Well guys, I followed the instructions as on this link:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ght=set+timing

I torque the jam nuts to 14 ft/lb as suggested. I use the feeler gauges, .012 for the exhaust valves, and .010 for the intake valves.
Instead of removing my upper timing cover, I use the markings on the inside cam wheel which can be seen once the valve cover is removed.
I also use the 19mm wrench to turn the power steering pulley to get the crank to turn. I took out the spark plugs and put the gear into neutral to turn easier.

I took my time and did the job and also replaced my valve cover gasket as well.

I did this in the morning before the car was driven at all.

Before the adjustments, I checked the clearance and all of the exhaust valves were too tight and I had to loosen the jam nuts to adjust to .012. I think all of the intake were within specs but I adjusted them again to make sure they are all the same.

The PROBLEM:
When everything is done, I started the car and valves tick much louder than before. I did the valve adjustments since the previous owner did it over 40k miles ago but the valves were not ticking or barely heard.
I did not let the engine warm up as I was afraid it might damage the engine. I wanted to get more info as to why this is. Thus the valves ticking were much louder when the engine was cold. Never warm up yet after the adjustments.

What do you think would cause this problem? Would loosen of the exhaust valves cause the ticking to be louder? I thought valve adjustments to specs suppose to quiet them down?
The jam nuts were 10mm and I torque them to 14 ft/lb would that be too tight thus causing the louder ticking?

Any help with your experience would be much appreciated.

 

if you turn your wheel to the left, you can get a socket in the hole to turn the crank. i actually use a spark plug socket, it fits, i also leave the timing cover on and just look by way of inner cam gear. remember its 1342 with 1 being closest to cam gear and 4 nearest to dizzy. exhaust side is to front of car and intake is to firewall. make sure u got the gap correctly, did u check a size above and size below? u absoulutely want it to be perfect. i think its ten teeth counting down from the top to both right and left from the top tooth to the cover line. i use that as a way to double check for accuracy.
and remmber that the cam gear only moves 90 degrees which is 1/4 of a turn to get to next cylinder, u prolly did most of this but im just throwing it out there

 

I did all that but using the Power steering pulley to turn the crank. Any ideas as to why it would be much louder?
When it says slight drag it means as you pulling it touches on both sides but can still move freely right?

Thanks.

 

it should be a lil bit of drag

if you use the next up size it should be kinda tough to move freely

 

I am tempted to use the next size down to see if the ticking stops.
Could it be that the exhaust valves were too tight before thus now within specs which are more loose thus the ticking?
I would imagine adjusting the valves to specs would get rid of the ticking in this case it brings back the ticking.

Thanks.

 

Your car should be very quiet if you do a good valve adjustment. If it's louder, then you must have the wrong gap. Odds are that it's too big. You can actually get away with a bigger gap since the specs are slightly bigger than .010 and .012 when converted, but your is probably too big. When I did mine, it was quieter but I decided to go back over them and actually got them quieter the second time around. If you haven't checked your timing with a timing light you should do that too if you can as if your timing is off it can be quite louder than if it's set correctly.

 

I have a timing light with adjustable **** but I never understood or know how to look into that square hole to see the timing adjustment. Which arrow do I look at and a line up?

 

I just adjusted my valves and they are also a little noisier than before. But I removed about a baseball sized ball of sludge from the rockers and head that was probably acting as sound insulation.

 

I'll play dumb. I think the intake are .12~.17 mm or .005~.007 inches? So if you used .010 inch for the intake then I'm with "holmesmanny" that the intake is too large. In my spec's the intake is .12~.17mm or .005~.007?

 

Which car are you referring to? The sticker under my car says:
-Intake 0.26mm or .010 inch
-Exhaust 0.30mm or .012 inch.

Not sure which car you referring to. Setting the valves too tight could burn them.

I adjusted my valves today to 0.009 for the intake and 0.011 for the exhaust valves with each set of 2 valves at a time with the base circle on the rocker arms.

Thanks.

 

My bad. I was looking at the 88-90 Prelude (SOHC), turn the page in the book and the 90-91 Accord is .009~.011 inch.

 

did u make sure the cam lobe was pointing 180 dg the other way from the rocker arm?

 

The ticking noise comes from the cam lobe hitting the rocker arm. Less clearance means the cam lobe contacts the rocker arm gently. This creates a fainter ticking or no ticking at all. If there is no clearance the valves can burn. Ticking can be a good sign.

If the valves were tight before the procedure you should definately hear them get louder as you loosen them to specification. If the valve clearance is in specification then whatever noise you hear is perfectly normal.

 

Yes. The cam lobe is 180 dg away from the rocker arm which means the rocker arm touching that of the base circle.

 

Hey I had this same problem with a 1990 accord LX. first time I did it they were too loose. second time i made sure they were exactly in spec, and although the valves aren't offensively louder, they are noticeably louder!

How did it go using .009 and .011???????????

is this thread dead ??????


thanks!: