What's the best way to remove screws that are stripped on the rotor? I was about to change my friends rotors and got the tire off and the screws were stripped. How do I remove those stripped screws?

 

I usually use a punch or air hammer to get the threads to let loose of the disc. Then drill a hole in the center and then use an easy-out or similair tool. You may have to re-tap the threads when all said and done. Or just grind the broken threads flush with the hub and don't use a screw when replacing the disc.

 

Thanks for the advise. When I did my ROH conversion on my 95 accord, I didn't bother reusing the screws. I think they are designed to keep the rotor on while it's going down the assembly line.

 

Those screws are the biggest headache when they don't come out, haha. But yeah as Eskie said, the best way is to just drill them out and not to replace them. Just use a lug nut to hold the rotor in place when reinstalling the caliper and pads.

 

Snap-On has a sweet attachment for an air hammer for removing them before they get stripped, When I worked for Honda a couple of the other guys had them and they worked really well. Once they're stripped though drill them out.

 

Yea those are nice. To bad I wont buy any more snap-on tools. LOL I use a center punch and a hammer to turn them out. (or snap em off on the really gnarly ones)

 

correct i have the tool in my toolbox now.

 

+1. The tried and true method to loosen many types of screws or bolts. Inexpensive and quick.

 

 

What does hitting the screw with a center punch do? Just loosens the screw up, and unscrew it with a screwdriver?

I had this problem on my wife's Fit, and I got impatient and just drilled them out.

 

Works kinda like an impact driver, you don't hit the center of the screw though, you hit it on the edge and drive the screw back around.

 

A center punch and a hammer will loosen bolts, screws, nuts, etc. that does not have anything for a screwdriver, etc. to bite into. You find an area on the screw/bolt/nut and make an indentation in it for the center punch to bite into. Then you use a hammer (usually a ball peen hammer to limit sparks from the striking) and hit the center punch at an angle, counter-clockwise to loosen the screw/bolt/nut. The same methodology can be used on rotor screws, shear bolts, etc. Here are images regarding shear bolts on an ignition switch. Same can be done on shear bolts of a TPS, etc.

For rotor screws, a cold chisel will also work. Center punches are relatively cheap, some only $1 - $3.

 

+1... Haha.. posted at same time.

 

Your explanation is a lot better though, diagrams and all.

 

That makes perfect sense. I was thinking that you hit the center punch straight on, and couldn't figure out how that helped. But, this makes sense now.