lol so i was given a crx for helping with some motor work from a freind..he warned me it har run over a curb in a accident.he took it to a frame straighting shop who said they couldnt try to fix it cause it was cracked and were afraid it would rip the car into peices on the machine..i said blah i can fix anything i couldnt see any obvious damage to trailing arms or rear suspenion.but tonight i figured id better dig a little deeper before i go ordering 500$ worth of lexan and investing ALOT of labor into this car..
and this is what i found now..can this be fixed? the pass side tire sits outward at the top..unlike most lowered cars where they go in..
if i grind off the undercoating and throw a NICE bead of weld will it be ok?
id assume i can fix the tire issue with adjustble trailing arms and camber kit for rear..or is it not worthy of being a track car? i plan on trapping around 120mph when its all said and done...and i dont want to have a insecurity about doing so...i have another rex i can swap my shillze into so dont think your gonna hurt my feelings...I NEED TO KNOW! my buddy is a hell of a welder!
thoughts? advice on getting tire to sit right? car has ground control coilovers with eibach springs..stock otherwise a sway bar..
will the weld hold assuming my buddy and me are as good as we say

 

the more i look at it compared to the otherside..it just look like it shifted and is not cracked at all? i think ill throw a bead around that and all the other joints on that side,but i need some advice from the honda guru;s

 

Not an expert but that looks nasty. Best of luck with it anyways.

 

Don't mean to be a dick but I know thats how its going to come off.....Based on the fact that you don't know the proper terms for positive or negative camber, and think that trailing arms are adjustable......I would honestly just part it out. If a REPUTABLE body shop refused to fix the car there is a good reason for that. I'm not a body guy, but if they're afraid to repair the car for everyday street driving.....you think you can slap a good bead on it and have it handle track conditions at 120mph? you're either VERY ballsy or not real educated.

 

it will be fixed in a day or 2 ill post pics

 

lol another person who assumes im a 16 year old kids who knows nothing about cars,cause i didnt remember the correct terms for positive and negative camber?
im 31 have fabbed my own roll cages,been involved in several "back-half's"
and have built and raced everythign from a 12 sec montecarlo to a saturn on spray down the track...the damage here is LOOKS worse then it is...we work on aerospace parts for a living...it's not a logical place to crack based on the shape of the part and the stresses that are put on it,like i said ill post pics of the reinforcement we will do this weekend

 

Well like I said I knew what I said or how I put it would offend you even though it wasnt my intent. The honest fact is there are WAY to many people getting into WAY to deep of projects on this site and then get over their head with $$, knowledge to do it right, or knowledge to deal with the troubleshooting ability to deal with problems that come up along the way. No one knows any backround of everyone on here. However, I would give people the same advice reguardless of age based on what I read. I was a UH-60 crewcheif/ mechanic for 6 years but I don't bring any of that up as a reference as my credibility or skill during working on cars. For me it has nothing to do with uderstanding the structural rigidity and and design of a unibody. However, if you've done back-halfs, roll cages ect. i'm not sure which part you need help or advice on. If it was me and I was deadset on keeping it and using it though I would just try to do alot of cross measuring and check for "diamondism" and shoot from there. Nothing I said is me trying to stir you up, **** you off, or take away from your skill. I was genuinely just giving you my honest opinion based on the first post that I read. Also just to quickly answer your question about your rear camber: The arm you need to worry about changing is the "upper arm" you could technically consider it a control arm. Usually people will use washers behind the bolts mounting in order to fix their excessive negative camber back out. They do make ones that adjust very similar to how tie rods adjust. I have no idea though if they'll adjust they amount you need cause i'm not sure how much positive camber you have. Based on where the damage is though I'm guessing your camber problem is because of your lower control arm mount. Something has smacked it and pushed the lower control arm inward. Other then that I would tear your rear brakes apart and check your spindles and all of it. There could also be a chance that it destroyed/ distorted your wheel bearings making it sit like that. Those are definately the things I would check.

 

i got it fixed...welded that seam..just as insurnace,,but me and my buddy both agreed unless the car was wrecked again.it was nothing to worry about other then the tire aighnment issue...pulled apart entire rear suspenion..the side that was damaged has a VERY bad bearing..so both bearings/hubs getting replaced. can someone set me in the right direction for adjustable lower rear trailing arms,so i can fix the tire issue?
THANKS..im out to grab some dinner ill post pics when i get back

 

i think its kind of strange, you have the ability to fix this and the knowledge it seems, why did you post this and then basically ignore everybody's input? why didn't you just fix it?

 

you would only assume that there is only one spot thats damage. its like crushing a can of soda, one side will bend while the other side stretches.

as for your "adjustable lower rear trailing arms" there isn't anything that can do that. you can adjust the camber of the tire with an after market kit. what is wrong with the rear tires? pictures?

maybe your rear trailing arms are bent.

 

rear trailing arms are fine i checked them vs a known good set,and im not trying to make this a DD just a drag car that will get trailered to and from track,and i understand what your saying about one side will bend while other stretches,and im content nothing else is damaged or will get worse...the weld reinforce where the light "buckiling" occured.
my tire on passengers side where the we welded has positive camber even with a nice drop..and drivers side has negative camber wich is more on que for a dropped car.
so will the ingallis kit get me some what back to true? i need the drivers side top to go out and passengers side to go in at top,anyone know how many degree's they allow for adjusting?

 

I thought you said your buddy was a "HELL" of a welder? You know you weakened all the surrounding metal with the heat of welding right? If you were going to fix that you should have at least reinforced it with a "fish plate" or something.

 

its a track car it will be fine for the purpose were using it for..it was done veryslow and let cool before carrying on..
ive found the camber kits will adjust -2* i think that will get me close enough for my needs,anyone know any tricks/ideas for more negative camber?
shy of fabbing our own lowers.wich we might have to end up doing in the longrun

 

yea i dont get it, you ask opinions then ignore them all and do whatever anyways. that weld looks like chewed bubble gum lol..and saying adjustable trailing arms makes me LOL. you say this isnt gonna be a daily but rather a track car so no worries? id say that running this car on a track where your gonna drive like a madman is WORSE than it being a DD, just saying.