camber kit for rear on ek hb
11-21-2007, 08:48 AM
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camber kit for rear on ek hb
i need a camber kit on my rear and wen i google some products i see a few different types some control arm types and some are smaller like an adjustable rod, i dont need adjustability. i just need the wheel to be at 0 or straight up and down. im not very suspention savy so some help would be awesome!!
view bump please.
-b-95pEk
view bump please.
-b-95pEk
11-21-2007, 08:55 AM
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: camber kit for rear on ek hb (b-95pEk)
omnipowerusa.com
look at suspension camber kits, they have a rear camber kit thats not too expensive. You probably are going to pay about that much at the dealership. I use these and they work just great. You can put it to zero, but i would put a little below zero.
look at suspension camber kits, they have a rear camber kit thats not too expensive. You probably are going to pay about that much at the dealership. I use these and they work just great. You can put it to zero, but i would put a little below zero.
11-21-2007, 08:58 AM
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Re: camber kit for rear on ek hb (b-95pEk)
11-21-2007, 09:14 AM
#6
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Re: camber kit for rear on ek hb (b-95pEk)
Honestly you do NOT need to buy a camber kit to correct camber in the rear of your EK. Also don't get caught up thinking the camber has to be zero - actually you WANT about -1 to -1.5 degrees of rear camber. It helps cornering, and when the toe is correct it will not wear the insides of the tires at all. Hell Honda allows a full -2 degrees of rear camber on the 96-00 Civic.
It might sound ghetto, but trust me it's far from it:
Competant alignment shops that deal with a lot of hondas should carry longer bolts with the same thread pitch, and shims to go in between the rear upper control arm and the chassis to push the top of the wheel outward, which correct camber. Different thickness shims achieve the exact degree of adjustability needed to fix the camber.
I've done HUNDREDS of Honda/Acura alignments and used the shim trick countless times. I'm sure there are detailed pic intensive topics on h-t on how it's done too.
Longer #16 bolts and shims to go behind the #10 in this pic does the trick fine:
Don't spend over $100.00 if you don't have to.
Lastly do NOT buy the shorter lower control arms to correct camber. they throw off the geometry and make you have to buy those upper camber kits and adjustable toe kits just to get the camber and toe within spec.
It might sound ghetto, but trust me it's far from it:
Competant alignment shops that deal with a lot of hondas should carry longer bolts with the same thread pitch, and shims to go in between the rear upper control arm and the chassis to push the top of the wheel outward, which correct camber. Different thickness shims achieve the exact degree of adjustability needed to fix the camber.
I've done HUNDREDS of Honda/Acura alignments and used the shim trick countless times. I'm sure there are detailed pic intensive topics on h-t on how it's done too.
Longer #16 bolts and shims to go behind the #10 in this pic does the trick fine:
Don't spend over $100.00 if you don't have to.
Lastly do NOT buy the shorter lower control arms to correct camber. they throw off the geometry and make you have to buy those upper camber kits and adjustable toe kits just to get the camber and toe within spec.
11-21-2007, 09:23 AM
#7
Former Moderator
Re: camber kit for rear on ek hb (B18C5-EH2)
Poop I also meant to include this very important info too:
NEVER install a camber kit and correct the camber without also having a 4-wheel alignment done too!
Many people think installing a camber kit and getting the tires straight up and down will fix the tire wear, but unless the TOE (how the tire is steered left, right, or perfectly straight) is adjusted simply correcting camber without also fixing the toe KILLS tires far worse than if you never added camber kits in the first place.
Changing the camber a little changes the toe a lot. So in other words either install the kits (or the bolts and shims) and have a shop align the car the same day, or ASAP, or have a shop with an alignment rack install the stuff and align it at the same time.
NEVER install a camber kit and correct the camber without also having a 4-wheel alignment done too!
Many people think installing a camber kit and getting the tires straight up and down will fix the tire wear, but unless the TOE (how the tire is steered left, right, or perfectly straight) is adjusted simply correcting camber without also fixing the toe KILLS tires far worse than if you never added camber kits in the first place.
Changing the camber a little changes the toe a lot. So in other words either install the kits (or the bolts and shims) and have a shop align the car the same day, or ASAP, or have a shop with an alignment rack install the stuff and align it at the same time.
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11-21-2007, 10:33 AM
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Re: camber kit for rear on ek hb (B18C5-EH2)
thanks i dont quite understand how to do what your telling me, although i understand the concept ill just have to get down and dirty and go look for myself, huge thanks guy!
11-21-2007, 10:49 AM
#9
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Re: camber kit for rear on ek hb (b-95pEk)
I'd take a picture of my own 1992 hatch that has the rear shimmed to correct my camber, but I don't have my diggy camera with me today. I'm pulling my wheels off to mount new tires, and I'll also be realigning it so it'd be the prime time to take and post pics too.
11-21-2007, 12:04 PM
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Re: camber kit for rear on ek hb (B18C5-EH2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Poop I also meant to include this very important info too:
NEVER install a camber kit and correct the camber without also having a 4-wheel alignment done too!
Many people think installing a camber kit and getting the tires straight up and down will fix the tire wear, but unless the TOE (how the tire is steered left, right, or perfectly straight) is adjusted simply correcting camber without also fixing the toe KILLS tires far worse than if you never added camber kits in the first place.
Changing the camber a little changes the toe a lot. So in other words either install the kits (or the bolts and shims) and have a shop align the car the same day, or ASAP, or have a shop with an alignment rack install the stuff and align it at the same time.</TD></TR></TABLE>is it difficult to align a car that is dropped
NEVER install a camber kit and correct the camber without also having a 4-wheel alignment done too!
Many people think installing a camber kit and getting the tires straight up and down will fix the tire wear, but unless the TOE (how the tire is steered left, right, or perfectly straight) is adjusted simply correcting camber without also fixing the toe KILLS tires far worse than if you never added camber kits in the first place.
Changing the camber a little changes the toe a lot. So in other words either install the kits (or the bolts and shims) and have a shop align the car the same day, or ASAP, or have a shop with an alignment rack install the stuff and align it at the same time.</TD></TR></TABLE>is it difficult to align a car that is dropped
11-21-2007, 12:32 PM
#12
Former Moderator
Re: camber kit for rear on ek hb (raphael)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raphael »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it difficult to align a car that is dropped</TD></TR></TABLE>
In my opinion, no. Shops are lazy and sometimes just ignorant of what it actually takes to get a lowered Honda aligned properly.
For refernce these cars were aligned 100% perfectly with an acceptable amount of camber, and 100% perfectly even wearing tires.
Wife's old Hatch:
Note the almost tucking of 195/50/15 tires.
My current car at two different heights - first one is almost tucking 195 series 15s, while the second is on 205s:
I'm sure I can round up some more pics of lowered cars I've personally aligned, but you get the idea.
Actual degree of difficulty in aligning lowered Hondas depends on the following:
1. Exactly how low is the car?
Tucking tires might look cool to some people, but it makes correcting camber, even with a proper kit installed, impossible because camber kits push the top of the tire outward. Cars that tuck tires would then scrape/cut the tires on the fender wells if you correct the camber.
2. Does the car have a body kit or even front lip that makes getting the car onto the rack difficult/impossible w/o removing said body parts?
3. What kind of rack is it, and do they have long sturdy boards to assist in getting the car up without scraping?
4. If the car requires camber correction what type of front kits are they?
Some kits are way easier to adjust, while others are a ******* PITA. Achor bolt kits like SPC ******* suck to adjust, while the sliding balljoint kits are super easy. Some top access Skunk2 kits are easy to adjust, while the upside down adjuster types are harder.
5. Does the shop even know what the expletive they're doing?
Some kits require special tools to adjust them, and even with the tools they can be a bitch to adjust, namely SPC upper anchor bolt type kits.
For reference my shop charges $118.00 to do a complete, 4-wheel alignment on a lowered Honda including shimming the rear camber, adjusting front camber kits, and getting toe specs dead even perfect at all 4 corners.
In my opinion, no. Shops are lazy and sometimes just ignorant of what it actually takes to get a lowered Honda aligned properly.
For refernce these cars were aligned 100% perfectly with an acceptable amount of camber, and 100% perfectly even wearing tires.
Wife's old Hatch:
Note the almost tucking of 195/50/15 tires.
My current car at two different heights - first one is almost tucking 195 series 15s, while the second is on 205s:
I'm sure I can round up some more pics of lowered cars I've personally aligned, but you get the idea.
Actual degree of difficulty in aligning lowered Hondas depends on the following:
1. Exactly how low is the car?
Tucking tires might look cool to some people, but it makes correcting camber, even with a proper kit installed, impossible because camber kits push the top of the tire outward. Cars that tuck tires would then scrape/cut the tires on the fender wells if you correct the camber.
2. Does the car have a body kit or even front lip that makes getting the car onto the rack difficult/impossible w/o removing said body parts?
3. What kind of rack is it, and do they have long sturdy boards to assist in getting the car up without scraping?
4. If the car requires camber correction what type of front kits are they?
Some kits are way easier to adjust, while others are a ******* PITA. Achor bolt kits like SPC ******* suck to adjust, while the sliding balljoint kits are super easy. Some top access Skunk2 kits are easy to adjust, while the upside down adjuster types are harder.
5. Does the shop even know what the expletive they're doing?
Some kits require special tools to adjust them, and even with the tools they can be a bitch to adjust, namely SPC upper anchor bolt type kits.
For reference my shop charges $118.00 to do a complete, 4-wheel alignment on a lowered Honda including shimming the rear camber, adjusting front camber kits, and getting toe specs dead even perfect at all 4 corners.
11-22-2007, 09:45 AM
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Re: camber kit for rear on ek hb (B18C5-EH2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I'm pulling my wheels off to mount new tires, and I'll also be realigning it so it'd be the prime time to take and post pics too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
is it necesssary to realign the car when you get new tires? since the old specs were set to the old set of tires? the tech at the alignment shop said that i should come back for a realignment when get my new tires on the car.
is it necesssary to realign the car when you get new tires? since the old specs were set to the old set of tires? the tech at the alignment shop said that i should come back for a realignment when get my new tires on the car.
11-27-2007, 05:14 AM
#14
Former Moderator
Re: camber kit for rear on ek hb (actek23)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by actek23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it necesssary to realign the car when you get new tires? since the old specs were set to the old set of tires? the tech at the alignment shop said that i should come back for a realignment when get my new tires on the car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Unless the car is aligned in the first place with some really badly unevenly worn tires then no you shouldn't HAVE to realign your car when you get new tires.
It's certainly not a bad idea to get a realignment when you get new tires just to make sure the specs are still good, but tires themselves don't change the alignment specs.
Also most people don't have sticky, short wearing tires like a lot of us enthusiasts have, so for those people who get 50,000+miles and/or 4-5 years on a set of tires I would always realign the car when new tires are mounted if it's been over 2 years since the last alignment and tires were done.
Potholes, bumps, etc. etc. can all knock alignment settings out of specs.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Unless the car is aligned in the first place with some really badly unevenly worn tires then no you shouldn't HAVE to realign your car when you get new tires.
It's certainly not a bad idea to get a realignment when you get new tires just to make sure the specs are still good, but tires themselves don't change the alignment specs.
Also most people don't have sticky, short wearing tires like a lot of us enthusiasts have, so for those people who get 50,000+miles and/or 4-5 years on a set of tires I would always realign the car when new tires are mounted if it's been over 2 years since the last alignment and tires were done.
Potholes, bumps, etc. etc. can all knock alignment settings out of specs.
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