I'm just wondering, do i have to take the oil pan off to replace the rear main seal or is there a way that I change it with out doing that?

 

nope take it off

 

rear main seal...the one behind the flywheel? If that's the one, it means your pulling your tranny, then the clutch!!

 

I'm in the middle of doing my clutch so I might as well do the seal while i have it apart.

Found this: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...rear+main+seal

seals out now to get the new one in.

 

buy oem on that seal, it's one i would NOT cheap out on

 

felpro

 

You can replace it without removing the rear main seal housing but you have to be VERY careful. It's much easier if you remove the pan and then the housing, but if you have a steady hand and AVOID scratching your crank you can pry it out with a flat head screwdriver. I've actually used a pick/scribe set to remove my buddy's one time, just hooked it and yanked it right out. And I'm with "Deetz" on this, OEM for the crucial and internal gaskets/seals is the only way I go.

 

you can unthread the studs (by double nutting it) on the rear main seal housing to the oil pan so you can remove it. this is what i did to replace mine without pulling the pan. of course i pulled the motor outside the car to do this to make this much easier.

 

I was careful and gently pried the seal out with a flathead. Lubed the inside of the new felpro seal and the crank with bushing lube and coated the outside of the seal with some liquid gasket. I used the old seal as a buffer and placed it over the new seal and tapped it in place with a hammer. I wasn't sure how deep to tap in the new seal so I just tapped it in just past the block far enough so the there's a small lip all the way around. This is the part I'd like to ask about. How far should I tap it in? Should I keep going until the seal stops or can you tap it in too far? I don't get the flywheel back from the machine shop until this afternoon so I have until then to get it sorted out. The seal looked good, there's no folds and looks pretty equal all the way around.

 

^^ You are crazy not to use an oem seal, they don't even cost very much!!

 

i used a fel-pro as well with no problems and inserted it the way he did with the seal slightly in leaving alil lip and used gasket maker on the outside of it as well. make sure the ring to hold the lip around the crankshaft does not come out as your installing or u will have to do it again.

 

Yup, that's me. They call me crazy Steve specifically because i use felpro gaskets and seals. I like to live on the edge man! I plan on redoing the syncros in a month or two anyway so if a problem arises, I can sort it out soon enough.

 

Alright I got the new seal in as well as the new clutch and put everything back together. Drove it around the block and let it idle for about 10 minutes and no leaks so far!!!

 

A couple years ago, i flew out of town to save a crx which needed a head gasket job. Once i got there, i was strapped for time with no oem parts for a few days being i was in a town. So i cheap'd out and bought Fel Pro gaskets from some no name auto parts shop.

The seals work, and yeah, they aren't going to leak right away, otherwise Fel Pro would not be in business BUT, the seals themselves were definitely of a lesser quality and did not fit as nicely! I do not recommend them

 

I am leaking out of the drivers side output shaft seal but I have a feeling that was my install error.