Stock JDM B18C P72 Valvetrain
Hi all, here is my situation, won Stage 2 BLOX camshafts with Vision gears on Ebay auction so was wondering whats my next step in upgrading my B18C head?
Do I have to upgrade Valves?
Springs with titanium retainers?
will I be able to use these cams in the future if I decide to go boosted?
For now engine as it is bone stock SiVTEC B18C JDM with 10.6:1 compression ratio from factory, everything stock in the engine apart from big cold air intake and 2.5" straight trough exhaust on stock 4-2-1 teg header and stock GSR intake mani.
It is my DailyDriver and im doing about 400km's per week, sometimes less sometimes more. MPG is not bad as I'm not driving it slow I manage to get 30-32MPG on very mixed driving.
I was planning socket my ECU and chip it then get wideband O2 sensor and road map it myself if all goes by the plan...
what are you'rs opinions on this Idea throwing BLOX stage 2 Cams on my B18C?
What MPG could I expect from my car after al done?
Would I take away much drivability of it doing this upgrade as for a DD?
What else should I upgrade in my engine bay to go right way and stay N/A for now?
Thanks
Do I have to upgrade Valves?
Springs with titanium retainers?
will I be able to use these cams in the future if I decide to go boosted?
For now engine as it is bone stock SiVTEC B18C JDM with 10.6:1 compression ratio from factory, everything stock in the engine apart from big cold air intake and 2.5" straight trough exhaust on stock 4-2-1 teg header and stock GSR intake mani.
It is my DailyDriver and im doing about 400km's per week, sometimes less sometimes more. MPG is not bad as I'm not driving it slow I manage to get 30-32MPG on very mixed driving.
I was planning socket my ECU and chip it then get wideband O2 sensor and road map it myself if all goes by the plan...
what are you'rs opinions on this Idea throwing BLOX stage 2 Cams on my B18C?
What MPG could I expect from my car after al done?
Would I take away much drivability of it doing this upgrade as for a DD?
What else should I upgrade in my engine bay to go right way and stay N/A for now?
Thanks
as far as I found out Valve angle job, dual high comp.springs , retainers and the rest its a must. Ok so lets forget about this one for now, but what about compression ratio keeping stock 10.6:1 ?
and is there any feedback on BLOX stage 2 cams
plus - are VISION cam gears good to trust?
and is there any feedback on BLOX stage 2 cams
plus - are VISION cam gears good to trust?
what you actually need is
1. the correct valve springs for those cams
2. the matching retainers
3. an obd1 ecu with some type of tuneability, the hondata s100 is my low cost fav
4. a better header and exhaust would bring the power up but are not mandatory
5. a 96 spec jdm itr header looks like a gsr manifold but is much larger sporting a 2.5" collector. if you want to look stock and make power this is how it's done
6. best $300 header is the 98 spec itr 4-1 stainless
7. get rid of the gsr manifold for a performer x or at least an itr copy like the blox or skunk2
you don't need a valve job unless you have valve sealing issues.
the best blox cams are the C's they will outperform the B's everywhere
no idea on your cam gears but it's often a good idea to have them degreed to the cam card since god only knows if blox has them ground straight.
1. the correct valve springs for those cams
2. the matching retainers
3. an obd1 ecu with some type of tuneability, the hondata s100 is my low cost fav
4. a better header and exhaust would bring the power up but are not mandatory
5. a 96 spec jdm itr header looks like a gsr manifold but is much larger sporting a 2.5" collector. if you want to look stock and make power this is how it's done
6. best $300 header is the 98 spec itr 4-1 stainless
7. get rid of the gsr manifold for a performer x or at least an itr copy like the blox or skunk2
you don't need a valve job unless you have valve sealing issues.
the best blox cams are the C's they will outperform the B's everywhere
no idea on your cam gears but it's often a good idea to have them degreed to the cam card since god only knows if blox has them ground straight.
what you actually need is
1. the correct valve springs for those cams
2. the matching retainers
3. an obd1 ecu with some type of tuneability, the hondata s100 is my low cost fav
4. a better header and exhaust would bring the power up but are not mandatory
5. a 96 spec jdm itr header looks like a gsr manifold but is much larger sporting a 2.5" collector. if you want to look stock and make power this is how it's done
6. best $300 header is the 98 spec itr 4-1 stainless
7. get rid of the gsr manifold for a performer x or at least an itr copy like the blox or skunk2
you don't need a valve job unless you have valve sealing issues.
the best blox cams are the C's they will outperform the B's everywhere
no idea on your cam gears but it's often a good idea to have them degreed to the cam card since god only knows if blox has them ground straight.
1. the correct valve springs for those cams
2. the matching retainers
3. an obd1 ecu with some type of tuneability, the hondata s100 is my low cost fav
4. a better header and exhaust would bring the power up but are not mandatory
5. a 96 spec jdm itr header looks like a gsr manifold but is much larger sporting a 2.5" collector. if you want to look stock and make power this is how it's done
6. best $300 header is the 98 spec itr 4-1 stainless
7. get rid of the gsr manifold for a performer x or at least an itr copy like the blox or skunk2
you don't need a valve job unless you have valve sealing issues.
the best blox cams are the C's they will outperform the B's everywhere
no idea on your cam gears but it's often a good idea to have them degreed to the cam card since god only knows if blox has them ground straight.
those cams come with gears on them already so it kinda 280USD/210EUR shipped to me for the whole lot, plus new cam seals are included...
asking about keeping stock compression with stock block is about me thinking maybe going boosted after some time and reusing same cams...
I think I would have to keep my stock header with IM unless I get some freebies haha, as If I go boosted none of these will benefit to me at the time... but boosted is far from now so just N/A cams is buzzing in my head for now, thats what is all about
would loosing some oil everytime so often with no smoke at all, no leaks outside engine and no performance loss whatsoever means my valve steem seals are about to be replaced?
those cams come with gears on them already so it kinda 280USD/210EUR shipped to me for the whole lot, plus new cam seals are included...
asking about keeping stock compression with stock block is about me thinking maybe going boosted after some time and reusing same cams...
I think I would have to keep my stock header with IM unless I get some freebies haha, as If I go boosted none of these will benefit to me at the time... but boosted is far from now so just N/A cams is buzzing in my head for now, thats what is all about
those cams come with gears on them already so it kinda 280USD/210EUR shipped to me for the whole lot, plus new cam seals are included...
asking about keeping stock compression with stock block is about me thinking maybe going boosted after some time and reusing same cams...
I think I would have to keep my stock header with IM unless I get some freebies haha, as If I go boosted none of these will benefit to me at the time... but boosted is far from now so just N/A cams is buzzing in my head for now, thats what is all about
If thats the case I would buy an IM and header before even installing the cams but if you wanna upgrade a head that cant breath thats up to you
the intake manifold is a big help if you go boosted. still, that's a whole nother project. since you already have this stuff, get an intake, header and install the cams.
oil loss is common with all the b series vtec. a quart every 1500 miles is common
seals sometimes leak but the guides and rings are also part of the equation. most of us just run them till they blow and add oil as needed. once something breaks you tear down and rebuild.
oil loss is common with all the b series vtec. a quart every 1500 miles is common
seals sometimes leak but the guides and rings are also part of the equation. most of us just run them till they blow and add oil as needed. once something breaks you tear down and rebuild.
Trending Topics
#1 discovered auction few mins before it ended so placed my bid and won!
#2 talked with few ppl who are in motor building tuning business and been adviced not to get them for DD application
#3 still havent payed the seller a penny, requested him to cancel transaction due to my mistake buying wrong item
thinking saving abit and building motor for about 300-400 whp... the most concerns me is MPG after build, sound may stupid but I dont mind throwing few grand on build but want to keep at 30MPG or more if possible if wasnt pushing out the limits on the motor, as for DD, I dont give a dam how much petrol it drinks when I want to fly like, thats my biggest concern. If I was to go boosted would prob start buying things now and build all after another 10-12 months
#2 talked with few ppl who are in motor building tuning business and been adviced not to get them for DD application
#3 still havent payed the seller a penny, requested him to cancel transaction due to my mistake buying wrong item
thinking saving abit and building motor for about 300-400 whp... the most concerns me is MPG after build, sound may stupid but I dont mind throwing few grand on build but want to keep at 30MPG or more if possible if wasnt pushing out the limits on the motor, as for DD, I dont give a dam how much petrol it drinks when I want to fly like, thats my biggest concern. If I was to go boosted would prob start buying things now and build all after another 10-12 months
#1 discovered auction few mins before it ended so placed my bid and won!
#2 talked with few ppl who are in motor building tuning business and been adviced not to get them for DD application
#3 still havent payed the seller a penny, requested him to cancel transaction due to my mistake buying wrong item
thinking saving abit and building motor for about 300-400 whp... the most concerns me is MPG after build, sound may stupid but I dont mind throwing few grand on build but want to keep at 30MPG or more if possible if wasnt pushing out the limits on the motor, as for DD, I dont give a dam how much petrol it drinks when I want to fly like, thats my biggest concern. If I was to go boosted would prob start buying things now and build all after another 10-12 months
#2 talked with few ppl who are in motor building tuning business and been adviced not to get them for DD application
#3 still havent payed the seller a penny, requested him to cancel transaction due to my mistake buying wrong item
thinking saving abit and building motor for about 300-400 whp... the most concerns me is MPG after build, sound may stupid but I dont mind throwing few grand on build but want to keep at 30MPG or more if possible if wasnt pushing out the limits on the motor, as for DD, I dont give a dam how much petrol it drinks when I want to fly like, thats my biggest concern. If I was to go boosted would prob start buying things now and build all after another 10-12 months
i'd neg you and give you a non paying bidder strike in a flash. people like you should be banned from ebay. you bid, you win, you buy, period.
sadly ebay or paypal cant do it, I admit I made a mistake and asked to cancel transaction. Buyer cant receive neg feedback, only seller if he leaves me non-paying strike he will receive neg feedback from me as ignoring my request to cancel transaction, which I admit it was my mistake, FFS whats your business here with ebay - SHUT THE **** UP!

buyers do get feedback on ebay you dumb ****
an some sellers wont even consider a bid with any neg feedback
i hope they didn't change this. i never sell on ebay anymore due to how heavily weighted it is in the buyers favor. still as i said, guys like you don't belong on ebay. that seller has every right not to cancel the transaction. you bid, you buy. grow up and learn to play by the rules.
i hope they didn't change this. i never sell on ebay anymore due to how heavily weighted it is in the buyers favor. still as i said, guys like you don't belong on ebay. that seller has every right not to cancel the transaction. you bid, you buy. grow up and learn to play by the rules.
u dont tell me to grow up boy, its none of your business, u dont belong to this thread if you think otherwise dont post here anything Im not asking you. thanks
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Ragingfire85
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
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Oct 28, 2012 09:58 AM




