Frase_civic

Hey guys, going to adjust my valves in a few days when its nice out. have a pretty good idea of how to do it. Remove valve cover and plugs, Turn the crank to TDC to adjust #1 cylinder... then adjust the rest in firing order by rotating the crank counter clockwise. I have a few specific questions before starting and if you have any tips that would be really great to. Ill get some pics along the way to post to the thread for other people interested in adjusting there valves. (im sure theres others but ill try to make this as easy as possible for beginners like myself)

So to my questions, is there a specific order while adjusting cylinder one? like both exhaust valves than intake valves starting at the timing belt side? Or does it not matter at all? Also I have read about specific torque, but from the videos and pictures I have seen all they do it crack the lash nut, adjust the lash to snug but not overkill tight to the feeler gauge, then hold the lash in place with a flat head and tighten the lash bolt with a 10mm wrench.... I didn't see any torque wrenches involved? (Or am I missing something) Also Should i keep the lash bolt as close to tight as possible while adjusting the lash to eliminate error while tightening the lash bolt after adjustment (because there is a good chance i may move the lash accidentally while trying to hold it in place with a flat head) Also while the valve cover is off is there any other maintenance to address?

Also one more thing to add.... my engine has 197,00 km's on it, should I adjust to honda specifications or adjust further to compensate for cam lobe wear?

Thanks in advance, and like i said if there is anything I haven't mentioned that I should know about please give a heads up

cheers!

Former User

Adjustment order doesn't matter.

Torque the bolts to 13-ft-lbs, unless you can judge this tension without a torque wrench.

00_EKHatch

.005 on the intake
.007 on the exhaust

Do not over tighten the lock nuts. And double check each adjustment you make before moving to the next set of valves, and take your time. This might help.

Frase_civic

How do you torque the lash bolts while holding the lash in place? Hand snug the bolts with the wrench while keeping the lash steady with the flat head, than adjust the torque after wards with a torque wrench?

Thanks

Frase_civic

Thanks for that diagram, already printed it out. From what I have read the gaps are .006-.007 intake .007-.008 exhaust?

Former User

Yes, though for the first step I use a special tool:

http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648822-Valve-Adjustment-Engines/dp/B0002Q8TT6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1335155639&sr=8-6

morbius18

I use a set of channel locks and a small flat head screwdriver. Loosen the nut with the 10mm socket, clamp the channel lock on the nut and adjust the lash with the screwdriver. Problem with this method is that it slightly tightens the lash when tightening the bolt up when finished. I leave the lash slightly loose on the feeler gauge, remove the channel locks, then tighten the nut bak up with the socket. Double check the lash to make sure it is still in specs.
Adapt and overcome.

Frase_civic

Might have to pick one of those bad boys up, just make sures its a 10mm head right? Also can you confirm the tolerances? My understanding is that its .006-.007 intake .007-.008 exhaust? If so would you recommend going low on intake and high on exhuast? Or low on both? Or what?

Thanks!

Former User

Correct. I usually adjust to midpoint.

Frase_civic

Thanks, ill update the thread once I get it done. Also a picture of a freshly painted valve cover.

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

or you could get one of these simple to use and dam good

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/120867653...84.m1439.l2649

offspringy

Did you do the adjustment yet?

I have the tool mentioned above im just building up the courage to go out and do it lol