so i have a 97 bb6 with the h22a4....and like all others i hit 1k on the moter and started burning oil.... so i want to go thru th whole engine and have it almost all figured out.. except thies dame sleeves some ppl say i can and others say i cant hone or bore them... others say they dont even com out... just neeed to know... wtf i can and cant to and y the f#$% did honda do this to this awsome engine... thnks

 

honda did it because the sleeves thereselves are strong as hell, just not compatible with forged products besides mahle gold pistons(maybe some others to), they can be honed and bored it just takes different tools and angles to do it.

 

yea the FRM sleeves are pretty strong but it will tear up forged pistons baad. If you sleeve the motor, honestly id keep it at stock bore size if your turboing, since the walls are already pretty thin and keeping stock bore will be stronger unless your looking to make 550 and over theres no point in going over 87mm bore. FRM does consume a bit of oil but you say its burning oil.. which makes it sound a little worse... after 3k miles of hard driving my h22 burns like...a quarter of quart of oil. its a fresh jdm swap 28k miles tho.. my very first motor, h23 with around 200k miles burnt about half a quart every oil change, 3k miles after hard driving.

 

So you have an H22A4 with 1,000 miles on it? That is what "1k" stands for.

I'm almost certain you meant 100k (100,000 miles).

 

Jun makes a piston that will fit FRM

 

They did it for a reason, because it's better than iron. The NSX and S2000 have the same material.

 

Service Bulletin: SB618958 #18939

1990-2001 Prelude – Honing Fiber Reinforced Metal (FRM) cylinders 2000-01 S2000

All S2000 and 1990 and later VTEC and SI Preludes have Fiber-Reinforced Metal (FRM) cylinder liners. FRM honing is not required unless the cylinder has deep vertical scratches that run the length of the bore. Cylinders with light colored spots or flaking cannot be corrected by honing and must be replaced.

To hone FRM liners, perform the following:
· Use a rigid hone (not a ball hone) with GC-600-J or finer stones for nonferrous
metals. The honing pressure should be 200-300 kPa (2-3 kg-cm2, 29-43 psi).
· Use an oil type honing oil.
· Hone at 45-50 rpm to a 60 degree-crosshatch pattern.
· Do not stroke the hone more than 20 cycles.
· After honing, thoroughly clean the engine block of all metal particles by
washing with hot soapy water, then dry and oil them immediately. Never use
solvent; it will only redistribute the grit.
· Some light vertical scoring and scratching is acceptable if it isn’t deep enough
to catch your fingernail, and doesn’t run the full length of the bore. (rm,sn)