When I pull plug wire there is no affect on idle so I know it's not firing.I pulled the plug and it was not fouled and no gas on plug. the plug is black in color. I tried a new plug and a new plug wire with no luck. I am getting a spark against the valve cover if I pull the wire. I think it is a fuel issue. How do I check the fuel injector to rule it out?

 

I'd just swap it with one of the other injectors and see if the other cylinder is firing.

 

I swapped the injectors and it made no change. I did a compression test and the results were 155,35,35,175.My engine is toast.I pored some oil down cylinder2 and the pressure went up to 150psi. It also sprayed some oil out of the plug hole in cylinder 3 during the test. Looks like a blown head gasket between the two cylinders.

 

Might be bad rings that does not seal to hold compression or it might have some bent valves in that cyl. Thats what I'm thinking for now but it might be something else like the ignition in that cyl?

 

better check valve clearance?like now!!!

 

The valve clearance checked out good. I adjusted the valves about a week before the car started running crappy so I was worried I messed something up.

 

I don't think loose valve lash would cause it. Maybe more like mis-fire or minor unstable idle for valve clearances.

 

i had that same problem a week ago so i took my head off to look and i had a hole in a valve so i got a new rebuilt head for 250 with a year warranty off ebay honed my cylinders new rings and pistons, all new belts gaskets and seals and a week later runs like new and my car was putting up a code for random multiple misfire, take the head off and look that is the only thing left to do, it should take you one hour and thirty minutes to do, but you goto take it off soon before you mess your block up, and to rebuild 250 for the head pistons rings bearings 150 full motor gasket and oring set 80 all from ebay, so for 480 you can have a new motor, assuming you have all the tools, if you got a half inch breaker bar with 14mm socket you can take the head off, then you would need a press for the piston pins, then cylinder hone, and ring expander pliers,but first you look behind the head its on the back right top corner, for your bore size mine was AABA,then you need your crank bearings i was CCDDD then grade 3 the piston rod bearing and size, thats all to get the right size,if you cylinder walls are good you dont need to rebore just hone, its not that much work about 40 hours from start to finish it took me, also i can send you a copy of the factory service manual it would be a big help if you dont have one already

 

When you squirt oil and the compression goes up to normal that means the piston rings are worn.

 

lol ya all that work is no big deal. Piece of cake.

 

for me i didnt think it was alot and that way i know it will be done correctly and save thousands a garage would of wanted about 4000 to all that and a month to do it, i work on my friends cars good times, also i love the first start up after a rebuild its a good feeling...