What's the best front and rear camber kits for my EK HB????? Thanks.

 

If you really think you need camber kits, the skunk2 pro series are pretty good. The hardrace/special projects ones are pretty stout looking, but I can't vouch for the quality and they look to me like they're gonna have clearance issues. None of them are really great, but if you need the adjustability...

For the back, save your money and just use washers and good quality longer bolts.

 

I ordered all my suspension parts from Weksos and they recommended the wicked tuning arms, they are the cheapest besides blox, but the quality seems awesome, they have quality ball joints and bushings and I have been running my for 8 months without any signs of slipping.

 

Washers and new bolts. Make sure to get good bolts though.

 

Waste of money.

 

thanks for telling him why its a waste... ur a great help



I think hardrace is the best... If you search u will find some people having problems with #1 BLOX and some have problems with omni/skunk2

 

I had skunk2 b4 my buddyclub and i like the bc better.

 

theyre not needed unless you are tracking the car and need to make adjustments or you want to fit some low off/wide wheels and tires or something. the natural camber curve and a toe alignment are all you need.

<---- lowered with no camber kits, perfect tire wear

 

Cool, thanks all. I was just worried about tire wear. That was my main concern. I used to have yellow neuspeed springs on my EG with 1.5 coils cut and it was slammed!!! Tire wear killed me though. Didn't want the same problem on my new EK.

 

Excessive tire wear in 9/10 cases on lowered honda civics is due to toe, not camber.

 

Yep.

 

Yikes.

 

Best camber kit...OEM

Go with that ek forever guy said. Don't be a future h-t horror story post.

Spend the money on getting a proper alignment.

 

Thanks again for some good advice!!!!!!!!!!!! Can't believe I was gonna drop like $200+ for a set. Hallelujah for Honda-Tech !!!!!!! Hehehe.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/no-you-do-not-need-camber-kits-2614449/

edit// skunk2 suspension products are terrible from everything i've heard, although ive never used them. they use inferior bushings and wear/break extremely easily.

 

hmmmm

 

skunk2 front camber has been on my car for the past 5 years and 60k miles with NO issues what so ever

 

I've used Skunk2 camber kits on my SI and I used to track it weekly and drive it pretty aggressively. Never once have I ever have any problems with the craftsmanship or durability of the Skunk2 parts I've used on my cars. The only reason I got them was because I was running coilovers and they were set pretty low. None of the shops around me at the time could give me a proper alignment without them.

 

Grow a pair. Tell your local shop mechanic he's slow and to do what you ask him to. I hate mechanics who pull the "I'm a mechanic" card. A lot of mechanics will do that just to squeeze more labor time out of you.

 

Better yet... grow a pair and learn how to do your own alignments.

 

Yeah you never hear people say I just got some new oem suspension parts and they shredded after 4 runs lol

 

I'ved used Skunk II. The Ball joints can sometimes fail...just replace them.

The bigger point here, and I'll reference the "you don't need camber kits" thread is that those who believe that bad camber simply affects tire wear have a lot of reading to do.

Static and dynamic camber is absolutely vital to good handling, period. Ride height affects static camber...static camber affects dynamic camber or the camber curve...static and dynamic camber affect RC location and migration and RC - roll center - ABSOLUTELY affect roll moments and hence how quickly tires are loaded.

correcting camber is much more than just fixing bad tire wear. If you don't care about handling, pay no attention to anything I wrote. For those with SLA setups...that design gains camber in bump. If static camber is 3 degrees neg where will it be with 5 degrees of roll? And what is your rate of roll? A car with very stiff springs needs less neg camber than one with softer springs. Fixing camber isn't one size fits all. What happens when one wheel hits a bump with a vertical tire? What happens when a tire with 3-4 degrees of camber hits a bump? We get camber thrust...the wheel literally moves the car sideways...what has happened to RC in this instance? These are important questions to answer if you want to drive a car that reacts the way you intend it to. The purpose behind installing heavier rate springs is to give you more control...why would you then give up that control by aimlessly selecting ride height and or camber values? Makes no sense to me at all.

I say buy the skunk II kit and be prepared to replace the ball joint about every two years. I purchased a kit about 10 years ago, cannot remember from who, and it used the stock Honda ball joint. I never had a problem with this kit...but, you had to buy both stock upper control arms, press out the ball joitns and press them into the adjustable arm's bracket. I sold them along time ago thinking I wouldn't need them again...

Make sure you use Blue Locktite on the four allen bolts and torque those properly! If your car is slammed all ball joitns will wear out prematurely...if you drive long enough and hard enough. There is only so much articulation avaiable in a ball joint.

 

i have the pro series plus arms and im lowered on eibach sportlines. right now im running -.5* up front and -1.5* out back. Only complaint is the squeak in the rear because the bushings cant be lubed but i can deal. The ball joints just went bad after 16k miles and i bought them used so im unsure of previous mileage. Im perfectly happy with them