Ive been noticing some build up of oil as you'll notice in a couple of the pictures. I'm fairly certain that there is a small small kink right in the middle, but I have no idea of how else to route this being that it is so close to the oil pan. Only other idea I have is using a barb off the turbo and a AN to barb fitting with a regular high temp hose instead of the stainless steel braided line which I believe is making it kink bc its less flexible due to the braid. What are your thoughts for changing this?? Thanks guys...

 

have a custom barbed drain flange made up and put a barb on the pan and use hose clamps. it should give u a lot more space to work with.

thats what i would do, anyways...

 

Buy one of the billet return flanges with the -10 male machined into it, and use a regular -10AN hose end. Mine was almost exactly the same, and thats how I fixed it..

This is the one I went with, but there are many others out there...
http://www.advancespeedshop.com/func...0-p-14079.html

 

How is your gasket for the flange?

I have a similar drain, and the only thing I can think of is, maybe mine is clocked more than yours? Maybe clock it more towards the pan, and shorten the hose. I also have Goodyear heater hose, with one of these:

http://www.goodyearep.com/productsdetail.aspx?id=16154

I think it was like 6 bucks at Checker/O'Reilly.

 

Ive tried that before...theres too much of a bend going into the oil pan and then it kinks. Do you have pictures of yours that I could see? Maybe you did something a little different?



I think thats what I might have to do...do a barb off the turbo and a barb off the oil pan with some non stainless steel braided hose.

 

What if you used a 90 degree fitting off the turb. and a short straight piece of hose.

 

Ive been told that you dont want a 90 straight off the turbo.

 

Mine is super crazy aswell.

I have a -10 where you have your barb. then I have a 45degree off the turbo then a straight to the pan.

****ING PAIN IN MY *** TO GET THAT BITCH ON. like imagine using a large crescent wrench cut so that its just the jaws and then having the cover and the exhaust side off the turbo to get it on.

 

That's what I use to have...then tried this. Im pretty sure it's just so tight and kinks bc the braiding will only bend so much.

So here's the new plan...I found a fitting that bolts directly to the turbo and goes into a barb. I'll use that off the turbo, the blue high temp silicone hose, and then a female to barb fitting off of the oil pan. Doing this will allow me to have a little bit longer hose which will help the bend, and also not using SS braiding will allow it to bend easier. Time to spend some more money on fittings

 

I gained some room (and reduce the angle) by grinding down the barb. I also belt-sanded the flange to gain another 1/8" (not shown).

 

2point2 has a good idea, but really, I don't see anything wrong with your drain lines' angle. I've got a 90 AN off the turbo, to 4" SS hose, to straight barb, and I've got no issues, so I'm not sure where yours (as pictured) is giving you a problem.

 

Personally, I don't think that line is causing you any problems. I think what is causing the problem is your gasket between the turbo and drain flange. I'd pull all of that apart, replace the gasket and rock with it.

 

Well I think right as the angle goes down that there is a small kink. Its not only dripping from the oil return there, but if you look to the right of the line you'll see oil on the hot side too. Which means its probably coming through bc its either not draining properly or its being over oiled. But the Borg Warners call for a -4an feed line. Sooooo....that leaves me to believe the oil return lines isnt draining properly.

 

well why dont you shorten that hose and clock the turbo at more of a slight angle? If its leaking from the turbo already then its already ****ed anyway, changing your drain hose will most likely only make it leak less.

That is if you ****ed up the seals from the drain hose not draining properly. (which I have done once before)

 

I don't like that drain at all.

Clock the turbo more, use a 45 and have your bung welded on a angle on the pan (can be slightly lower to clear the lip of the oil pan), have a small extension made, usually a piece of pipe, that sits nicely on the proper angle on the pan, then weld the bung to the end of the extension.

You need to think outside the box sometimes with certain things. We did it this way on my friends neon because the drain needed to go on the inside of the axle between the axle and block on the rear, we didn't want to go under the axle, and there was no way to do it other then with welding the bung on a 45 to the pan with an extension, it worked extremely well.

 

rule of thumb. you dont have to have the turbos center section pointing the flange straight down. you can clock the center up to 60 degrees without hurting the scavenging on the turbo. just a thought. btw that return line looks like ****.

pm me and ill help you out.

 

Just a little update...When I pulled the return line off, I found blockage in the actual hose itself. Which was obviously making it back up in the turbo. Im not really sure how it happened though. Since then, I did like I said and used a barbed AN push fitting off the oil pan...a flange off the turbo with a short barb, and some of the high temp blue 5/8" line. After taking it for a couple rides the hot side of the turbo looks to be dry. Here are a couple pictures....you can see where it bumps out on the bottom and then a little further down bumps out on the top.

 

Get a 45 degree fitting off oil pan.

 

If you read the last post before you posted, you would see that the problem is already fixed and the way i fixed it.

 

Or just make the return line spiral like a water park slide down to the pan. This seems to be a common problem with ram horn manifolds and the oil pans.

 

Guys...it's fixed