well im goin to be doing a build on here to help every one put a obd1 vtec motor in to a dpfi civic

lmk what you guys want to no ill be putting up pics in a day or so

 

EVERYTHING! There would be no point in only documenting PART of the project because then it would be like many other threads floating around here.

 

yea i no im goin to i just finished wireing the jumper harness so that will be up in like 5 min

 

easy way to make mpfi

get a jumper harness for obd1 then splice wires like this

a-01 injector 1
a-02 injector 4
a-03 injector 3
a-05 injector 2

then run those wires to the engine bay

what i did is i bought a obd1 full harness so that when i have to run the injectors i can put in the res box easier.

rest up soon need to run to get my arp studs and new ecu

 

now i need some help i cant get the mount on drivers side to line up proerly

 

u cant use the mount thats on the enging from a eg, u need to transfer the mount that is physically on ur old engine and change it to ur z6

 

You'll need to use the mount and bracket from a 88-91 D-Series engine.

EDIT: efjones9 beat me to it

 

lol !

 

yea i thought i had a new one from the guy i got it from turns out he thought that a z6 was in a 93 accord lx so imma go buy a new one i need the b6 correct

 

k once you bolt te motor up your going to need to do some wireing at the same time.

first you need to extend and swap the tps wires you need to change the outter 2 wires so left goes to right and right goes to left. (other wise your ecu eill think that your at full throtle at idle and vissa verssa)

next youll need to extend the iacv 2 wire plug

i extended them both about 4 inches next youll have the 4 wires comeing from the ecu a01-a02-a03-a05 for the injectors soder them in to the correct injector from the obd1 har. ( i figuredd upgrade to obd1 while your swapping them any ways ((it also works for obd0 you will just need to wire a resistor box)) for the obd1 you will not need a resistor box) k after you do that you should have 1 wire from each inj. the color should be yellow/black. from the dx harness youll clip the injector clips and take the yellow/black wires from that and put them together and soder on about 4 inches of wire. After that youll take the end of that wire and run it to the 4 yellow/black wires from the injectors.

next would be to wire the dissy if you did it right you should have a blue/yellow wire and a blue/ green wire left over from the obd1 clip youll need to solder on enough wire to reach the ecu and then cut the harness again to put in the ckp sensor the dx does not have it they should be pins b15 blue/green and b16 blue/ yellow

after that that is all the wireing that needs to be modified from the existing harness.

then after you have the motor mounted and everything put back on the motor i.e. head intake mani headers tranny ect. you will need to hook up every plug from the dx harness i didn have a problem doing so except if you look at the 2 female plugs that should bolt up to the back of the head you will not need them as the d16z6 does not have it.

after that i had to find a upper radiator hose as the 95 civic hose does not work, as does the 88-91 hose. so i went to autozone and bought flex radiator hose it is actually cheaper than a stock hose. lol.

if i did not tell you this would be a excellent time to replace some parts
waterpump
oil pump
head gasket
valve cover gasket
spark plug grament
intake mani gasket
exhaust gasket
cam shaft seal
crank shaft seal
both axle seals
both axles you can use the si axles or dx doesnt matter much because it is the same trans
clutch
flywheel

at the same time i got my head checked by napa machine shop and valve comp test all for 22 bucks so it is well worth the price not to mention that if you dont trust the guy you got it from or you had it sitting in peices as i did both for 40 dollars more (if it needs it) you can get them to trun it down if it is wropped in any way. and they will also hot tank it to clean it. you c an get this done to the block as well but i did not feel like takeing down to another machine shop to wait another couple days to get it back. haha.
but it is a good measure to get that done.

after all that you should not have to do any maitanace for some time.

then after all that you wire the vtec sub harness comeing for the conv harness that you have wire the knock sensor as well as the o2 sensor

to the vtec solenoid you ground the wire comeing out of the top of the solenoid its self then it does not matter to what wire you will wire the vtec oil pressure wire as well as the vtec solenoid wire

that should be most of it

start it up and i hope this helps i could not find a thread like this
it will also work for doing b series ctr motors and any other dpfi to mpfi obd1 swap tha tyou can do.

lmk if you need to know any thing or want to see how i did it

 

pics

 

You're swapping a b16a ef9 to a d series?

 

I think he is swapping a D16z6 in place of the stock motor. Is that correct?

 

i sure do hope so

 

yea i swapped a d16z6 from a d12b2 i have a differnt crx that is b16b

 

But it was an ef9?

 

yea it was a 91 civic hatch only prob i got is the dumbass i got the motor from desided to put glue or some thin in the idle adj screw

 

Here in the US every '88-'91 Civic is an EF9 or CRX is an EF8.

Just ask them and they'll tell you!

 

cool thats good to no

 

I guess you just didn't get the memo. :-)

Please define: EF9

 

lol i kept thinking i was right but every one said it was either EF9 or ED6 i never new what ed6 is i assume its the four door model or 2 door trunk model lol but oh well thanks for the help man