My 07 EX has about 30K on it, and I'm replacing all the brakes.

Front went fine (except when I bent a caliper pin), but I cannot get the rear caliper pistons to compress so that I can get the new pads on. I

I've tried a regular caliper tool and nearly stripped it out, I even buckled down with big C clamps to no avail.

The parking brake is off, and I even released the tension on the brake cable.

What else can I do?

 

you need to buy or rent the proper tool. most rear honda calipers have the parking brake integrated into the caliper so you have to screw the piston in (you cannot just compress them with a c-clamp).

http://www.harborfreight.com/18-piec...kit-97143.html

 

Ahhh, I wondered how they self adjusted. Thanks for that!

 

OP: you should be able to get a tool, most commonly referred to as a caliper cube, at sears or your local hardware store. Its shaped like a cube and has an adapter for a 3/8" ratchet. This tool will allow you to press and rotate the piston simultaneosly for effective and successful rear brake pad replacement

EDIT: see picture.. just an alternative to that whole kit posted above ^^

 

just get a big flathead screwdriver and twist the caliper to the right. it threads back in and thats it. thats what i did on mine. took me 10 minutes to do both sides.

 

Thanks for those tips. I had subscribed to the Helm site for the online manual, and nowhere did I see anything about "screwing in" the rear caliper piston.

I suppose that's to be expected... if you want to drop your oil pan in a CRX, it requires referencing 4 or 5 different sections of the FSM!

 

I picked up a brake caliper tool kit from Harbor freight Tools that has this piston adjusting adapter for like 20 bucks...............

 

You shouldn't have to exert enough force to bend that pin. Are you opening the bleed screw, compressing the piston, then quickly closing the bleed screw?

Also, if you don't lube those pins your caliper will bind when the piston pushes the pad. Causing less braking power, grinding noises, possible warped rotor, possible caliper failure, and this: http://www.civicforums.com/forums/18...ew-brakes.html

 

I had a big C clamp on the caliper holding it down while I compressed the opposite caliper - this way the brake fluid doesn't push out the other caliper, it just feeds back to the reservoir.

However, when i turned the wheel to get to the bolts on the other caliper, I pushed the clamp into the wheel well, which bent the soft upper caliper pin.

And yes, I did re-lube it before I put the new one in.

 

you do not need to worry about brake fluid shooting out of the reservoir if you compress the piston at slow enough rate.

i would never open the bleed screw as lazlong said unless i placed a hose over the screw. if you just open the screw without placing a hose over it there is a possibility of air getting into the line and obviously air in your brake line is not good. putting a hose over the screw allows you to release the pressure while at the same time preventing air from getting into your line.

when doing the rears, you should get the special tool. you can use the cube one as pointed out above, but there are other tools that can be used.