This is my first motor build.

First my build
Blox Type B Cams
Blox Dual Valve Springs
Blox Retainers
310 Precision Injectors
Aem Fuel Rail
Skunk 2 Intake Manifold
68 MM Throttle Body Port Matched


Anything Else I Need for the head?
Besides cam gears I have heard some people go by them and other just think there for show

Block
81.5mm bore
Cp pistons 11.5-1
Eagle H Beam rods- I was given these rods . 3 rods are in good condition the fourth spun a rod bearing . Should I get these resized or would it be smarter to get the rod replaced from eagle?
Stock Crank
Acl Main Thrust and Rod Bearings

If the crank needs to be turned how do I know what size bearings I need?

Tuning
Will be tuned on hondata s300




This is my first motor build just looking for some help please leave negative comments out

 

If one of your rod bearings were spun I suggest buying one new rod or selling the three you have. I am not a fan of oversized bearings.

 

Am I able to just give them the letters ingraved into them or do i have to get it weighed?

 

Hey guy word of advice get all new rods and use factory gsr bearings get everything balanced fly wheel ,crank pulleywith bolt and washer, pressureplate, also for the head get it pressurechecked and also resurface and have them check for valve too guide clearance rebump the valve seats and valves also new factory valvestem seals and have them lap inn thae valve so when you reassemble the whole engine itll run cherry trust me youll appreciate it and ur idle will be perfect if you have doubts heres my name im on two v8 magazine car craft and chevy high my name is freddyhernandez look it up and read what the article says ,well good luck and let me know how it runs.

 

thanks for all the help man, what do you think my hp range will be and , whats the difficulty putting the motor together?

 

You should be right around 200whp give or take depending on the tuners ability.

 

You don't necessarily need to get a new rod just because the bearings spun. Take it to a machine shop and get it measured and checked for roundness. If its within spec its just fine to run.

DO NOT TURN THE CRANK! running oversized bearings in a honda motor has proven time and time again to not work. Also the "shiny" coating on the journals is nickel/chromium nitrate which is HARD and will not melt. Without that coating on the crank journals you run the risk of deforming the crank journals when they get hot.

If it was my motor I would run the Edelbrock Performer X IM. Beats the hell out of the S2 piece on the 1.8's.

You shouldnt need a fuel rail or the S300. A chipped ECU on crome or neptune will be sufficient enough for your build. Save some $$ there.

And for power #'s its hard to say. Depends on the tuner, the type of dyno and other factors. When you go down the track they dont put your WHP/TQ numbers on the board, its a trap speed and time. Let those do the talking for how striong your motor runs.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpy_By5aIxM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtTXA9_a8sI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JE7U5l_MoP8

Evans Tuning

Should go into the FAQ's thread if its not already there.

 

I went with the s300 because I will be running nitrous as well was told by my tuner that would be the easiest and safest route for the both of us. Also I already had the fuel rail.. I went ahead and just bought new rods.

 

more questions, Will the oil squirters need to be installed , on those videos they arent shown being installed

Also I bought a used crank and its been polished by machine shop.

And how do I know if my head/ block needs resurfaced?

 

You dont NEED the oil squirters, I delete all mine to increase oil pressure. I buy GE oil jet plugs, they are like $12.
take the head to a machine shop and most will do a square/flat for free. If it need surfaced then they will call you with a price.

 

Hi there, have the same setup except for compression... for now i have a stock JDM GSR with 10.6, by the way i also have an integra GSR... what header are you using?