want torque on d16z6
95 civic ex all stock, i'm looking for STREETABLE torque. would like torque numbers level with horsepower. looking to make 140-160 @ the wheels. any input on how to build the sohc motor to do this?
check this link out, they talk about just a piston change
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?p=37683218
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?p=37683218
Welcome to HT
i remember there being this mod where you'd add another cam to the engine, increase displacement and it adds torque + hp across the band
i think they called it a B swap mod lol
in seriousness you wont make much torque or anything on a sohc without boosting it
try to swap something with alot of torque from the get go. LS or B20s would be a good step for torque
i remember there being this mod where you'd add another cam to the engine, increase displacement and it adds torque + hp across the band
i think they called it a B swap mod lol
in seriousness you wont make much torque or anything on a sohc without boosting it
try to swap something with alot of torque from the get go. LS or B20s would be a good step for torque
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/all-motor-%2A-sohc-%2A-chime-1771904/
and sometimes its cheaper and easier to buy a sohc and build it than a b series. in some areas b series are still 2 grand
but if you live in my area you can find gsr's for like 800-1000 (long block no tranny) and complete swaps from 1200-1600
i know a D can make some good numbers, i've got a z6 in my ej1, did research out the *** on it :\
i did see that thread before but didnt see any interest from it with my budget
alot of people making those high numbers have fully built sohcs that i have no doubt assuming they dumped alot of money in it
and yeah depending on where you live, i believe you'd get better bang for your buck swapping to a B than building a D
i did see that thread before but didnt see any interest from it with my budget
alot of people making those high numbers have fully built sohcs that i have no doubt assuming they dumped alot of money in it
and yeah depending on where you live, i believe you'd get better bang for your buck swapping to a B than building a D
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i know a D can make some good numbers, i've got a z6 in my ej1, did research out the *** on it :\
i did see that thread before but didnt see any interest from it with my budget
alot of people making those high numbers have fully built sohcs that i have no doubt assuming they dumped alot of money in it
and yeah depending on where you live, i believe you'd get better bang for your buck swapping to a B than building a D
i did see that thread before but didnt see any interest from it with my budget
alot of people making those high numbers have fully built sohcs that i have no doubt assuming they dumped alot of money in it
and yeah depending on where you live, i believe you'd get better bang for your buck swapping to a B than building a D
I too have faith in the D-series, but they just don't have the displacement to make decent N/A power without quite a bit of work. Sure you could achieve numbers in the area of what the OP wants, but you'd sure have an easier time with other engines.
If you really want to use your z6, go for it. Just know the power could be had much easier (I vote F-series swap!).
EDIT: OP if you still want to look for more info on a D-series N/A build, builthatch, Spade, Bense, and Bisimoto are your friends. There is a thread around here where Bisi actually posted his dyno chart for his N/A D-series. I believe it is the highest anyone has gotten (just shy of 200 whp). I'll post it if I find it again.
If you want to add some more driveability fun to the car look at adding a street cam and cam gear such as the Bisimoto ($300) along with his header ($300). Upgrade to a F or H series throttle body m($20 junkyard) and possibly a Y8 intake manifold ($30 junkyard) both port matched. Use a generic intake pipe with k&n filter ($50) with a heat shield and some 2.5" exhaust that you like ($200). After this have someone tune your setup with Hondata, Chrome or some other engine management (price varies from $50-200). So for about a $1K dollars your car will have a bit more pep not sure any solid numbers though. Also try to help your car lose some weight to make what you already have more efficient.
from the links and info you've given me, i've got a lot more choices than i expected. i think it might be possible with stock parts from different engines. Hero, i love those bisimoto headers, but i want to keep a/c and p/s. their cams look pretty good, though. should i enter the world of head porting and milling to achieve my goal?
If you want to make 160 wtq, forget a/c or p/s. They are going to just rob you of power. You'll need to spend some money on a header and yes you will DEFINITELY need to open up the head to flow more.
Making a good deal of N/A power on the D-series is no cake walk. You will have to open it up to make adjustments and replace internals.
After money spent...it seems like a swap would make sense...you can get them for around 800 sometimes less sometimes more depending on where you are for a b series.
To each their own but I don't see keepin a d unless FI is being considered.
x2 on what was said about AC and PS. "Big" numbers from a n/a d will never show a build that retain these.
If you do keep it...without going overboard on costs...I'd say get a good cam and gear...decent intake...decent header & exhaust...and call it a day after the tune. Anything after that you'll almost be surpassing the cost of a bull b swap.
To each their own but I don't see keepin a d unless FI is being considered.
x2 on what was said about AC and PS. "Big" numbers from a n/a d will never show a build that retain these.
If you do keep it...without going overboard on costs...I'd say get a good cam and gear...decent intake...decent header & exhaust...and call it a day after the tune. Anything after that you'll almost be surpassing the cost of a bull b swap.
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