ok so i'm new to boost and in the market for an FPR. My setup is D16Z6 stock, greddy 18G, RC 310's, walbro 255, hondata s300 w/boost - looking to run 8psi-10psi, shooting for 200whp+. I'm strapped for cash right now and can get a B&M/BLOX stock modified FPR between 35-60 bucks, which would leave me a few clams to purchase a fuel pressure gauge with. I can blow my budget on AEM honda made fare and not have any cash left for a gauge. Ultimately with my small low hp turbo setup will I be cool running the B&M or save up for the AEM? My tune is supposed to be this friday, so i'm leaning toward B&M but i'd like to hear some legit input on this.

thanx in advance.

 

B&M is modifyer, not really a regulator. skip the AEM and get an Aeromotive for the higher hp numbers. In your case with this build, you really don't need a FPR at all. save the cash.

 

^ X2..... no need for an aftermarket fpr, it will not benifit you in any way... save your cash.

 

I have a brand new blox fpr, black in color. pm me if interested

 

nay...aeromotive or fuelab or weldon

 

My tuner told me I should be running an FPR. Does anyone know of a possible reason why he wants me to run one? I doubt the guy would want me to throw money in the toilet..what's the reason for you guys telling me no on this? Like how wouldn't I benefit from it? Not trying to nit pick I just want to be educated.

 

whats wrong with the aem regulator?

 

Assuming you're using proper engine management, your guy may not be used to the fact that the stock regulator is basically a rising rate one, (returning fuel system) and that other makes don't necessarily have this system. For over 15 years on several daily 300whp setups not one aftermarket regulator was needed. Only when you're using an extremely large injector (0ver 800cc) is a FPR necessary. He also may be assuming that you'll be going for over 500whp at some later time, and feels its better to have one now and not later. Either way, the B&M is very inadequate for the job.

Using the AEM regulator is best with the accompanying fuel rail so that there is adequate clearance and little need for adapter fittings for it to work on the stock rail. (This is from the other setups I have installed and witnessed, not just hearsay). Otherwise, I've only used Aeromotive, Bosch, or Weldon, but only for setups intending to go beyond 500whp.

 

Great, now I'm just annoyed..I went out and dropped the 90 bucks on the B&M FPR and gauge at a time where money is real tight, my tuner is very reputable and knows I have no intentions of ever going 250whp and even that is a pipe dream. I don't understand why I was guided into wasting the money its not like I made the purchase through him. I shoulda came and spoke to the hondatech faithful before going through with any of this. Now I get to explain to my girl why we aren't going away for yet another weekend.

 

Do you guys think that because I'm running such small injectors he might've wanted to be able to come close to maxing them out? Hence the addition of the FPR along with 255 walbro to my setup? I know a proper fuel setup is essential with boost, I dunno I guess I'm now just looking for some consolation on this purchase I made today ..is there anyone out there that can tell me this B&M with gauge isn't totally frickin useless? Its already shitty enough my brand new hallman MBC is useless to me cuz I've opted to go with hondata s300 with boost solenoid. Speaking of which, I have a hallman prokit for sale brand new PM for details lolol.

 

You could sell the Hallman to literally ANYONE with a turbocharger(s), besides here. I find that for the BSFC of the power you're looking for those 310cc will be pretty close to being maxed out, but the B&M won't really help you in that regard except to maybe fatigue the injectors that much sooner. (Personally I would have used the hallman kit anyway, but that's because I keep things relatively simple, and not depend upon the computer so much to do my boost control for me)

Your B&M is unfortunately... useless

 

Christ, lol. I was gonna stick with the hallman but even running on a simple 5.5psi that the greddy actuator is set at had me breaking tires loose in first and second gears, not that I know how running the hondata boost solenoid is really gonna fix that problem I just thought it would be better to only be boosting upwards of 8-10psi after second gear. Boosting 10psi in first just seems ridic to me especially with close to brand new proxes 4 breaking loose at just 5.5psi.

 

my exp with the b and m modifier, i could never get it to seal vacuum. exp with the aem, i think they have since fixed it, but i have had 2 rip diaphrams, and 1 cost a motor because it ripped so bad, it fuel locked the engine bending a connecting rod.

as all have said, the stocker is a 1:1 and can handle some pretty stout numbers. your goal should be easy.

as far as the 310's, you are going to be close to the max.

maybe try to source a set of 450 dsm's. they are in expensive, and all you need is a resistor box to make them work.

 

got my car tuned yesterday on 10psi, they didn't even touch the FPR that i installed lol..i really don't give a **** though, somehow the little D series that could made just about 230whp.

 

a buddy of myne was dailying 550whp 93 oct,and 655whp with racegas .......... eg with b18c1, the only things that were upgraded as far as the fuel system wer the 1000cc inj's and a single walbro fuel pump. the rest of the fuel system was oem.this instance alone is enough to prove you dont always need a aftermarket fpr.