Well my car a while back thru vss code...and nothing happened...

Well yest i start it up and notice the speedo isnt working...well ok vss must of gone finally...

So i drive it for 40 min to run my errands.

I start my car up and let it idle for 1 min to warm up and go to leave a parking lot...once i reach the end of the row it high idle surges 4-5 times then stops...then i drive another minute..get to a light and the CEL light goes nuts..and the car dies...takes 3 tries to start it up..runs 30 secs more dies...im very low on gas so i make it to gas station tank up...drive another 20 secs...bam kills on me in 2nd gear..restarts and i can drive it 4 min to my parents house were its parked...

Now it wont start...and there was a ticking noise coming from the dash...changed the main relay and ticking is gone but car wont start...i do the paper clip trick to read the codes being as my car is a 99...The cel stays on but the abs light is flashing now...it did 2 of them.. 1 long and 4 short next code is 8 long 1 short...

Now this car had a faulty alternator back in may/june that was fixed and the ecu was replaced since as well with another stock odb2a ecu.

Any help/ideas is much appreciated...

 

Why are you running an obd2a ecu when your car is an obd2b?

 

00-01 is odb2b
98-99 odb2a

 

OBD scan it fool

 

I dunno andrew, that seems weird.. your vss probably isn't making good contact.. a simple way to fix these problems, with making bad contact is, You take a piece of speaker wire or whatever wire you have laying around and cut the copper wire out of it, and place a few pieces in each connector and that should work out fine.. as far as anything else, that sounds like either another bad ground, or your ecu is going out again..

 

sounds like a bad ground to me. I had the same issue (drove it fine and came back 5 minutes later to start it) and it wouldn't start. I grinded down all the contact points on my chassis and it started.

 

so a bad ground would cause it to throw CEL? and which ground? the one that goes to the block? or battery ground?

And im ordering ANOTHER ecu..will make #5 this year alone...again this happens 2-3 weeks after i sell my spare odb1 p72..

 

There's a number of grounds that should be thick, and tight.

1) water thermostat housing, this is your ecu ground / main ground, it should be on top.
2) tranny to chassis
3) valvecover to chassis
4) manifold to chassis

 

Just for the f*** of it check the connector under the back seat and see what it looks like. If its corroded just hard wire it as you dont need a disconnect there. Everything past it has its own disconnect point. If it is corroded and you fix it, that is one less thing that can be the problem. I have seen that connector cause ecu's to short-out when it gets corroded. Dont ask me how though.

 

Under the back seat? That could be the issue perhaps..cause my seatbelt clip on the seat always seems to look nasty..ill have to check that out...or have help to check it out...cause i dont want to break anything which im prone to do it seems...

 

well odb2a ecu fits in my car and i got an odb2b one by mistake once...and it did NOT fit nor work...

 

Actually youre correct. I miss read

 

All good man it happens.

 

it just occured to me that the time before this one that i drove it both of my headlights just happen to blow and they were 2 months old...this is leading me to believe that the alternator is going bad again...

Going to call my mechanic that changed it and have him test it before i plug in the replacement ecu and blow it too...

 

You can test the alternator for free at Orielly's Autoparts Store if there is one near you.

 

Sounds like you found yourself an electrical nightmare

 

there are none really near my parents and the car wont start currently...alternator is under warranty i confirmed today...so will either have him pick up the car and then test it or just remove it sometime this week and bring to him to test

thats putting it mildly im afraid...think its ruined integras for me...

 

How I test my alternator for low voltage outputs is by starting the car, usually by jump start of course if the car wont start by itself. Once its up and running I loosen up the positive side terminal on the battery then take it off with the motor running. If the car dies then you have a weak alternator. If it doesnt die then your problem lies somewhere else.

 

i think its overcharging again which is why by car wont start...fried the ecu and my headlight bulbs...

 

Could be, when my alternator was overcharging the first thing that went was my battery. It started to smoke and leak battery acid. My cluster lights were also bright as hell.

 

battery was purchased last decemeber before alty went nuts the first time...

 

At first I didnt know my alternator was overcharging. F'ed up my first battery, thought it was just the battery so I replaced it with my cousins and seconds later his started to smoke so I shut the car off. Took the alternator in for a test at Oreilly's and it was pushing out a **** load of voltages. Gotta love their lifetime warranties on their alternators. LOL this is my third one already

 

yea mines got a lifetime warranty from my mechanic..its just to get the car to him...and for him not to dirty it up since it just got detailed...gravel/limestone lot ftl