i recently changed the head on my 94 civic ex and now it doesnt have any power at low rpm's.it doesnt seem like it is missing because it only does this while driving.once you start off it doesnt start to really pull until about 4,000 to 5,000 rpm.it alsoburning oil.the timing seems right and when you are in neutral and rev it up it is smooth.also the intake isnt as loud as it used to be it almost sounds stock.i really need some help with this so if anyone has an opinion please let me know.thanks

 

How did you check the timing on it? Even if the cam timing is good the distributer timing can mess the response up.

 

no power at low rpm's? This is typical honda behavior, what's the problem?

 

Hold On Not Done Accelterating

 

 

we just marked the original timing when we pulled the head,and it is not throwing any cel's.when we put the new head on we had changed the timing up and it ran like ****,so we went back with the timing from the original head.it ran decent the first day or so but now it just has no power.if it was a sensor then it would throw a cel right?

 

could the timing also be the reason for the oil burning?it only does it at high rpm's but it does it pretty bad.

 

You need to hook up a timing light to set the ignition timing to spec. Follow the procedure described in the diagram.

Oil burning is a separate issue. You may want to do cylinder compression and leak down tests.

 

it seems that i haver spun a rod bearing.now i am trying to find a cheap block.

 

i found a complete motor d15b7 for $100.would it be worth throwing that in?and would my starter,alternator,etc. match up with it???im just trying to for see some of the problems if any i might run into while doing this.i need to get it all dont tomorrow.

 

The transmissions are interchangeable for the d series engines, so that would mean the starter would work. I would bet it's a bolt-in affair. $100 is a good price for a running engine.

 

the guy says that it is running i would really like to bench test,but is there a way to do this with out bolting the tranny on it?also would my z6 work with it also?i would like to keep it v-tec seeing is how i just had my head done .

 

of cours eur hea dwill work but to be honest bro
be careful those b7s have WEAK *** rods ive gone through 3 B7 blocks alredy w my z6 head... all thrown rods havent found any of them haha
your best bet if your staying stock as far as internals is either a z6 or a6 blocks ive ran a z6 head w a b1 b2 b7 a1 a6 z6 and y8 and the best damn ones by far were the a6 and z6 the y8 did good to but i spun 3 bearings it had 13:1 cr probily why ha