People who have rebuilt your trans, Chime in!
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I serve phở for my babies
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From: OKC, OK, USA
Hey guys i've got no more than 400 miles on my trans, I bought a full rebuild kit for my 99-00 si trans and an mfactory lsd.
The trans has all new syncs, sleeves, seals, etc.
Currently on Torqo MTF, not the RTF
Before I start slamming the gears at 8,500rpm ish i'll drive around so the oil in the trans gets a little warm.
My question is, how notchy/smooth is it when you guys shift in between gears? Mine goes into each gear fine, I just had a feeling the shifter would slide into each hole more smoothly. Unless my clutch pedal is not adjusted properly? (spec stage 1 clutch) Something isn't right. Lately and every now and then i'll experience a small 2nd gear grind at high rpms when I shift.
So my questions: how smooth is it when you guys slide through the gears? and how do you know if your clutch is adjusted properly?
Also, is there any cons to adjusting the clutch pedal out to far? is there a possibility i can overstroke my slave cylinder/clutch?
TIA!
The trans has all new syncs, sleeves, seals, etc.
Currently on Torqo MTF, not the RTF
Before I start slamming the gears at 8,500rpm ish i'll drive around so the oil in the trans gets a little warm.
My question is, how notchy/smooth is it when you guys shift in between gears? Mine goes into each gear fine, I just had a feeling the shifter would slide into each hole more smoothly. Unless my clutch pedal is not adjusted properly? (spec stage 1 clutch) Something isn't right. Lately and every now and then i'll experience a small 2nd gear grind at high rpms when I shift.
So my questions: how smooth is it when you guys slide through the gears? and how do you know if your clutch is adjusted properly?
Also, is there any cons to adjusting the clutch pedal out to far? is there a possibility i can overstroke my slave cylinder/clutch?
TIA!
The new synchros probably aren't using the full portion of the worn gear cone yet. They could have been resurfaced with 600-grit sandpaper to help out. You didn't mention about replacing the synchro hubs - they could be scratched enough to cause drag, even with the new sleeves. Gear's dogteeth could be bitched up, too. Replacing the washers for the shift detent ***** can also have some effect.
Could be a number of things, but a B-series trans in good condition should be absolute butter. So something is probably a bit wrong/worn.
Could be a number of things, but a B-series trans in good condition should be absolute butter. So something is probably a bit wrong/worn.
Thread Starter
I serve phở for my babies
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: OKC, OK, USA
Everything but the Hubs and gear itself were replaced. Do you think the slight grind will go away?
i remember purchasing a new jdm gsr trans from hmotors and it was butter compared to my old LS trans i had.
I'll try purchasing new washers for the ***** on the trans. would I benefit from a stiffer spring by any means?
and is it possible to overstroke the clutch from the pedal?
i remember purchasing a new jdm gsr trans from hmotors and it was butter compared to my old LS trans i had.
I'll try purchasing new washers for the ***** on the trans. would I benefit from a stiffer spring by any means?
and is it possible to overstroke the clutch from the pedal?
when i put in my new carbon syncros(syncrotech) btw the same as the mfactory/geaspeeds too.
my trans felt a tad notchy on normal driving, but like absolute butter at 8500 rpms. i talked to dave at syncrotech and he told me that on his test trans for the new carbon syncro he found it to be a tad notchy. mine has gotten much better as i built time on the gearbox. im around 5k now and it feels like my completely stock b16a3 delsol vtec with 125k on the clock.
my trans felt a tad notchy on normal driving, but like absolute butter at 8500 rpms. i talked to dave at syncrotech and he told me that on his test trans for the new carbon syncro he found it to be a tad notchy. mine has gotten much better as i built time on the gearbox. im around 5k now and it feels like my completely stock b16a3 delsol vtec with 125k on the clock.
Thread Starter
I serve phở for my babies
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From: OKC, OK, USA
projectTeG: thanks for the chime, did you ever at one point have a crunch grabbing a gear at high rpms? mine comes in goes, but last night it had a bad one.. it felt like the sync is already failing which i'm hoping it's not.
how much freeplay do you have on your clutch pedal?
how much freeplay do you have on your clutch pedal?
i have a question for you ...did you replace your syncro springs or use the old parts?
my pedal has about a 1.5in of free play, but thats just what i prefer on my cable set-up
my pedal has about a 1.5in of free play, but thats just what i prefer on my cable set-up
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Thread Starter
I serve phở for my babies
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: OKC, OK, USA
i used new syncro springs, what exactly do they do anyways?
my clutch is hydraulic btw, and my cable car has about an inch to an inch and a half and the clutch/trans setup in it works amazing
my clutch is hydraulic btw, and my cable car has about an inch to an inch and a half and the clutch/trans setup in it works amazing
The syncro springs get pushed on by the sleeve which in turn pushes the syncro into the gear cone.
What kind of syncros did you use? I've never tried the carbon syncros but ive NEVER had good luck with syncros from ANY bearing kit. Every trans has shifted like **** and grinded. OEM Honda is the way to go.
Preparation and how its built also plays a major part, it makes me worried that you can rebuild it but have no idea how these things work. So i would also double check your work. Scuff the gear cones with 400-600 grit wet, inspect dog teeth and sliders, inspect shift forks for wear, etc. Make sure the syncro springs you installed are the correct thickness.
What kind of syncros did you use? I've never tried the carbon syncros but ive NEVER had good luck with syncros from ANY bearing kit. Every trans has shifted like **** and grinded. OEM Honda is the way to go.
Preparation and how its built also plays a major part, it makes me worried that you can rebuild it but have no idea how these things work. So i would also double check your work. Scuff the gear cones with 400-600 grit wet, inspect dog teeth and sliders, inspect shift forks for wear, etc. Make sure the syncro springs you installed are the correct thickness.
Last edited by Stine; Dec 10, 2010 at 03:09 PM.
The syncro springs get pushed on by the sleeve which in turn pushes the syncro into the gear cone.
What kind of syncros did you use? I've never tried the carbon syncros but ive NEVER had good luck with syncros from ANY bearing kit. Every trans has shifted like **** and grinded. OEM Honda is the way to go.
Preparation and how its built also plays a major part, it makes me worried that you can rebuild it but have no idea how these things work. So i would also double check your work. Scuff the gear cones with 400-600 grit wet, inspect dog teeth and sliders, inspect shift forks for wear, etc. Make sure the syncro springs you installed are the correct thickness.
What kind of syncros did you use? I've never tried the carbon syncros but ive NEVER had good luck with syncros from ANY bearing kit. Every trans has shifted like **** and grinded. OEM Honda is the way to go.
Preparation and how its built also plays a major part, it makes me worried that you can rebuild it but have no idea how these things work. So i would also double check your work. Scuff the gear cones with 400-600 grit wet, inspect dog teeth and sliders, inspect shift forks for wear, etc. Make sure the syncro springs you installed are the correct thickness.
Thread Starter
I serve phở for my babies
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,820
Likes: 2
From: OKC, OK, USA
i went out racing all day last night and i didn't get a single grind. i guess the gear had to form itself to the new sync and sleeve? who knows
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