ok in theory if i hit my throttle and let it rev up while under the hood i should be able to see my IAB diaphram open/move? am i wrong about this? i recently broke one of the nips off of the vacuum tank and made a new one out of 2" pvc pip w/caps on either end w/nips nipple nipple nipple nipple lol..... but seriously wtf is going on here? i have the line that comes off of the IM, with the IAB check valve going to one end of my make shift tank and the other end with the air reducer or whatever it is going to the bottom "nip?" nipple nipple nipple nipple of the IAB solenoid.... the IAB diaphram is going to the top nip of the IAB control solenoid?

NOW why isnt it working when im hitting the throttle.. do i have the vacuum hoses mixed up from top to bottom on the solenoid?? im about to just say F it im tired of messing around with it and just buy a damn skunk2...

do i have to have the old vacuum tank plugged up? FML

 

you have too many words. Mister. LoL all I heard was Nipple.

FIRST OF ALL. Get a Vacuum wiring diagram, you can either search on honda-tech or on google for it.

Second, make sure the box is plugged in. And it doesn't open until like 4800 Ish so you need to Rev it Kinda high to see if it's working. I'd have somebody in the car Do it so you don't over Rev.

 

i was using the throttle body directly.... and it definatley went over 4800. dont know if i should just take the reducer out thats in the "upper hose" thats on the Solenoid and if that doesnt activate it at all then i would guess iwould have to take an ohm meter to it already looked at the diagram and have studied to thuroughly.... im not dumb nipple nipple nipple nipple lol

 

There's a good possibility it won't open without the car in motion, like VTEC. You would probably need to get the car on jack stands then have someone put it in gear and rev it while you watch.

 

^ No, IT WILL OPEN with just the throttle, parked. You can do it yourself, It's easy. The guy needs a vacuum schematic and go over everything.

 

well i have the vacuum diagram and all the hoses are ran properly..... when i had my cylinder head rebuilt i also rebuilt my intake mani.. cleaned, lubricated, new gaskets. followed the honda tech shop manual book step by step... im going to have to look into the book again... its only the size of about 2 phone books

 

ok well spent some more time today trouble shooting it through the flow chart a little.... havnt gone to the extent of getting the ohm meter out yet... but i might have found my problem. there is a "reducer" that goes on the line.. right now i have it between the vacuum tank and the IAB solenoid on the bottom nip. but does the "reducer/air restrictor" or whatever its called go between the diaphram and the solenoid? .......

when i was following the flow chart it told me to pull the hose off of the diaphram and check for vacuum and there was none. but the tank i built definately holds vacuum even at idle. no leaks at all. so what im trying to get at.... if i have the reducer between the tank and the solenoid is it not giving it enough vacuum to open?

for now out of pure annoyance i took the vacuum line straight from the tank and hooked it directly to the diaphram so now its always open

 

 

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the "check valve" goes from the the intake mani to the block box, it needs to be pointing in the right direction. Make sure your looking the wiring schemetic properly to tell which way the check valve goes.

If you can't figure it out, just try switching it back & forth. AND FYI You can watch the secondaires close right on start up. Just take a look at the lever, and then start the car. You'll know it it closed or not.

If they Do close, let the car idle or warm up to operating temp, and rev it up with your throttle cable/plate. Rev it high, and see if it opens.