so basically i have a
jdm b18c-r 98 specs
the block is bore to 81.50
with usdm p73 A0 050
stock IM with hondata gasket
comptech icebox
4-1 jdm itr headers
custom 2.5 piping with 18in magnaflow resonator
AEM fuel rail and FPR


so basically i wanted to change my LMA cause it was pinging whenever i rev from 2.5k-3k then it'll stop after it pass 3k rpm

i also bought a set of brand new bc spec 3+ cams and cam gears, brand new supertech valve springs and retainers, b16 LMAs


after everything was installed we started up the motor, (btw he did drop 2 valve keepers in my motor, idk if that does any different) did the timing and everything as the car was warm up my mech went to rev the motor and the timing belt snap in half and flew out.

turn out it bent 4 of my valves on cylinder 3 and 4

so we took the head off and sent it to portflow so he could replace the valve stems with supertech flat valves. after 2 weeks of waiting we got the head back we changed out water pump, new tensioner, and put the new timing belt in. so i basically have everything brand new in the head. we installed it and did the whole process again and it still jumped timing but this time the belt didnt snap tho. we also put back the stock cams to see if the bc spec 3+ was the cause of that but it still have the same problem. idk whats wrong with my motor :[



please help!!! ive been carless for almost 3 weeks. . .
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I am going to refer you to the hybrid section. Not many of us USDM Type R owners have JDM Type R swaps, so we might not be the best people to ask about a JDM Type R motor that's also been built. This belongs in the hybrid section.

 

disagree, all motor would be the best spot to go. only a few guys in the itr section have actually built motors. the above post is an example of that. short of the piston dome the jdm and usdm engines are the same.

one thing you always always alway do when you build a motor is turn it over by hand multiple times. in fact you always do this when you setup the timing belt. you didn't do something stupid like spin the motor clockwise when you set the timing belt did you? if you did you'll be off a few teeth when you fire it up and the motor spins COUNTER clockwise and shoves a valve or 8 into the pistons breaking your belt and causing the situation you just described.

 

if i remember right i think my mech did turned the timing belt clockwise because i think when he did the valve adjustment and miss the TDC on some cylinder and probably turned it clockwise instead of turning it the other way. thanks idrivesideways for the output. ill post it up in the all motor forum for more output. btw how can i fix the problem?

 

if you set a timing belt, or if your mechanic set it clockwise he should comp you for the valvejob and new valves you will need. you basically put valves into the pistons due to the cams being out of time. you were at least a few teeth off if it's set up backwards

 

yea i got all new valve stems and everythin is brand new. but we're still trying to figure out whats wrong wit the car cause it wont rev past 3k or 4k it would just jump and shut off.

 

stop the car, pull the timing cover. rotate the motor counterclockwise and make sure all marks line up. if they do your next step is checking ignition timing. you have to have the car warm and the jumper jumped to set this. then, line up the dots on the crank with your timing gun by twisting the distributor. it's also possible the cams could be binding. does the engine spin over easily by hand?

 

the engine spin over easily when its cold but when its warm up its harder to spin

 

oh boy

oh god


wow

two words "machine work"

you know what causes that? things being too tight. it could be the bearings, piston to wall clearance or the cams in the cylinder head. if you set bearings to factory spec especially the small side of it and don't line hone the block or verify everything is perfect tolerances that would work in a machined block or brand new one won't

that seriously sounds like you have too tight of clearance somewhere. if the engine is torn down you might be able to visibly see it since there's a good chance you'll see scuffing. metal expands when it's hot.

 

oh shitt.. so u think the valve job could cause this? cause my car was running fine before we took off the head or anythin. or probably the mech make it perfect tolerances?
is it fixable?? :[ faccc me..

 

if it was fine till the head came off my first guess is the cams were torqued too tight.

 

the cams torqued to the cam gears?

 

btw i found out that my barrings are gone.. so basically my block is gone..

 

i just meant cam caps, if those are too tight you can get cam seizure. if your bearings are gone my first theory was correct. machine work too tight. someone tried to set the bearings at the small end of honda clearances in a used block i assume. this is what happens sometimes. when you guys rebuild motors always favor the loose end of the specs. running bearings toward the max factory clearance is smart in a used motor since you don't have a perfect crank or block 99% of the time. loose bearing clearances also are worth a couple hp over a tighter motor.

there's an old saying. if a motor is too loose no one will know, if a motor is too tight everyone will know.

your block might not be gone. a line hone may fix the damage down there. find a good machinist {not the guy you just used} and ask.

 

thanks alot for your help! much appreciated and im just gonna buy a different block and sell my old one and see if anyone wants it

 

any used block should have machine work done just like yours will need. if you want an easy one shot deal to fix your car $2500 will put a jdm type r at your door.

 

imma check out a jdm gsr block with the same pistons as the one i have right now you think i'll be making the same hp? it still have a gsr crank tho

 

it's virtually the same thing if you have R pistons. the thing i HATE the most about hack up parts swap engines is unless you know the guy doing the work SO many of them have problems. personally i will only do the following

1. buy from acura
2. buy from a real jdm importer
3. have a real machine shop do my work

that's it, flat

following that advice will save you so many f'ing hours under the hood it's not even funny.

you could probably sell all those parts and get at least half of a complete jdm itr. it also raises your resale since you have an all stock honda itr engine that's unmolested. DO change the timing belt at a minimum if you buy one though.

 

i will build you a fresh motor 0 miles,gsr block jdm itr pistons ported b16 head all new parts fresh and start up warranty no joke $2,700 shipped.

 

lol im already lookin at a jdm gsr block with USDM itr pistons built from some shop called RPM around victorville it has zero miles
and i dont think i have enough money for a brand new block tho it'll be nice cause then i'd have a brand new type r but yea.. :[ no money...