I've noticed a slight pulsating when I apply constant pressure on the brake pedal and the pulsating seems to fluctuate with my speed.

I have regular oem replacement rotors with Hawk HPS pads, with drums in the back, on a stock Civic HX. I've done three HPDEs on this setup and braking performance seems fine.

After some research it looks like I could have some deposits on my rotors and they should either be resurfaced or replaced. What would be best if I'm going to reuse my pads?

I already have some new replacement rotors laying around but I don't have time to get new pads before my next track day on 9/6.

 

Pulsating pedal no abs?? Warped rotor.
You have plenty of time to get pads.

 

Thanks. So would I need new pads with the new rotors?

 

Id get new pads.. just me... why put pads back on if they arent worn evenly enough

 

That makes sense to me. I don't like making assumptions, so I'll always ask what seems to be an obvious question just to be sure.

 

I consider brakes a consumable.. just like fuel, fluids, and tires.
Replace if questionable.

 

Lol, brakes.
Rotors are cheap enough in stock size that you may as well pick up a set. As for the pads, a brake vibration doesn't mean the pads are unevenly worn. I'd just slap 'em back in with new rotors and call it a day.

 

I have done this before the old pad tore up my new rotors gl

Just get new rotors you can get them as cheap at $15 a rotor and HPS at Pepe boys if they still have them for like $38

 

Depends on the pad..

If you are using anything streetable (ie not a race pad) you shouldn't have a problem just swapping rotors.

Some race pads will need the "rotor's" bedded in. (IE they need a good transfer layer on them before you can really use them, i'd suggest bedding the rotors just like you do the brakes in this case.

 

Probably not true, as noted in this writeup on the Stoptech website.



Read this document for more details.

 

Many swap track and street pads on the same rotors back and forth for HPDE, many times in a season. If you have pad deposits, then why, and why do you think that this will not occur again especially at the track. I found that after my first several outings, and harder braking, that I started having trouble with HP+. Others have done fine, but HPS may not hold up and you may repeat this problem. Also, my "deposits" which I could feel, and not see much, seemed to clear with a day or two on the street, somewhat self resurfacing. Unless it occured because you sat with your brake pedal depressed, when hot and, cooked something. As usual, Nsxtacy gave you good info and a good site.

 

Excellent read. Thanks! Now im gonna go see why my fronts arent biting, and vibrating like a ****.
Lots of useful information to sift through and find the acutal cause.

 

I just finished looking at pads and rotors noted in the thread on "Pad wear..." and found that tapered and uneven pads can really affect feel. Not only taper, but taper from both ends leaving only the middle to clamp, and decreasing the usable area. And, I used to think brakes were simple.

 

You should "rotate" your pads is using them on the track. Often times the outside or inside pad will wear faster than the other. Also make sure the the "ears" or tabs of pad are smooth along with the part of the caliper they sit in. I use just little high temp grease on the ears where they stick in the caliper to help keep them from tapering during heavy track use.

 

Depends on the manufacturer, but some say only rotate where the rotors come thru in the same direction. Put drivers inside on passenger outside, etc. Also, you can double taper, that is from each end, and "high center." Don't want to really start this discussion in this thread as it is in others.

 

I checked my rotors doing a run out check with a dial indicator as per the honda repair manual and, found a variance in both rotors of 7 thousandths in two places on both front and back sides in the same location.
Basically sectioned off the rotor in 1/4's, and took my measurements.
on both sides of the rotor in about the same spot a deflection was recorded.
That to me is a warped rotor.

 

Chances are, your rotors weren't warped when they first started to shudder. What happens is, when they have an uneven layer of brake pad deposits, they shudder, but they're not warped. If you continue to drive/track them that way, without doing any re-bedding or turning, then they develop "hot spots" that can develop into actual warping. At that point, I would replace them, because if you only turn them, they will be more susceptible to future warping and hot spots.

 

It was time to replace them any way.
New Rotors new and different pads. They saw too many track days as it was

 

With brake rotors as cheap as they are, sometimes it's not even worth trying to diagnose or ponder over it and better just to replace if not sure.