Building an all motor R
So my car is all torn apart right now, (94 integra) we pulled out the motor today, and it looks like everything will be smooth for my swap this weekend, all i am waiting for is the tranny that is having the spoon final drive put into it. the engine is a 98 b18c5 (obviously usdm) jun III cams, jun retainers, jun springs, jun valves, port & polished head, steel head gasket, jun pistons, jun rods, jun shaved crank. plus a Mugen LSD, Aasco flywheel and a centerforce clutch, wish me luck boys i'll be posting my 1/4 mile times in about a week or so.
[Modified by allmotor R, 3:39 AM 9/19/2002]
[Modified by allmotor R, 3:48 AM 9/19/2002]
[Modified by allmotor R, 3:39 AM 9/19/2002]
[Modified by allmotor R, 3:48 AM 9/19/2002]
1/4 mile already? No break in?
the clutch and flywheel are coming out of my old engine, so they'll be ok, and i'll probably drive about 500 miles then adjust my valves, then take it to the track.
oh lord here we go again. do you all really think any type of racing team breaks in a motor for 1000 som miles before dyno'ing and racing. a long period break-in is hype. dont believe it.
oh lord here we go again. do you all really think any type of racing team breaks in a motor for 1000 som miles before dyno'ing and racing. a long period break-in is hype. dont believe it.
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This came from a mailing list i was on a while back, and i saved it..... how much validity is in this?
1.Use regular oil, not synthetic, during break-in.
2.When you first start it up, let it COMPLETELY warm up, not just kinda warm, all the way warm.
3.While it's still hot, check and see if the head needs to be retorqued.
4.Check the timing again, as well as the valve adjustment.
5. Very slowly and using the lowest rpms as possbile get to about 65mph. Put the car in 4th gear. The coast, in neutral, to about 30.
6.Go from 30 to 65, in 4th gear about 20 times. This allows the rings to seat, so do it right, and do it 20 times.
7.Drive EASY for about 150 miles. Change the oil. Still just the regular oil.
8.Drive easy for another 150 miles. Change the oil again. Still just the regular oil. (yeah, I realize that steps 7 and 8 say the same thing. Do it twice)
9.Drive it kinda easy (no trips to redline) for another 1500 miles.
10.Change the oil again. Now you can use the expensive synthetics if you want to.
11.After that, the motor is pretty much broken in, so go run the dang thing to see how fast it is!!!!"
2.When you first start it up, let it COMPLETELY warm up, not just kinda warm, all the way warm.
3.While it's still hot, check and see if the head needs to be retorqued.
4.Check the timing again, as well as the valve adjustment.
5. Very slowly and using the lowest rpms as possbile get to about 65mph. Put the car in 4th gear. The coast, in neutral, to about 30.
6.Go from 30 to 65, in 4th gear about 20 times. This allows the rings to seat, so do it right, and do it 20 times.
7.Drive EASY for about 150 miles. Change the oil. Still just the regular oil.
8.Drive easy for another 150 miles. Change the oil again. Still just the regular oil. (yeah, I realize that steps 7 and 8 say the same thing. Do it twice)
9.Drive it kinda easy (no trips to redline) for another 1500 miles.
10.Change the oil again. Now you can use the expensive synthetics if you want to.
11.After that, the motor is pretty much broken in, so go run the dang thing to see how fast it is!!!!"
unless your pulling hundred dollar bills from uranus... id do a nice steady break in on the dyno, get a big *** fan in front of you and drive the miles away while reading a magazine or picking your nose.
change the oil every couple hunderd of miles up to 800 or so, then start hitting vtec on the dyno and tune it.
then race it.
and i hope you have an aftermarket timing belt to protect all those $$JUN$$ parts
change the oil every couple hunderd of miles up to 800 or so, then start hitting vtec on the dyno and tune it.
then race it.
and i hope you have an aftermarket timing belt to protect all those $$JUN$$ parts
oh lord here we go again. do you all really think any type of racing team breaks in a motor for 1000 som miles before dyno'ing and racing. a long period break-in is hype. dont believe it.
do you really think any type of racing team runs the same motor for 50k miles?
but of course, this isn't a high power drag car or something

[Modified by FyrStarter, 4:34 PM 1/26/2003]
change your valvesprings.
-Dave, who is surprised steve didn't also mention to check inst. height.
do you really think any type of racing team runs the same motor for 50k miles?
So my car is all torn apart right now, (94 integra) we pulled out the motor today, and it looks like everything will be smooth for my swap this weekend, all i am waiting for is the tranny that is having the spoon final drive put into it. the engine is a 98 b18c5 (obviously usdm) jun III cams, jun retainers, jun springs, jun valves, port & polished head, steel head gasket, jun pistons, jun rods, jun shaved crank. plus a Mugen LSD, Aasco flywheel and a centerforce clutch, wish me luck boys i'll be posting my 1/4 mile times in about a week or so.
Didn't know JUN made pistons/rods/cranks.. maybe I just never noticed.
I thought atleast a 1000 was a good break in period on a fairly "fresh" motor?
after i have a couple of these first...
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mister2racer
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
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Jun 19, 2004 08:05 AM



Good luck and let us know how she runs..
