Main bearing cap replacement
I have a block with a cracked cylinder. I have another gsr block but it has no bearing caps. can I put the bearing caps from my original gsr block in the bare block that I have? what would I need to do to make it work? Can I use a different upper bearing than lower bearing?
see from factory if you buy just a block it comes with the caps and you cant just buy the caps only so Im not sure if there special for each block or not. I dont want to say yes or no bc im not sure let see if anyone else has any ideas. I work for honda so I know you cant just buy the caps.
Of course you can use the MAINS.. but you MUST MUST get a """"LINE-BORE"""""" ,
if you dont want an issue but you dont really really really DONT have to if you are on budget..so... (dont expect another 100K from it tho)
although im sure people will say you dont... and this is why...
BECAUSE the bearings MATCH the crank... not the block.... (on teh crank side)_
Imagine when they forged the block somewhere in Japan , the manufacturer uses the same cast for all their blocks,,( SO the blocks are the same) , then the ROBOTS MIC out the cranks and assign bearing sizes...(thebearing differences between a b c d e whater is ten thousands of inches whateever)
unless its a type r than some guy named Yee-won Shoo does it.....
SO lets say if you get your crank machined for a spun bearing, they over size the bearings for the rods, same thing if it happened to the CRank mains bearing.... they would fix the crank and oversize the bearing for the thinner crank, at that section ( like from 2.5" orig and the bearing ****s up.... now they polish or cut it and its 2.33" cirum....)) not give it a line bore every time... unless there was damage..
so the thing is without the machining, the mains may not be as perfect perfect ROUND a match as their original..
but i say ****the line bore,, unless you got it, and might as well get ARP Main studs for it..
GOT IT????
if you dont want an issue but you dont really really really DONT have to if you are on budget..so... (dont expect another 100K from it tho)
although im sure people will say you dont... and this is why...
BECAUSE the bearings MATCH the crank... not the block.... (on teh crank side)_
Imagine when they forged the block somewhere in Japan , the manufacturer uses the same cast for all their blocks,,( SO the blocks are the same) , then the ROBOTS MIC out the cranks and assign bearing sizes...(thebearing differences between a b c d e whater is ten thousands of inches whateever)
unless its a type r than some guy named Yee-won Shoo does it.....
SO lets say if you get your crank machined for a spun bearing, they over size the bearings for the rods, same thing if it happened to the CRank mains bearing.... they would fix the crank and oversize the bearing for the thinner crank, at that section ( like from 2.5" orig and the bearing ****s up.... now they polish or cut it and its 2.33" cirum....)) not give it a line bore every time... unless there was damage..
so the thing is without the machining, the mains may not be as perfect perfect ROUND a match as their original..
but i say ****the line bore,, unless you got it, and might as well get ARP Main studs for it..
GOT IT????
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