B18CR... idles fine, drives fine with light throttle and lower RPM's, just over 5k RPM if you give any more than light throttle it back pops, won't accelerate, and stumbles. Fresh plugs, new cap and rotor, fresh gas, ignition timing is spot on, TPS is adjusted to spec, no CEL. Plug wires look fine too. With light throttle it was able to cross over into VTEC but a stab of the gas and its rough and sounds like gun shots lol. Pretty sure its ignition cut and not a fuel cut. If you stab the gas between idle and maybe 4k its fine. So what could be the problem?

 

sounds a bit like my thread

 

Does your engine management have a 2 step control on it? perhaps it was accidentally activated. Any aftermarket ignition systems? Check those areas if they are there

 

Its all OEM, ECU is the stock JDM P73.

 

that is very strange. did that ecu go with that engine?

 

yes, JDM ITR engine, JDM ITR ECU.

 

same thing happened to someone i know, he was using regular gas, using premium?

 

Yep its premium, actually about 96 or 97 octane.

 

Tried plug wires today, thats not it either. The only things left I can think of are ICM, coil, and the fuel line. My fuel line has not a complete kink but its crushed a bit. Everyone says ignition cut not fuel cut. Fuel cut is like a wall, this is like a sputter but you wont accelerate. Heck even the old guy down the street heard me go by and later stopped by. He said "ya got sonmething ****ed up with your ignition" He kept saying about grounding out but good wires were swapped and still the same thing.

 

Could be the ignitor then. I highly doubt its the coil itself. Changing distributors is an option but you may have another older worn ignitor as a replacement. The dealer sells the ignitor, though it is slightly costly.

 

I was reading up though and symptoms for a bad ignitor was erratic RPM or the RPM wont register at all. Mine it will hit this cut but the RPM will stay about the same spot, no jumping around. I see the ignitor is $181.85 and the coil is $86.59. Considering the price of both I need to figure out a way to test to see if those are the problem or not. If I can find a complete known good dizzy thats the easiest route. If that doesnt work then I assume its fuel related. If it does work then I buy replacement parts for the dizzy.