ok, well i'm newly boosted and as some guys know from my other thread regarding coolant temps i've been dealing with some issues. here's what i've got going on:

D16Z6 greddy 18G - 10psi making 220-230whp
stock radiator and fan.

during some spirited driving my friends are noticing some white smoke from my tail pipe at WOT.

cooling temps are reaching 220 and then dropping slowly at times. i've been noticing my coolant reservoir completely filling up. so after the car cools down i've been pouring that back in to my radiator. i thought this may have been caused by a faulty radiator cap.

my question is, will the head lifting due to me using stock head studs be causing me to see temps this high? if so, what can i expect to see my temps fall back down to if bolt in a set of ARP head studs?

i know i should be upgrading my cooling system to a better radiator and fan, but money is super tight at the moment.

my girl is letting me spend upto $250 on a bday gift, so i want my next purchase to be one thats going to make the biggest difference in help right now.

 

**** i spelled symptoms* wrong lol

 

Bumppppp

 

well you'd have to see if the head was warped first. but usually headlift on a d series is caused by too much timing. are you tuned?

 

Yes, I am tuned. I can see how 10psi on stock studs would give me this type of problem. I plan on getting a set of ARP studs and changing the head gasket to the felpro model that is metal wrapped in a material that fills and seals any and all warps or cracks. I'm just hoping this problem is the source of my high heat temps to 220 degrees and that I will be able to get away with my stock radiator and fan for a few more months. Money is tight hondata and tuning sucked the life from me.

 

i would just use an oem headgasket.

 

lol felpro??!?

oem hg, get the head milled, arp studs...

 

OEM steel head gasket and arp and torque 5,10,15,20,25,30,40,50,60 i went to 65 i believe. Me and ELSPOOL tested out this method after 6 head gaskets.

Check head and block for warpage btw

 

what is getting a head milled mean? and why not felpro? they make the best gaskets in the world hands down. thats all they make is gaskets..almost like saying koni makes a bad shock, or rolex makes a bad watch.

 

I never had any problems with the felpro head gasket. But get some ARPs and troque that sucker down. Might as well check the head and block to make sure it's not warp while the head is off. But I troque my head studs to 70ft lbs.

 

Milled means if ur head is warmed they grind the head down to make it smooth again.
And about the head gasket oem is the best felpro is a cheaper aftermarket gasket. That's like going to the 99 cent store and buying week old bread

 

There is no need in the world to torque in ALL those increments, if anything you're just asking for an issue being ARP's lack a dogface on the stud and dependent on the threads in the block you may be asking to strip one.

IIRC ARP's for D-Series are recommended to 65, I'd go to 70. 25/50/70, that's all you need; and obviously follow factory torque sequence.

To the OP, before putting your time and money into this..bleed your coolant system properly and do a leakdown test, it is possible you are lifting the head. I'd also recommend a dual-core radiator and fan, these cars run hot as is with moderate boost..your factory cooling system isn't helping you.

Also, I concur with the OEM headgasket..cometic/felpro/(insert cheap china mfg here) are all ****. Check your block with a straight edge and have the head milled, guarantee it's .005-.007 out as it is.

 

Reason we did those steps was i did the the arp and oem recomedations and popped the head gasket. I did my steps on my Y8 and ive pushed alot more out of it and never had a issue once so ever in 3 years now.