Ive been noticing a fairly strong vibration at idle on a 250k engine. I had someone look at it and asked if they would check the motor mounts for me. They said the front motor mount has a crack in the rubber part. They then quoted $150 to replace the front motor mount.

so 2 questions...

1. Would that possibly cause a shaking vibration in the steering wheel at idle?
2. Sound like a fair price?

 

1. Yes
2. No, but thats because I'd do it myself for $11

 

I was under the car changing the oil last night and took a look at it. Whats the procedure for getting that mount changed out, and where's are you getting a motor mount for $11?

 

www.rockauto.com

$11.11 plus $5 shipping

I pm'd you the place to get instructions


I'm ordering a front and a rear from there this week for my 96 if you need a write up I'll try to remember to do it

 

This the part for the front you were talking about? The mount looked a little different to me last night while under the car, but then again I was staring up at it. Seemed like more rubber on the original.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=315475

Also I did look at the service manual and I wasnt sure how many parts need to be disconnected before the engine should be jacked up. Battery and all hoses? Maybe I should let the mechanic deal with this.

 

I would supect the computer controlled rear engine mount if its an automatic. You did not state if it was an auto or not.

 

Yep its an automatic.

 

Then you rear mount is busted most likely. They are computer controlled and use a vacuum-hydraulic system to adjust the stiffness of the mount. The rubber cracks, fluid leaks out. Toast.

The front one, on my car when I replaced it I removed the upper rad hose, mount bracket and mount. I used a scissor jack on the transmission bellhousing to support the engine.

 

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...+MOUNT+%284%29

 

The rear mount does not "break". The arm connected to the vacuum pod gets stuck usually. I would connect a vacuum pump to the mount to see if the arm moves when vacuum is applied. It should move when the motor is above 1500 RPM thus making it a solid mount. Below 1500 RPM it "acts" like a conventional mount that has damping properties.

 

It has been years now, but I am going to finally get this fixed.
Here is a pic of the front motor mount which has definatley broken apart




I cant get a good look at the rear mount to see how bad it may be, so I was planning to replace the front for now and see if it gets better.

I found the OEM part here

http://www.tasauto.com/Product/Detai...0841&d=340&p=1

and rock auto has a few from Anchor which looks odd, doesnt have any rubber on it
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...475&cc=1167410

and Beck Arnley
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...523&cc=1167410

Is it best to go OEM on this?

Also, in order to change this I will need to jack the engine up.
Do I need to disconnect anything prior to raising the engine?
How much should I raise the engine?
Where is the best place to place the floor jack to the engine to raise it?

I have ramps so I was going to drive the car up onto those.

 

How did that work out?

 

That is how the mount is, a sideways 'V'. Kinda hoopty looking, but hey it works for stock.
Your call. OEM will return it to like new condition. The Anchor and other brands will work, will they last as long as the OEM *shrug*
Just the mount. Personally I would just remove the through bolt from the mount, and then remove the bracket from the engine. Now you have all the room in the world to remove and install the mount. Can't remember if the fans are in the way of removal.
I would raise it enough to remove weight off the mount itself. Although since it is already broken, you just need to raise it enough so when the new mount is installed you can line up the through bolt.
Use a block of wood under the oil pan or transmission. You really are just trying to rotate the drive train enough to install the new mount and through bolt.


Loosen/remove bolt #26.
Remove 2 x bolt #19, and bolt #35 which should allow you to remove bracket #7.
This will allow access to removing the mount from its enclosure.
Remove 3 x #20 bolts.
Remove #9.

 

Thanks Mad Mike, I did have to remove a few other things to get to the bracket.

I removed:
the upper radiator hose
the overflow container so I could get to the fan connector to disconnect it
the plastic shield/guard that covers the underside of the front of the car so that I could get to those screws that hold the fan at the base (which were a PITA) and the fan that is closest to the battery

Then I followed your steps and got to the mount that fell apart.



I did get an OEM part from the local Honda dealer that price matched the TAS auto online price of $41.

I got it all back together and it does still have some vibration with the AC on but not as bad as it was. There might need to be some other mounts replaced. I will check around for prices on replacing the rear mount if its bad. I dont think I want to deal with that one myself.

 

I'll try to remember to do it

 

Replacing the front did not cure it, made a small improvement so I took it to a shop and had them look at the rear motor mount and transmission mount and driver side motor mount. I was told they all need replacing.

So I ordered the parts from Rock Auto and plan to do the transmission and driver side my self,but the rear I am going to let the shop do it for $240. Said its a little over a 3 hr job.

Does it matter in which order these 3 mounts are installed?
I was going to install mine first and the have them do the rear mount last.