Hey guys, my new setup is being built as we speak, and all my parts are in the mail, so as soon as everything is in, ill be heading to the track but from what I understand if I run 11.99 or faster I need to have at minimum a 6pt roll bar to be legal at most events.

HEre's the setup:
Golden Eagle B18a1
89mm Ls Crank
86mm JE Pistons (12.5:1)
Eagle Rods
Stock GSR head
Skunk manfifold (portmatched)
RPM Services 70mm TB
Headertech SS 4-1 header w/ 3" merge collector
3" QTEC
Rocket EF1 or Jun 4 Cams
Jun Valvesprings
Jun Retainers
Jun Cam Gears
B16 Tranny
ACT Clutch
ACT Pro-Lite Flywheel
No differential (need more $$)
22*8*13" slicks
DSS Stage 1 Axles

Chassis is a 94 DX which will be gutted, no A/C, no airbags, no interior, no roof liner, nothing under the dash at all, no seatbelts (just harnesses obviously, lol)..target weight is about 1900lbs..and my target WHP is 230whp. If I grip will I break 11's???

My track goal would be a 11.99 or faster ET and a 107mph..

 

Thats a pretty funny lookin stock head.
I dont know N/A man....so i couldnt tell you. Slap a snail on that bitch and 11's should come easily.

 

I dont think that one should look to only his hardware to ponder 11's. When considering that territory one must worry most about tuning/traction and weight. All things considered the setup looks solid, I think th epossibility is there all depending on your chassis, driving and how well it is tuned... Best of Luck

 

hondidalydata

 

Stock GSR head

 

If you can drive, you will hit 11's with that setup.

 

2000 lbs, good driver/tuning, and 230 to the wheels is easily a 11.90.

 

cant remember his screenanme but guy from austin with red hatch ran 12.3 @ 110 i think, few weeks ago in ennis at the last event. He said he was makign a little over 200 whp, he was on slicks and didnt have any extensive weight reduction from what we saw, so if you make ur goal # then i dotn think u should have any problem, but remmebr every car and every setup is different, good luck

 

i would look into some headwork for sure and at a good elevation and with good driving i dont se that its not possible

 

Well I will tune the hondata as soon as I get it, it will be tuned well hopefully, if I can't tune it well enough down here, im going to drive to secret services in Tampa and let secret services do it.

And im a pretty decent driver as well, im not fantasic, but I cut a few 2.1's on street tires when I had a stock GSR motor. But im going to have to learn to run on slicks, cus that will be a first for me..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would look into some headwork for sure and at a good elevation and with good driving i dont se that its not possible
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I will get some headwork eventually, but I want the motor fully built, and then do the headwork so I can see how much hp it actually makes me. Im tihnking portflow or alaniz.

And the altitude here like 1-2 ft. above sea level..

 

are you guys talking 1/8 mile times? Because it takes alot more than 200 WHP to run in the 12.'s let alone the 11.'s in the 1/4.

 

I'd rather have head work first over high compression...that's just my opinion. I'd think that with an NA beast, most of the power will be found in the head rather than higher compression

 

i dont see a stock port gsr head and that setup making 230whp. also, i hope you dont plan to rev it too high on the eagles. my buddies 200whp type r let go at just over 9500rpm. rod bolts snapped

by the way is this one of the All Star cars?? i know those guys always run all motor.

 

No, im not an all-star car. This is a street/race car not a show car... I am friends with a bunch of them though. They are nice guys. But they don't only go all-motor. Like half of them are on boost. There's an mr2, a 240sx, an EG hatch, a EK coupe (em1), etc..

I was planning on revving to about 9000rpms. But I'll rev as high as they make power on the dyno, I have a buddy who's Eagle's see 19psi, 420whp and 10,000 rpm's and he's never had a problem. Eagle rods use ARP rod bolts, which are not known to snap at 9500rpms. Most likely whoever built your buddies motor didn't torque them to spec or didn't check for stretch.

The motor just came together quickly because I got some good deals. I wasn't going to run ctr pistons and stock bore and rods and have a ported head.. So i figured I'd assemble the 2.0 block and run all my parts on a stock head for a while until I save up the money to buy another head and have it ported by either alaniz, or portflow...then swap heads so I don't have downtime.

 

funny that larry from endyn assembled the motor. anyway, just because they are ARP's doesnt mean they wont break. the way the eagle rods arp bolts are designed where they are thick at the head and then thin in the middle and thick on the threads is why they break. funny that pauter tq specs are almost double that of the eagles and they both use arps. one is obviously better than the other.

 

Larry is a human, human's make mistakes.

Larry doesn't necessarily have the best rep. I know he ported a friend of mine's head, and that **** was HACKED UP. It looked terrible and it did NOT flow well in anyway. flowbench numbers were very unconsistent from cylnder to cylinder.

anywho. your friend is the first incident I've ever heard of eagle's snapping due to high rpm's. And I know quite a few people using Eagle's with ARP's that are revving to statospheric rpms. My stock GSR rods and non-arp rod bolts took 9500rpm's..i don't understand how aftermarket rods and rod bolts are going to be weaker.

 

ok sorry you are right. eagles rock i was mistaken. so you have never heard of eagles snapping?? weird. i have seen more than 1 set 1st hand.

 

[QUOTE=MaxBoost]Larry is a human, human's make mistakes.
QUOTE]

one more thing, i guess motors with pauter rods or crower rods are assembled by machine because i have never read, seen or heard of one of them snapping a rod or rod bolt at 200-400whp like the eagles. weird huh??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorMatrix.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok sorry you are right. eagles rock i was mistaken. so you have never heard of eagles snapping?? weird. i have seen more than 1 set 1st hand. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've never heard of them snapping in an all-motor car. And even if there are a few random horror stories out there, what product never fails. There are a million success stories with people using Eagle rods on all-motor setups. Unless I was going to be making 270+whp, then I'd switch to pauters or crowers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaxBoost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've never heard of them snapping in an all-motor car. And even if there are a few random horror stories out there, what product never fails. There are a million success stories with people using Eagle rods on all-motor setups. Unless I was going to be making 270+whp, then I'd switch to pauters or crowers. </TD></TR></TABLE>

why switch at 270whp if your buddy has eagles making over 400whp?? why not just say "i dont feel like spending the extra 300 and if they break i will be pissed at myself but i am going to take the chance anyway". i mean that is the trutch behind it. yes, all products do break but some break easier. bottom line is look at the tq spec on the pauter and crowers compared to the eagles. Why chance loosing a whole motor over 300.00 on a rod?? I dont understand??

 

your reasoning makes sense to me Mike, but I'm a poor college student. I make $8.50/hr and I only work 25 hours per week. So I'm usually on a budget. I didn't think that Eagle rods would be a weak point in a mild all-motor setup. But now that you have me thinking, im getting paranoid.

I mean seriously though, tons of people run Eagle rods on all-motor setups. Are they're any other rods that are better then Eagle's but less expensive then crowers?? Trust me, I had dough, there would be nothing but the best going into my motor. But I seriously make like $850 a month working PT, and I spend half of that on tuition, phone, food, gas, insurance, etc...

In your opinion, do I have an alternate route besides eagle's?? Am I safer running stock shot-peened rods with ARP's????

 

I understand that everyone has a budget and cant buy the best of everything. my advice is this.. why not subsitute the dss axles fro a set of autozone with lifetime warranty axles and use the extra $$$ for rods, or stay with stock cams for a bit and make a little less power but your bottom end will be solid. patience is the key in building a fast car. Think about how long you will have to work to rebuild your bottom end if a rod takes out your crank,GE sleeves, or pistons. now you are out 2k instead of 300.00. just my advice. patience is the key!!!

 

Think about how long you will have to work to rebuild your bottom end if a rod takes out your crank,GE sleeves, or pistons. now you are out 2k instead of 300.00. just my advice. patience is the key!!![/QUOTE]

 

Well I already have all those parts. From my last motor. So I have to use them. What I might to is build the motor and not reprogram my hondata, which had a low rev limit. and not rev past 8900 until i can afford something better then eagle.