All motor gsr won't rev at all after rebuild
Yesterday I just finished one of my project's and it won't let me rev everytime I try to rev it seems like it is going to die and the revs keep going from 1000 to 1250 and if I try to rev it dies. I need some help to figure this out because I am stumpped.
Check to make sure the TPS and MAP sensor wires are not swapped. They are both in the same location and use the same style of plug. When you swap MAP and TPS the TPS voltage is too high which causes it to idle up and down like that, as well as MAP voltage is wrong which will cause it to want to die off as soon as you give it throttle.
It is a stock rebuild with king bearings and npr rings, arp head studs and full cleaning of the engine and all new gaskets, act clutch, b&m fpr, ebay 4-1 header 2.25 inch straight piping to a ebay fart can, ebay intake, p28 chipped ecu from handcommand with pherable custom tune on the chip and b&m gauge that's my set up also it is a usdm b18c1
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did you check your Tps and MAP sensor plugs to make sure they weren't swapped like Brian suggested? If your belt is "hopping" line everything up and check to make sure your tensioner is properly adjusted. Are your cam gears lined up? Do you have any check engine lights on?
No check engine lights I will go and try swapping my sensor plugs and how do I know if the belt is properly tensioned
mine didnt throw a code when i had the tps and map plugs switched. try it. and if it jumps itself on idle then you have either a vacuum leak or tps needs adjusted and if belt is hopping make sure its still top dead center and tighten it correctly
How about you tell us what you have tried so far so we can narrow down what to look for. Sitting on your computer asking for help but not giving us any information on what you're doing isn't helping anyone.
I just took off the throttle body and noticed that the tps sensor is cracked so I will switch with one of my spare tps sensors and I noticed that the motor is dripping a little oil from the back of the motor I think I know where it is coming from because their is no clamp on one of the hoses and I think that is the one and also do all the hoses on the back of the block have to have the clamps on because it is really hard to get back their with big hands if you know what I mean
A cracked TPS can certainly cause that problem. All hoses typically have clamps on them since they are all coolant lines that become pressurised once the car heats up. There are no oil hoses back there so if you have an oil leak, it may be something more serious/harder to fix.
but cant oil leak from where you put the oil filter because their are 2 nipples their and don't the clamps have to be on their also don't the clamps have to be on all of the because like you said when you turn on the motor their can be a leak and I notices that it was oil and coolant so it was probably from one of the coolant lines?
Also do you guys think that it is a good idea to get a chip for my car for my application is a good idea because I got one from pherable and already put in the chip that is what the car is running on also I was wondering if pherable is a good place to get those chips I heard they are really reputable at tuning so that's why I went their my second choice would have been xenocron or jk-tuning or map performance.
Don't buy a chip for your setup, buy a legit Engine Management Unit.
Also, if your IACV, TPS, or Map Sensor get switched up, it can send a reverse polarity back to your ECU and cause damage to it. I had my IACV and another switch, can't remember what it was, but when I took my ECU to InlinePro to get Hondata S300, they opened it right up and showed me where it burned the ECU. I was lucky it was just a resistor that got burned up.
Also, if your IACV, TPS, or Map Sensor get switched up, it can send a reverse polarity back to your ECU and cause damage to it. I had my IACV and another switch, can't remember what it was, but when I took my ECU to InlinePro to get Hondata S300, they opened it right up and showed me where it burned the ECU. I was lucky it was just a resistor that got burned up.
Check to make sure the TPS and MAP sensor wires are not swapped. They are both in the same location and use the same style of plug. When you swap MAP and TPS the TPS voltage is too high which causes it to idle up and down like that, as well as MAP voltage is wrong which will cause it to want to die off as soon as you give it throttle.
what do you mean waves hand... im guilty, also I just put a different tps sensor I am going to see how it runs now?
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