95 coupe with stock b16a. motor was from an automatic car. ive had it for 3 years without one single problem and the motor was untouched. my friend gave me a set of gsr cams for free. so i set the crank 0 mark on the pointer and pulled the valve cover off. both cam gears were pointed up with the 2 marks pointing right toward each other and i marked the belt and gears for a reference point for reinstallation. i pulled the stock cams out, and put my cam gears on the new cams. installed the new cams with my marks in the same spot on the gears and belt. gears were still pointing up and the 2 marks pointing at each other. crank pulley still at 0. torqued everything to spec. started the car everything idled normal. turned off the motor and put the crank back at 0. the cam gears were still in the right spot. started the motor and used a timing light to make sure it was idling right. oh also, i checked valve lash on cylinder 1 after i changed cams and intake was .06 and exhaust was .08 so i left the rest of the cylinders alone because they should have been the same. when i drive it, its slow to accelerate. if im rolling like 20mph and shift into 2nd gear and push the pedal down, it will start cutting out and missing until about 4000rpm when it starts to smooth out. it hits vtec normally. im thinking it may be somthing electrical like the control module. but i didnt touch any of that stuff. also i put new spark plugs in and it does the same thing. i dont know what is going on.

 

Did you jump the service connector when you checked the ignition timing? Was the pointer aligned with the red mark (middle in group of three marks) on the crank pulley?

 

no i didnt jump the connector but i was timing it to the red mark, the one in the middle. i just read the how to section and it says to jump the connector too. why is that? what does that do different?

 

Jumping the service connector prevents the ECU altering the ignition timing and thereby allows you to set the base ignition timing.

 

it could be the ecu check it just in case for burning or anything

 

we just re-timed it with the service connector jumped. so ignition timing is perfect now too. it still cuts out. if i dont get into the pedal too hard, the car drives normal. im thinking of putting my stock cams back in but im just not sure if the cams are the issue. im thinking more electronic or something. maybe i should redo my valve lash?

sorry, using a different name right now