective components, they can then be routed to a common ground in the engine bay. This is typically located on the thermo housing.
Thanks, one it is

Are you talking about the VSS, or others as well. Wed. is going to be my start over day. I am building a new work space (thick poster-board on the carpet isn't the best place to soldier) and will print out the schematics and spread everything out and try to figure this out a little on my own... would be nice to know I did more than just soldier up what you tell me to

So anyway, my new harness... I am going to go to the JY and pull a complete harness, ECU to sensors, to cluster. I will label everything as I pull it so I'm not ****ed when I get home. The biggest thing I need to know is out of all the sensors that come out of the ECU what do I actually need to run. Which ones are not needed, and which ones are impossible to do without? I am going to try and run only the OEM wire so the less I have to cut the better. I am going to do this harness backwards than the last one. I am going to take all the connectors for the sensors and plug them in, zip tie them where I want them tucked and at the length I want them tucked. Then I'll take it back off still tied up and start sleeving it with the shrink tube and making an actual harness. Then I'll cut all the wires to length and soldier it to the harness connector, VOILA! ENGINE HARNESS! I'm going to go ahead and wire the V-tec sensor while I'm at it in case I win the ****ing lottery and can afford a 22 head.
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H23_del_soul
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Dec 21, 2010 08:37 PM




