change rotor on distributor king brand dizzy's?
Hey guys,
I purchased a distributor king brand dizzy from an ebay store, these dizzy's are pretty good, great price, and i have two of them, one on my integra, one on my accord. The rotor in the dizzy on the integra is looking rough and i have had a misfire lately, so i bought an oem rotor to replace it. Oddly enough it is not a traditional rotor, instead of being able to turn the dizzy so that i can access the phillips head screw, so that i can remove the rotor, there is NO screw, the shaft is smooth all the way around the circumference. Also on the head of the rotor, there is a bent over metal tab, which seems to be stationary.
First though is that the dizzy's are built from old cores, meaning the shaft, although covered, should still have the threaded screw hole in it, but i do not want to force the old rotor off, only to find there is not threaded hole. Causing me to have to buy a new dizzy because i will not be able to affix the new rotor onto the shaft.
If any of you has ever dealt with a distributor king dizzy, please chime in or drop your thoughts, thanks.
I purchased a distributor king brand dizzy from an ebay store, these dizzy's are pretty good, great price, and i have two of them, one on my integra, one on my accord. The rotor in the dizzy on the integra is looking rough and i have had a misfire lately, so i bought an oem rotor to replace it. Oddly enough it is not a traditional rotor, instead of being able to turn the dizzy so that i can access the phillips head screw, so that i can remove the rotor, there is NO screw, the shaft is smooth all the way around the circumference. Also on the head of the rotor, there is a bent over metal tab, which seems to be stationary.
First though is that the dizzy's are built from old cores, meaning the shaft, although covered, should still have the threaded screw hole in it, but i do not want to force the old rotor off, only to find there is not threaded hole. Causing me to have to buy a new dizzy because i will not be able to affix the new rotor onto the shaft.
If any of you has ever dealt with a distributor king dizzy, please chime in or drop your thoughts, thanks.
hmm, well i just called distributor king, hopefully the shaft does have the hole, but if not, i supposed i will have to purchase a rotor through them.. or get an oem style dizzy.
ok.. so i never got an answer on this, and i'm losing a noticeable amount of spark, so i figured, hey may as was rip the rotor off even if it breaks the distributor since not even distributor king could answer the question on changing to rotor, so here is what i discovered.
Hopefully this information may help someone in the future.
Under the cap is a plastic shroud and the only way to remove it without damaging it, is by removal of the rotor. As mentioned before, there is NO screw holding the rotor on, and i am unaware as to how it is held on. After careful examination, i used a flat head screw driver and started to pry on the bottom of the rotor.

Luckily, once the rotor was removed, the distributor shaft had the threaded hole needed for the replacement rotor (durabrand from autozone, identical to oem)
i took a few pictures to show the differences, in each picture, the distributor king rotor is on the left, with the more traditional replacement rotor on the right. Basically in my discovery, the distributor king rotor was simply "pressed on" and there is a spring loaded metal tab with two prongs which help keep it pressed onto the dizzy shaft.



Hopefully this information may help someone in the future.
Under the cap is a plastic shroud and the only way to remove it without damaging it, is by removal of the rotor. As mentioned before, there is NO screw holding the rotor on, and i am unaware as to how it is held on. After careful examination, i used a flat head screw driver and started to pry on the bottom of the rotor.

Luckily, once the rotor was removed, the distributor shaft had the threaded hole needed for the replacement rotor (durabrand from autozone, identical to oem)
i took a few pictures to show the differences, in each picture, the distributor king rotor is on the left, with the more traditional replacement rotor on the right. Basically in my discovery, the distributor king rotor was simply "pressed on" and there is a spring loaded metal tab with two prongs which help keep it pressed onto the dizzy shaft.



I was wondering the same thing because I too bought a dizzy from them and went to change it and to find no screw like the oem ones! We'll thanks for the information on it, pretty sure someone else will run into it too!!
Just posted a message about my same discovery today - no freakin hole! Well I hope when I take off my rotor there is a hole in the shaft ...but.... what do you do about a screw? How did you find the right size and thread?
-thanks for the pics by the way
-thanks for the pics by the way
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The Distributor King rotors are pretty cool because they eliminated the use of the screw. I have had a few of those screws fall out and destroy the inside of the cap and rotor.
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i never knew a $80 dizzy would be good. i might give one a try
i have dizzy problems right now. when i redline when its not moving my car it has a random redline...sometimes it will go to 3k rpm then jump to 5k then to 7k then 8k. its weird
once the car warms up it stalls randomly when i let off gas in neutral only when its warm. if the car is cold it drives fine and doesnt stall. but the redline when its not moving is weird and hard to explain. almost a pinging noise and flatline redlining.
car starts fine unless its warm. if the motor is at operating temp it will start then stall right away. it will stay running if i hit gas but it sounds like ****
does this sound like a dizzy problem? or a ect sensor?
i replaced plugs, rotor and cap, map sensor, wires, couple different iacv's, new throttle body with fitv, different tps sensor set to 850ohms, compression tested good, new battery and alt tested good.
so that leaves me with ect sensor, dizzy coil, dizzy icm and idk what else.
i have dizzy problems right now. when i redline when its not moving my car it has a random redline...sometimes it will go to 3k rpm then jump to 5k then to 7k then 8k. its weird
once the car warms up it stalls randomly when i let off gas in neutral only when its warm. if the car is cold it drives fine and doesnt stall. but the redline when its not moving is weird and hard to explain. almost a pinging noise and flatline redlining.
car starts fine unless its warm. if the motor is at operating temp it will start then stall right away. it will stay running if i hit gas but it sounds like ****
does this sound like a dizzy problem? or a ect sensor?
i replaced plugs, rotor and cap, map sensor, wires, couple different iacv's, new throttle body with fitv, different tps sensor set to 850ohms, compression tested good, new battery and alt tested good.
so that leaves me with ect sensor, dizzy coil, dizzy icm and idk what else.
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Street Ghost
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Dec 19, 2023 04:31 PM
change, distributor, distributors, dizzy, dropped, gsr, hondatech, integra, king, replace, rotar, rotor, screw, twentyhurtz, vchange




