So I am going to get a system soon and I plan to have two amps one is going to be running 750 watts RMS and another is going to be running 500 watts RMS. Now I plan to do the big 3 upgrade and this car is already boosted so I would like to be sure the extra draw will not cause performance issues. The car is already making 450whp on stock ignition although I am not 100% sure if it will make a difference.

I am okay with getting an upgraded battery I would like to avoid a HO alternator since space is already limited and I do not want anything that will take more space.

So here are the main questions.

Will installing this system have a impact on the car as far as the ignition system?

If so will adding a upgraded battery+ the big 3 upgrade fix the issue?

If so what batterys can anyone suggest that will fit in the stock location? I have heard that the yellow tops are trash and some have suggested stinger and kintec as well.

Thanks in advance.

 

You've given a lot of info, but honestly, we still need more. I know you've said you will be pulling up to 1250 watts of power btwn your two amps, but what we really need to know is the current rating of the amps. There is always a chance that the amps are not rated at the CEA2006 compliance rating, and the power could be bogus. What are the model of the amps, and what type of car do you have? I know you said you are running the stock alternator, but without knowing the car, that info doesn't do me much good. What other electronics are you running? To answer your question, yes, an excessive current draw can rob power from you ignition system. A battery plus big 3 upgrade will help, but only to a certain point. If the amps are pulling more current than your alternator can produce, it will eventually wear on your battery. I won't put down any specific vendors, but I will tell you that I've had really good luck with kenetic vs other brands for power storage...

 

This is all going in a 2000 Acura Integra, the only other things I have on the car are the headunit which is a pioneer headunit everything else is stock.

The amps I am using are both kicker amps and they are the 10ix5004(500 watt amp) 10zx7501(750 watt amp) I plan to put a 12in l7 on the 750 watt amp and use two sets of 09qs652 speakers. On the site it said the speakers need 100 watts rms per speaker and the sub needs 750 watts rms.

I got this info off the kicker website so I would have to assume the numbers would be correct, but if I am wrong please correct me. I would rather be safe than sorry.

 

big batt and big 3 should be enough for 1250w

btw, if you didn't already get it, ditch the l7(they need huge boxes to perform properly) and the components. They're wayy better stuff out for the price they go for.

 

Kicker does rate their equipment at CEA2006 regulations so, Ohms law tells me that 1250 watts of power at 14.4v (your cars voltage with the engine running), The amps could potentially consume 86.81 amps of current, on your stock alternator, which is rated at 90 amps of output. Now, of course you're not gonna be listening to your music at full blast 100% of the time, but your amps will have the potential of consuming every bit of current your alternator will produce, excluding 3.19 amps (do you think that would be enough for you ignition system? I dont.) So, with that info, I'd make your decision from there. (I'd personally be upgrading my alternator). But, like Edzy says, for the price, there is better equipment out there, unless there is something specific tying you to the kicker product.

 

Well I am getting all of this stuff through my job pretty cheap, but I am aware there is better but kicker is the only one doing the accommodation.

As far as batterys and HO alts, any suggestions? I can find little info about alternators for this car and a lot of the links on here are old and dead..

 

xs power for batt, kicker makes good wiring so use that

go 0 gauge from batt to distro, then 4 to both amps

how much is the discount on the prices for the amps, subs, and speakers?

 

Understandable. It wouldnt hurt to run the amps on their own at first, and see how your electrical performs. Like I said, you won't be maxing out that power all the time, so you could be fine. If you notice a huge decrease in electrical performance, then look into an alt... Ohio generators will rewind your stock alt for a decent price, that way you can keep the stock size, but get the extra current that you feel you may need. If you wanna replace the whole alt, ive had good luck with stinger alts...

 

Alt def isn't needed

1 big batt upfront should be enough

 

Well, Im def not in the mood to get in a debate on this, but ive already explained that the stock integra alt puts out 90 amps of current, your kicker amps have the potential to draw 86.81 amps of current. I wouldn't go as far as to say, an "Alt def isn't needed". by making that comment, we are assuming that honda/acura decided that 3.19 amps of current is all that is needed to appropriately power the electrical system in that vehicle, and they are just giving you an extra 86.81 amps of current for fun. On top of that, you stated you are putting out 450 HP on a stock ignition system, so you have a concern there. But, like I said, you won't be maxing out your electrical system on a regular basis, so, you may not notice the need for an alt, but Im not gonna throw an opinion out there with no factual basis. The facts state that you need to upgrade your alt if we are speaking for electrical purposes. If I told you that you didn't, I would either not know what Im talking about, or be lying to you. From that point, I leave the decision up to you.

 

get this for battery I got it and its great.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...mpaign=froogle

 

the stinger batt is rated at 35aH, an optima yellow top is rated at 41aH, while, as edzy said, the xspower d5100r battery is rated at 60aH which to me seems like the end all be all.

 

Edzy...i supported part of your statement...so i don't need a counter argument to this...

you say that kicker is avail through work...do you work at Best Buy?? sorry man...had to ask.

Joey supported that your about to pull 86 AMPS of current if you like to listen to it loud. is there a chance your headlamps and what not will dim?? sure!! do you know for sure?? nope. i have 2 suggestions to make sure.

1) hook up everything and see what happens. like Joey said...you're either gonna be WAY under your estimated amp pull and you're not gonna dim

or

2) you're gonna dim. and at that point...upgrade your charging storage system. are you only dimming on hig bass pulls or are you dimming at all time? if dimming occurs at all times, then you need a bigger alternator. if dimming only occurs when a long high output bass lick pulls then you only need a cap or external power cell.

 

Wow didnt think I would get so many replys, and yeah I do work at best buy and I will take the advice of people here I will just hook it up and see what happens, but I will budget a alternator just incase. I would hate to lose a motor to ignition issues due to my sound system.

Ill check into the xspower batteries also do they drop in or do I need to modify the bracket or tray?

 

the d5100r is drop in. it's a group 51 battery which is what most hondas use, and it's reverse terminal layout which our cars also use

 

But yeah, instead of the l7, i would go for 2 or 3 8" solo classic's

Got to hear some a couple weeks ago..mighty fine drivers

 

this thread is about power upgrades, not his selection of product

 

get the XS power D5100r battery, i would look for an alt and even add a second battery, maybe a d925 in the back, or relocate your batt to the back and use a bigger one. http://mechman.com/store/index.php he has some of the best prices on batts and has a couple different alternators for your car. if the alts are not listed, just email him, they have them.

 

don't be affraid to think outside of the box. when it comes to alternators, see if you can find a local alternator/starter shop that can rewind. reason i say that is most h/o alts are in the 400+ price range and don't always have stock characteristics. a lot of h/o alts don't have very good low RPM charging rates. when i lived in phx, we had a local shop that would rewind an alt for $30 plus $1 per amp. and would only wind that alt to a safe output current. on toyotas we used to run 130 amps since the truck required so little current to operate.

 

Is rewinding the alt the same thing as getting a ho?

 

In theory yes, because you can rewind to a higher output, while maintaing all factory characteristics,