I was driving my car one day and decided to redline it in 2nd and 3rd gear.
Shortly after the check engine light came on.
Ran the code and it was code 1 o2 sensor.So I bought a new o2 sensor and the light was gone.Rode around and it came back on.
So I checked the wiring and everything looked good,so I started troubleshooting.
Found out the yel/blk wire in the o2 harness has 12v when the ignition switch is on but the orange/blk wire doesn't have a ground.Followed the troubleshooting directions and tested the orange/blk wire with a black wire in the ecu harness and there was power,which according to the troubleshooting page means the ecu is the problem.

The cel comes and goes but it is normally on.Does this sound like its the ecu?
Can I get the ecu repaired or does it have to be replaced?

D15B jdm vtec engine
p08 automatic ecu running on manual tranny
autozone o2 sensor for d15 non vtec(I got it because it was the cheapest they had but its for a non vtec d15,dont know if that matters)

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=282472_0_0_

 

Is the ECU converted to manual?

 

I installed a resistor in the ecu to take away the cels for the missing automatic components.
That's all you have to do to convert it right?

 

Your O2 sensor has 4 wires:
-Yel/Blk and Orn/Blk for the O2 sensor heater element
-Wht and Grn/Wht for the O2 sensor itself

Code 1 indicates a problem with the O2 sensor itself not the heater element. Your voltage tests on the Yel/Blk and Orn/Blk wires have nothing to do with code 1 because these wires are for the heater element.

What you need to do is:
1) Test the Wht wire that runs between the O2 sensor plug (wire harness side) and terminal D14 in the ECU connector for an open or short.

2) Test the Grn/Wht wire that runs between the O2 sensor plug (wire harness side) and terminal D22 in the ECU connector for an open.

 

I think I found the problem.
After troubleshooting I opened the ecu and took a close look.Here's what I found:

At the bottom of the capacitor(or whatever it is) it's all corroded and one of the legs is broken off.
I have a spare ek civic ecu for parts that has a similar capacitor:

The po8 one reads:Acura 33uF 35v
The ek ecu one reads:33uF 35v A9620 105 deg. C

The only big difference I see is the po8 one is blue and the uk one is brown.
Could I use it?

 

My vote is new ECU. But if the part numbers don't match, I'd say their different. -Later, BR

 

I can't afford to get another ecu right now though.
I put in the capacitor from the ek ecu and I have the same problem.

Is there a place I can take my ecu to be repaired?

 

Try a junkyard. ECU's can be found pretty cheap. Getting one repaired I'd imagine would be roughly the same. But make sure you do the correct testing first. I don't think an ECU would just "go bad" after driving. Have you tried the test posted above yet? -Later, BR

 

if you installed a resistor to convert it to manual than you can certainly install a new capacitor,

find another 33uf 35v capacitor, most likely radioshack, and do that ***** effer