So i am new to hondas. Just traded my 75 jeep DJ (thats right, not a cj like everyone else, a DJ) for a modded crx. It has a b18a1 engine swap in it and he told me its built to run 10psi. I also have a turbo for this car that i want to get in but i cant get it to run! Every time i turn the key the 15a ecu fuse blows. I've read around on the forums and found that many times this is the injectors, o2 sensor, main relay, ecu, and/or bad grounds. I have already checked most of my grounds and replaced/made sure the above list of potential issues was not causing the fuse to blow. I have been reading the forums left and right when i get in from working on it and try everything they tell me. I was working out there tonight and found 2 loose wires right below the distributor. They were just jerry-rigged in a circle type wire mount with bullet connectors. I was wondering what these 2 wires are and if/how they could be causing a problem. Also any other insight to this problem would really save my rear. I have been working on this problem for over a month and i'm starting to get a little frustrated with the issue. I do realize this is my first post to this forum but I have read through what I think is all the info about this issue on the site so that is why I am actually creating a thread after all my headaches.

 

ok so your gonna want to check your intake gaskets on your manifold, and then pull the leaves out.... hope this helps, good luck

 

allright, really need help on this one... anyone got wiring diagrams for a b18a1 engine?? Ive decided to pull the fuel pump and test the wiring of that, and then test all other wiring. Also i am going to double check my timing. Any other things I am overlooking?

 

did it ever run since the motor swap?

im guessing the fuse blows when u turn to ON (not START or ACC) ?

check all wiring @ the ECU under your passenger side carpet...

 

You need the wiring diagram for the car not the engine.

Like CivicSD said check for short at ECU wiring,check all wiring you can see for rub through that could be shorting out.

 

so i finally found the problem. turned out to be a shorting out fuse within the fuse box. never seen it before but replaced it and all the systems were up and running. I found it by pulling fuses to see when the ecu fuse would pop just before i was sure i would take out the dashboard. luckily i found the problem and the ecu fuse is intact. I have one more issue although which is kind of a bummer. I tried to start it and found it was a no go. Pulled the fuel line where the filter is to check if i was getting fuel and found out i was but it still wouldn't start without starting fluid. even on starting fluid it would only run for a couple of seconds though so no gasoline was in the engine. I decided to pull the injectors and found out that they were completely dry. they got fuel but wouldn't fire. This lead me to think it was the electrical system so i checked the leads and found about 20volts going to the injectors. My question is is 20 volts too much for the injectors and now they are fried or could it be that my timing has gone to complete ****? or possibly it is something i have completely overlooked? thakns for the help and sorry for not getting back and posting (forgot my password.)

 

It sounds like you might need a resistor box if you don't have one on there already. Check the impedance across an injector. If it is 1-4 ohms, then you need the resistor box. If it is 10-15 ohms, then you don't need the resistor box.

 

so i have a resistor box in there right now and now i am getting 12v at the injectors. tried to delete the resistor box today just by connecting all the bullet connectors together and had the same problem (not sure how well i did the delete because i wanted to be able to connect the resistor box back up if it didn't work without permanently damaging it.) also i swapped ecu's and had the same problem. another note is that the ground from resistor box is newly replaced so i don't think that could be a problem. any more ideas?